Ace-Garageguy

THANK YOU SIR !!!

Here we go again. Methylene chloride IS dichloromethane. Same thing. CH2Cl2 Bondene. WHITE BOTTLE. Reasonably effective on garden variety ABS. Labeled as such. CHEMICAL REFERENCE: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Dichloromethane Stronger solvent than MEK MEK is Plastruct's Plastic Weld. ORANGE BOTTLE. Works on Plastruct's wimpier version of ABS. Labeled as such. Which is what I said last time (other than the reference to Plastruct's version of ABS). NOTE: ABS FORMULATIONS HAVE VARYING DEGREES OF SOLVENT RESISTANCE. SOLVENT "ADHESIVES" ALSO HAVE VARYING DEGREES OF CONCENTRATION OF THE PRIMARY SOLVENT IN THE COMMERCIAL MIXTURE, WHICH MAY CONTAIN INACTIVE DILUENTS. GREATER OR LESSER CONCENTRATIONS OF THE PRIMARY SOLVENT WILL HAVE A MARKED EFFECT ON THE STRENGTH OF THE "ADHESIVE" AND ITS ABILITY TO SOFTEN WHAT IT'S APPLIED TO.

Note the orange bottle front label also states it bonds "Plastruct ABS". This was the source of the confusion in an earlier liquid glue thread. "Plastruct ABS" is not, in my experience, as solvent resistant as what are commonly referred to as "engineering grades" of ABS that many consumer products are made from. The original poster in that particular thread was wanting to repair the door on a microwave, and I recommended Plastruct's Bondene (methylene chloride) for that application, as it's labeling includes generic ABS.

The poor little Miata has had to suffer from several other misshapen blobs of "interpretations" or "re-creations" being mercilessly stretched over it. 250 Testa Rossa: Big Healey... Lotus 7... 250 GTO...

I always enjoy watching your work. This one looks like a real challenge. Fascinating, and inspirational.

Sounds pretty much like life in general to me.

It is specifically the frame from the XR6 in this kit:

Too bad Geely doesn't make a sports car with an obsolete farm implement engine. Call it an Austin-Geely.

Man, you've got a beautiful place there. Are you off grid?

Nice collection. Much inspiration. How'd you do the flying and landing wires on the Gee Bees and Gilmore Special? They look really good.

Pretty wild. Much liking.

Read this... https://www.ridetech.com/info/tech/4-link-tech/ That's pretty much everything you need to know. If you need more info, just ask.

^^^

Good looking parts. Wow.

Man. I wish I could say that...just one day a week even.

I've forgotten who made (makes?) this horrible Palmer-esque 550 Spyder kit (rear engined, not mid engined, on a VW pan), but again, lotsa folks don't see anything wrong with it. The good 550 kits, like the Beck car I have, are mid-engined, on tubular frames like the real cars, and the body lines and proportions are dead-on because the molds were pulled from real cars...not somebody's poor "interpretation".

Man, I'd forgotten all about Hawkwind. So thanks for that.

Thing is though, a lot of folks really can't see any difference.

I'm down to my last bottle too. Scary times we live in, yup.

I don't understand the problem. Whose tree is it? The responsibility rests with them. Period. Worried about making an "enemy" because you expect adults to shoulder their own responsibility? I don't understand the problem.

^^^ You can take what Steve says to the bank. His builds are among the best of the best.

These look great for your first model builds. You obviously have the talent to do this well, and getting the skill to turn out models you're really happy with just takes work. Talent is what you're born with. Skill is what you develop by continually exercising your talent. And just as in playing the piano, some folks don't have the talent to get really good, but still find it enjoyable. The advice about using epoxy or white PVA "canopy" glue for your windows is good. It's easy to get epoxy fingerprints on windows though, very hard to remove, but you'll learn to keep your fingers clean as you build more models. I prefer the white PVA glues for windows, as it's water-soluble when wet, and fingerprints can be removed with a damp swab or paper towel. The stuff also dries clear, and disappears completely if used correctly. The downside is that the PVA glues don't have much strength when they're wet. For best results, I've found windows need to be jigged or taped in place while the PVA sets up. Here are some headlight threads... (type this into Google for several more: modelcarsmag realistic headlights)

Something I've been after for a long time...a virgin-in-the-box HO scale Bowser Pennsy T-1 kit. This locomotive kit was originally offered by Penn Line in the 1950s, with a lead boiler and not great details. In '55, the kit sold for $39.95...kinda pricey way back then. Bowser bought out Penn Line's tooling around about '63, and retooled several of the kits. This one, cast in zinc alloy, was produced in 1998, and is complete with a ton of brass super-detail parts. One of my favorite locomotives of all time, it's a Raymond Loewy design ('53 Studebaker, Avanti, etc.), and was clocked at 126 MPH. Sadly, all the real ones were scrapped, but some people who love the thing are recreating a full-scale operational T-1 from factory blueprints. The loco constructed from the kit has detail rivaling the best plastic stuff, and two motors. It's said to be capable of pulling a string of 100 cars.