Ace-Garageguy

I work with three guys who are extremely competent...at pretty much everything they do. We spent about 15 minutes today recounting the rare instances when each of us has encountered other folks who actually do their jobs well (really, to a level that used to be taken as average). We all realized at the same moment we were taking time out to recount interactions with people who do what's expected of them for the money they're paid, as opposed to our constant harping on slackers, morons, and the legion of I-just-don't-care. Because it's so unusual these days...see? And we all walked away shaking our heads about the way things are today.

^^^ You gotta love the copywriter: "gleaming bullet wheels". I guess spellcheck hasn't heard of billet.

I know what you mean. You've got me on the hunt for the elusive B hardtop now. Thanks for the shot of the catalog list inside the box, too. Apparently the unicorn is a real animal after all. Your models do look great, by the way. Certainly an inspiration to me to build a few when I have more time.

Day-yam. 3d printing? We don' need no stinkin' 3D printing.

Is it supposedly a one-piece body, and how old are we talking about? As an aside, back in the '70s I had a gorgeous rust-free Karmann B hardtop shell (T5), acquired with no engine or gearbox. The plan was to swap all the pristine SC guts from a "restored" but structurally ruined SC cab, but the SC burned to the ground when a moron was working on it, and I lost the hardtop body due to the machinations of an unscrupulous business partner. The T5 started life as a cabriolet, with the rounded hood of the 356A and B series cars, while the T6 was built on a dedicated line, and used the slightly squared off hood like the C series. I'd kinda like to build a model of what might have been...so if there's a true T5 kit floating around out there, I'm quite interested.

Fujimi EM 34 is a Hartge BMW 6-series This one, which appears in your stash photo, EM 31 or 33, is essentially a cab kit with a clear roof that has to be worked in and painted. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353513819084 Here's a Super 90 custom conversion built from a cabriolet: https://www.modellversium.de/galerie/12-autos/8761-porsche-356-b-super-90-hardtop-coupe-fujimi.html

Among others... https://www.tedsmodelingmarketplace.com/windshield-wipers-multi-piece-1-24-1-25/ and... https://www.modelcargarage.com/eshop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=116

Mr. Cunningham did all the CAD work on those himself, starting from scratch. I'll ask if the files will be available.

Indeed. This is from about 200BC:

Excellent point, especially in light of the fact that the huge transformers used in the power distribution grid are not widely stockpiled, in many cases take a 6-month or more lead time from order to delivery, and are in large part MADE IN CHINA.

Yes, Toyota has made significant progress into solving the problems with hydrogen-fueled IC engines. They have expressed their idea that it's just stupid to abandon the IC engine, with 100+ years of cumulative knowledge concerning the powerplants. Another part of the motivation is protecting jobs of a significant sector of Japan's domestic workforce. Honda has also done much work on gaseous-fueled IC engines, with their natural-gas-powered IC vehicles in California being among the "cleanest" on the planet. And a European manufacturer has developed a hydrogen-burning truck/bus diesel engine that achieves power, torque, and fuel economy competitive with oil-burners. Again, this is not to say that electrics have no place in a rational surface propulsion mix. Electrics are a good solution for lots of vehicle users. But banking 100% on electrics is moronic.

You're very welcome.

In the only Revellogram 427 Cobra I still have here... ...the oil pan, though incorrectly modeled, represents a steel wet-sump pan, probably built by Aviaid. The bungs on the end of the pan could conceivably be used as scavenge ports for a dry-sump application too. EDIT: Though in practice, I don't know if it was ever done. EDIT 2: The "real" dry sump pan is an entirely different animal, with a dedicated front cover:

Surely one of the best looking cars ever built, and your model does it justice. Great work on that pillar save too.

You are, of course, correct, sir. But I wasn't so much responding to your comment as reinforcing it for the benefit of those who seem to think this tech is (or should be) "point and shoot", with very little effort or even knowledge on the part of the modeler. In my own experience, everything worth doing has in fact taken a considerable amount of work to master. 3D printing is, in the end, probably no different.

Yes sir, and of course those are your photos I copied to this thread, as I don't think most members here fully realize just what can be accomplished with the technology NOW, for reasonable money and some effort.

I MIGHT have a Revellogram Cobra still here (I've already moved many kits out West). If so, I'll look to see what pan is represented.

The current ace-number-one-3D-printing-wizard, for my money, is ACME's own Bill Cunningham. His work is simply spectacular, and has to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. Every part he printed for these 1/24 scale models, including 1mm thick body panels, engines, Weber carbs, wire wheels, and even the "tube" frames, was first designed in CAD. EDIT: According to my current understanding, the smaller parts (not the bodies and frames) can be printed with a liquid-resin / UV-curing machine that can currently be had for about $150. Prices continue to come down as resolution improves. Results like this take some serious effort and commitment, but in my mind, they're worth every minute spent learning the skills.

The stock wet-sump Ford FE engine (including the 427) has a cast aluminum oil filter adapter bolted to the side of the block. A remote filter for a wet-sump can be mounted using a different adapter, with hose outlet and inlet fittings instead of the spin-on filter boss. A typical setup looks like this. The "device" relocates the filter, but the oil is still filled through the valve cover. Alternatively, the block-mounted filter can be retained, with additional plumbing for an oil cooler. A remote-mounted filter can also be plumbed to accommodate a cooler.

I would, but they're in the 1/2 of my model stuff I've already moved West, and I'm currently back East.

Steve's correct on all counts. His work speaks for itself. Blue tape is designed primarily for water base paints on things like walls, where its relatively poor adhesion helps prevent it from tearing poorly adhered undercoats off the surface. Regular masking tape isn't designed to do crisp edges. ----------------------------------------------------- One other method: 3M fine-line green plastic automotive tapes, made specifically for obtaining clean color separations on flames and graphics using solvent-based paint. EDIT: One thing that's absolutely imperative for getting good two-toning is to make certain your base color is adhered very well to the surface. Masking over poorly-adhered paint will guarantee failure.

A few years back, somebody on eBay was selling what appeared to be sets of parts pulled from the old tool, in white plastic. I bought a couple.

Thanks Tim. Good news indeed.

Yes, while it's true you can print existing files without knowing CAD, like everything else, you'll find it very helpful if you understand how what you're doing actually works...especially if you encounter any problems.