Ace-Garageguy

Tattoo You is a 1981 Stones album.

I don't know what nominal AWG it is, but the stuff in the photo mics out to .019", and looks good for late-model OEM or performance wire. For early OEM wires, I'll use something like .013". Not every kit cap can be drilled, of course. Some are just too small, not scaled correctly, or are too tapered or blobular.

Consternation...wasn't that a kind of big prop plane?

All I can suggest is try to shoot your important color coats when there's no wind. I'll usually shoot several coats of lacquer color, letting it flash between. If anything gets in the first coats, it's not a problem to sand it out prior to the last wet coat(s). Primers always get sanded anyway, so no worries there. Clears are the worst, as trash will often still show after sanding and polishing. Maybe...you could try putting down some kind of drop cloth, and do your last color coats in the bathroom with the fan running?

I shoot mostly lacquer, so it dries "dust free" in less than a minute, usually. Lots to be said for shooting lacquer...and if a little trash does get in it, it's usually pretty easy to sand and polish out. Occasionally I'll need something to stay enamel-glossy, like wheels, and I'll take them inside as soon as they're covered...holding them wet-side down so stuff doesn't fall in the wet paint. Bugs rarely fly up from under something, too. This wheel was shot outside with Testors enamel. No trash in the paint, just a few dust specks I should have blown off before taking the photo.

Anthem in your panthem will make you danthem.

I just hold whatever it is in a gloved hand, and spray away.

Most helpful to avoid the "hair part" or "spider" looking wiring as well. Getting your wires at least close to scale diameter for the application helps too. Many otherwise nice engines are spoiled with wires the scale diameter of garden hose.

I still mostly drill my own caps, and make distributor bodies from styrene or aluminum stock (photo below). Otherwise, I prefer the molded-hole resin units from R&M. Photo below shows completed kit cap with fabbed body, and drilled and "spot-faced" holes in the head for plug wires.

I must just have a charmed life. I've been getting away with painting mostly outside, bug-and-dirt-free for, like, 60 years.

Smoke-and-mirrors regarding the inflation numbers... with the bull always "excluding food and energy". Really? Food and energy is where most people really feel the hit.

Yeah, I considered buying it for the body to restore a built-up, but as I have a complete virgin kit, I'll save the money and just paint the resto all over. EDIT: Ummm...oops. Kinda looks like we're hijacking Gramps's guild thread. Sorry.

Used tires, as in low-mileage-takeoffs, can save you a whole lot of money.

You just gotta love that "looks to be complete" in the listing. There's no wheels, no exhaust system, apparently no chrome tree whatsoever (which includes much of the suspension, the gearbox, radiator, etc.). What a deal.

"Then" is not interchangeable with "than", but some folks apparently didn't get the memo.

Achieving complex shapes is just a matter of trial and error as you learn, using whatever works. Carving rough shapes with various X-Acto blades, or cutting shapes into filler spreaders you drag along the work area to get an initial form works well. And you can scrape shapes and lines into plastic using woodworking chisels. As the shaping progresses, I'll use needle and riffler files, as well as sandpaper folded over to get a sharp edge, sandpaper glued to "sticks" or wrapped around dowels, nail files, etc.

The Revell Buick nailhead stand-alone parts pack usually brings pretty crazy money these days, so I'd kinda think it'd be a quick seller, at least initially. As stated above, it is based on tooling shared with the Ivo kit, but unfortunately can't be built stock without bashing it with parts from the Revell '30 Ford kits (entirely different engine tooling with inaccurate exhaust port spacing, but including a stock timing cover and carbed intake manifold). And neither engine has stock valve covers, but R&M to the rescue in resin.

Here's two. You have to be careful buying though, as even the ones listed as "complete" have often been cherry-picked...with the sellers covering themselves saying "I don't know anything about models, so check the photos for what's included". And a further FYI: the lower kit showing the multiple other engines does not in fact contain six additional engines, but only 4 engines with optional equipment. The original release usually goes for stupid money, but you can check to be sure any of the above kits you might stumble across contain this specific Allison parts tree.

All the above...and I really like the diamond-plate partial floor. I can't count the number of times I've seen a "repair" like that on a real car.

Very nice. A real shame this car was never put into production, IMHO.

PM'd

Always interesting to see different renditions of the (in)famous J-car.

Verb conjugation can give non-native-speakers of any language fits.

It seems as though you may have misunderstood what I said. There is NO PROBLEM. As others have said, welcome.

Forum or aginum, thass wut sports team fans are.