Ace-Garageguy

Morning coffee is the main reason I get up.

Yeah, I'd buy a Vector kit. I really had high hopes for that company, but...

Lacking knowledge rarely stops anyone from having an opinion.

I find it works for some things, not so hot for others. Here's some more opinions... https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/mek-substitute-12194662 https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/mek-substitute-12189588 You can still get real MEK (the Weld-On products like 2354, or the old standby #3 and #4...now labeled SciGrip) online and shipped with no crazy-expensive hazmat shipping if you shop around, and you may be able to buy it from a local shop that fabricates plastic signs or displays. EDIT: A pint of the stuff runs about $30 shipped to your door now, higher that it was in the old hardware-store days, but still way cheaper than buying little bottles at the "hobby shop".

Know what you know, know and admit to yourself what you don't know, and try to avoid becoming a bloviating "expert" after you read the first answer Google vomits up, but about which you have no other knowledge.

What choo talkin' 'bout, Willis?

Cool trick. Thanks.

The type 2 bus used an "upright" fan style, like the Bug. The type 3, or "pancake" engine, would be the hot setup. Same basic guts as the Bug / bus engines, but with a crank-mounted fan and low-profile cooling sheetmetal. Unfortunately, none are available in 1/24-1-25 scale (AFAIK).

Reno has been having much diminished warbird turnouts over the past few years too. Hard to believe you could buy a fully functional WW II surplus fighter after the war for about the cost of a 10-year old Toyota today. B-17s were sold out of Kingman, Az. for the value of the fuel in their tanks in some cases, then cut up and melted down for scrap on the spot.

Here's a whole engine and gearbox with a 911 style fan... https://www.ebay.com/itm/363951405490?hash=item54bd31b9b2:g:aKoAAOSwd01i~5tB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoFXAWGb56V3Ajkkj%2BXAp37Zn%2FVHMaHbjsaGrIzfWZvR3jeLc64OhMiCaOGlnKZmel4IWPdQMxs%2BxS2UjuJcb1gp9AcAqUW7xA5hcBX1%2BjSNBOjZL%2BNkx4sBRGmjVnAa0L6l5FbPzs8fX7Vdl21YUqOMDzjMjM%2FwFE4YQUIKJ137P%2FOS%2FSncer%2FbZkufYCqq%2BFWwAZBxITbpGN7%2FvYUPi91Q%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6jFmOOPYQ

Where did all the Krylon go, long time passing? Where did all the Krylon go, long time ago? Where did all the Krylon go? Taggers sprayed 'em, doncha know? When will they ever learn? When will they ev--er learn?

Yup, real nice work on the VWs, indeed. You should post some of your non-car stuff on the "All the Rest" part of the board too. And welcome.

There's also a military "Scorpion" buggy from Chenowth...

Actually, it was Meyers (who made the Manx etc.) and as it wasn't street legal, they called it Tow'd...a play on words. There were also lotsa other tube-frame sand buggy manufacturers. Below are two from Chenowth.

Posted by a friend elsewhere...

I covered that under 3) Absolute incompetence on the part of the P-63 pilot. Incompetence would include recklessness. A competent pilot is not reckless. But I really have to tell you...the guys who fly these things are very rarely hot-dogging idiots who mindlessly endanger lives and irreplaceable machinery. And the P-63 pilot is just as dead as the crew of the 17, his friends and family are just as distraught, and a medical event causing unconsciousness would appear exactly as this does. My own father died instantly from a massive heart attack, with no warning, while sitting in a friend's car. So out of simple human decency, it might be good to wait for the investigation to play out. And just FYI...two or more airplanes are "AIRCRAFT", no "S".

Model railroad stripe decals made for HO scale might work for you... https://www.hobbylinc.com/lines-stripes-model-railroad-decals https://www.hobbylinc.com/woodland-gold-stripes-010,-1:64,-022,-1:32,-3:64-wide-model-railroad-scenery-mg761 NOTE: Smallest actual line thickness is .010", which would be a 1/4 inch stripe on a real car (if you're working in 1/25 scale).

YUM !!! Fried bologna and old paint sammiges.

She's going to be a little lower than what I'm showing in that last shot, just enough height to allow the fronts to steer...which is still a good bit taller than stock.

Medicine is something I try to avoid, unless it's absolutely necessary for short-term survival.

Smallblock Chebbys can use a variety of mounts too, like this example... ...or this fabbed crossmember that picks up the block-side style mounts... ...or another option for mounting to the front face of the block... ...or the SBC mount that goes under the water pump on some early Corvettes...

This is the hot setup, and pretty much exactly how you do it in a real car...except for the Silly Putty. Mocking up the engine exactly where you want it to go is critical, taking into consideration things like overall height, hood and firewall clearance, the eventual angle the trans tailshaft will make so you can hit the diff with the driveshaft (and a reasonable pinion angle), etc. On cars with open hood sides, I'll usually try to get the bottoms of the heads parallel with the tops of the frame rails too, for aesthetic reasons. I also find it's helpful, on real cars as well as models, to mock up the mounts in cardboard first, get them to fit dead-on, then just copy the mockups in styrene or steel. Saves time and material.