Ace-Garageguy

Following a discussion here recently about the Kaman Huskie H43 helicopter, I was inspired to find one of the old kits. I just received a virgin Testors Canada repop of the Hawk version I built in my yoot. Nice kit, 1/32 scale, and the decals look perfect. The rotor blades are a little warped, but as is common with most rotorwing aircraft, they droop when at rest on the real one, so it shouldn't be much of a problem. Guess I'm gonna need a 1/32 Huey and Cobra now to keep her company. I wonder if anybody makes a 1/32 Sikorsky H19 and H34.

Exactly.

No fair. How are we supposed to know cars from other planets?

Beautiful work, sir.

Just like you do a real one, basically. And it depends on how low you want to go. Because both axles mount below the springs, you can take some meat off the springs where they meet the axles for a little lowering. For more, you can take meat off the ends of the springs where they meet the frame. For still more, you can reposition the spring brackets on the chassis upward slightly. For the maximum, it may be possible to mount the axles over the springs, rather than under them.

Two AMT kits I'm almost certain came with the vinyl Firestone piecrusts were the Willys/'32 Ford double kit, and the first issue Barris Surf Woody. As noted, the soft ones made a few appearances, and were also sold for the AMT Turnpike slot-car sets.

A smart thing GM did when they built the LS was to keep the same bellhousing bolt pattern, so pretty much anything that will bolt to a smallblock Chebby will bolt to an LS, and can be made to work (with the right flywheel or flexplate, and sometimes a crank-extension adapter...none of which would be visible on a model).

Yes. There is a community of enthusiasts, some of whom make trick parts for the old machines (where I got my polyurethane drive-belt set) and also deal in parts and accessories. There are also plenty of broken and unloved machines to cannibalize for not a lot of coin...usually. From '47 until '77, it's believed that 300,000 to 400,000 of the first-generation machines were made, with running changes, but basically all pretty much the same.

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I own a vintage Unimat, as well as the full size Bridgeport mill clone, and a 16" lathe. The early Unimats are little jewels, no plastic whatsoever, Austrian made, and old-world craftsmanship. I'd wanted one since 1959, finally got one a couple years back. I bought one that looked like it had never been used, complete. It converts to a mill-drill with what comes in the fitted wooden case. But they're not cheap. Be prepared to spend around a grand for a creampuff, and an assortment of drive belts (the original rubber ones will be toast), a speed reducer, and a few cutting tools and quick-change tool post.

Very nice indeed. Particularly impressive is the fit of the nose/hood top/hood sides. Not many folks ever get one this tight. And how'd you do those great looking louvers?

Something rather like this has been a problem in the past, and frankly, one of the reasons I kinda quit posting tutorials or build threads. Yes, you can create the post in Word or something similar, and copy it to the forum, but it's kinda a PITA if you do a lot, and the photos often have to be resized or otherwise juggled to look like a non-moron put the post together. I'd also thought the problem was resolved a while back.

We're drifting afield here, but since you asked... https://www.zerohedge.com/news/2017-07-15/3-examples-show-how-common-core-destroying-math-education-america And as you're an educator in Minnesota... https://theminnesotasun.com/2019/06/25/with-common-core-standards-minnesota-reading-scores-slide-without-common-core-math-scores-best-in-the-us/

Wow. Just wow. That's a big tank. The Mitsu J2M3's pretty cool too. I've never seen one.

Yes sir. I still have a Heathkit oscilloscope and a couple of VOMs.

Thanks. I had a 'duh' moment earlier, not thinking through you could mill the square hole by simply changing the orientation of the top half of the thing on the mill table. Some days my brain just doesn't fire on all eight...

I'm not much into diecasts in general, but occasionally I'll spring for a damaged rebuildable of a subject that's not available in styrene, and that I have a particular fondness for. I'd been after a bullet-nose Stude for some time, and the Flintstone resin kit was disappointing. I haven't seen any of these damaged in years, so when this nice-but-undocumented 1/24 Danbury Mint '51 came up a while back, in the color we had when I was a kid, I jumped on it. It's the most I've paid for a diecast to date, but as I saw much of the USA and Canada looking backwards out that rear wraparound window, I figured why not.

I had one of these. Not solar powered, but it had a light sensitive cell that fired a transistor relay to make it stop and go using a flashlight beam. Mine was black. Built one of these about the same time... Hmmmmm...I think I may have posted these back at the beginning of the thread.... Yup. Oh well.

Did you cut the slot with a broach? Other ways to do it, of course, but that's what I would assume.

The Fiberfab Avenger was a sorta GT40 knockoff... Not quite the same...

Seriously cool project, looking great already.

That, sir, is pretty slick. I have some parts to mill over the next few days. Guess I'll add one of these to the job list. Thanks.

Very nice indeed, period perfect. It's striking how steering/posable front wheels enhance the immediate realism of just about any car or truck model.

Can't possibly be any worse than common-core.

Yeah, every time I've driven a police-package Crown Vic, I've been impressed. It's probably the best big front-engined sedan ever built. I had a total I bought for the engine and gearbox to swap into a Jag XJ-6, but the car disappeared before I could move it from the shop where it was stored.