Ace-Garageguy

No mystery here. The solvents in the 2K re-wetted the metallic lacquer underneath, allowing the metallic particles to fall over into the pigmented clear carrier, thus losing their reflectivity and causing local dark blotches. Either (1) the Nason 2K is just too "hot" to be used over the Testors lacquer, or 2) the 2K was applied way too wet, attempting to get it to flow out glossy, or 3) the application of the clear OR the green was uneven and too heavy in only the areas where the dark streaks appeared (which is what I suspect), or 4) the green just wasn't sufficiently dry prior to shooting the clear. If you've used this particular combination of products before with no problems, it's an application issue with this particular job. If you have NOT used this combination of materials before, this is why we continually preach "test any new combination of materials, or any change in technique, on something you don't care about BEFORE you paint a good model". This is also the reason we preach the wisdom of using products that are designed to work together. Big-car metallic basecoats are specifically designed to NOT re-wet and go mottly when urethane clears are applied over them, but without testing the Nason clear sufficiently over the Testors metallic lacquer basecoat, things like this can happen. A good primer under everything, over properly prepared plastic, MAY OR MAY NOT have an effect on the stability of the green metallic, but without testing, you're playing Russian roulette with any paint job.

And any meeting or convention facility where "climate change" is on the agenda...plus the exhausts from all the luxo private jets that fly to them... EDIT: Too bad hypocrisy can't be tapped as an energy source too. We'd be set to the end of time.

STORY HERE: https://www.sae.org/news/2022/12/infinium-electrofuel

I've been looking for beneficiaries who would want my stuff...and are in a position to come get it... in the event of my untimely demise: models, real-car parts, real cars, machine tools and hand tools, etc.

11,000 Ford owners on the waiting list for TCMs, some with cars out of service for over a year, and scalpers offering them for $1000+. But wait...there's a cost-effective ($300) solution. STORY HERE (WARNING: requires reading)... https://www.sae.org/news/2022/12/tcm-supply-woes EDIT: The collision repair shop I work with has ongoing "supply chain" issues, and all manner of other industry-wide incompetence that has become commonplace in the last few years.

Found this:

It's about 5.3 imperial ounces, still used in the UK and Canada. And yes, it's 5.07 in US ounces.

Asking for help occasionally is fine, and shows you're aware of what you don't know, or what you're physically incapable of doing; asking for help constantly probably means you're just lazy.

Purty...

That's the way I look at it. Plenty to do well into the future, no time for this "dying" stuff.

A lot of times I've thought I was done, but then I'll see a build here that triggers an interest in something I hadn't really wanted previously. Off down the internet rabbit hole, I find something else really really cool, then come across a real car build (or something historic) that triggers yet another new interest, research, buy more, see something, rinse, repeat...endlessly. For instance: a book on the McLaren sports racing cars I hadn't opened in the two years since I got it (finally read it over this Christmas) made me want to do a series of as many of the McLaren sports racers in 1/25 or 1/24 as I could find. So... Earlier, a build here of the Lola Mk6 GT precursor to the GT40 got me going on doing both roadgoing and racing versions of the Lola, and more research turned up several versions of the GT40 I was previously unaware of, so I had to get more GT40 kits, and the Porsche 917 series I'd started led to the 910 and 908 and 906 (I already had a bunch of 904s)...etc. But really, I'm just nuts.

I'm thinking very careful pre-fitting of bumpers or whatever you want to use this stuff on (make sure wheels push easily into tires, etc.), then spray 'em, let 'em dry a couple days, and assemble with gloves on to prevent fingerprinting...something like the light cotton ones that come with higher-end diecasts, or possibly latex or vinyl.

About 5.3. A 3.5 oz. (100 mL) can of SpazStix I have here was $13 a few years back, so the price for the new Revell stuff doesn't seem too out of line to me...

"Top o' the mornin' to ya'" chirped the wee leprechaun.

Clapboard...wasn't that the guitar player from Cream?

Or a piece of toast covered in peanut butter.

Yeah, me too.

Excellent reason to get a bigger house.

Thank you, sir! What with the Rover V8 being based on the old GM 215 alloy V8, it's almost a natural for one to find its way into a Chevette...and the idea of having a UK-style hot rod has definite appeal.

Yup. Yup, yup...except for a few hundred bucks worth of aftermarket stuff to fill the empty spaces between the kit boxes.

Weekly...

Mine's pretty big, certainly more than I can get to in 20+ years...but I've heard it's not the size that matters so much, but what you can do with it.

This gets more interesting all the time. I just recalled I also have a 5-speed manual gearbox out of a TR-8 that needs an input shaft bearing and maybe synchros. It has a bellhousing that should bolt to the Rover engine. If I remember correctly, the US Chevette has a weird torque-tube rear end, but... Hmmmmmm...

Status seekers tend to buy things based on cost and how envious they think their neighbors and peers will be, often knowing nothing about what they're buying...like the folks who used to routinely stuff Porsches backwards into fixed objects, because they believed that if you had money, you didn't need to waste time learning to drive a rear-engined car.

Competence in just about every field is in increasingly short supply, and when Atlas gets done shrugging...oh baby.