Ace-Garageguy

through green Jello

to his ewe

And I still betcha a bullet-nose Stude would fly off the shelves. But best get on the stick while the geezers who know what it is (and have a few bucks to burn) are still alive enough to buy them. I'd also betcha that model company planners look at the cheap and plentiful '53 Stude and Avanti kits and figger the bullet-nose would be a dog. I betcha they be figgering wrong.

There's no mystery, secret incantations, or rocket science here. The wingspan of the real Gee Bee R1 is 25 feet. Measure the wingspan of the model. Divide that into the wingspan of the real one. You'll get close to 1/26. Simple arithmetic. The wingspan of the Meteor is 25 feet, 3.5 inches. Same drill.

quit yer squawkin'

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with purple haze

Doesn't this belong in "questions and answers"?

in their maze

with the horses

^^^ Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into those, but I usually don't bother. As usual, a couple more hot showers, stretching, and a light workout followed by a few more aspirin and a night's sleep did the trick.

under the closet

in heavy syrup

Yup...and carefully recording the amounts of materials you use, so you can hit the color again, and doing "sprayouts" BEFORE putting anything on a model (which we do on EVERY body repair in the reputable real-car shops as well) to check the color. Once again, experimentation and testing...careful experimentation and testing...is key to getting consistent high quality results.

My point was only that, apparently, it IS possible to produce shorter-run subjects with narrower appeal than Mustangs and Camaros, pay the cost of kit design and tooling production, and still manage to stay in business. Cost control and having a few multi-skilled folks rather than multiple layers of do-nothing management goes a long way to making shoestring operations profitable. A similar strategy can be implemented by a company that's used to large-run projects. More typically, everybody just agrees "we can't" in multiple meetings, while sucking up the designer mineral water, jetted-in tea, coffee produced from individually-named beans, and free-range no-GMO gluten-free bagels and croissants.

No reason it wouldn't work. That is, after all, how metallic paints are made and mixed to start with. In the real-car paint mixing systems, you start with an appropriately colored base color, and add metallics, other pigments, and clear, by weight (to a formula) to get a specific color. Pearl-Ex powders (mixed into paint or clear) available at craft stores, are another way to achieve custom pearls and metallic colors.

Not to be argumentative, but the fact that Moebius is apparently still running in the black (and found a buyer) would seem to indicate that their strategy of producing somewhat obscure kits paid off. Hudsons? 1950s Chrysler products? I bought several of each...and those are cars I never in my wildest dreams imagined would EVER be kitted in styrene.

On a car of that caliber, that damage could well exceed $50k. Just the chrome strip on the far side of the hood, even if it only has a small dent, takes a very highly skilled craftsman, or several (depending on whether it's stainless, chromed brass, etc) many hours to correct so the fit and finish are perfect again.

Nope. Flakes is flakes.

says about it.

no matter what

Well, I've been strongly advising people for years to TEST BEFORE COMMITTING TO USE ON A MODEL ANY PRODUCT, COMBINATION OF PRODUCTS, OR PROCEDURE on something else...and the "spoons" aren't necessarily the best way to do this, though it's repeated endlessly. The spoon test will get you a decent idea of color density and coverage for a given number of coats, nothing more. And anyone who doesn't TEST THOROUGHLY BEFORE DOING A MODEL and screws it up, gets exactly what he deserves. In the words of Mr. Obsessive, "As always...........test, test, test your paint!"

the idiotic drivel.

Very close, but no cigar.

Mmmmmmmm...Yorkshire pudding.