Ace-Garageguy

I recall a drag strip terror that was built with a 406, shortly after the Ford FE engine of that displacement was introduced in 1962. There were a fair few 427-equipped baby Birds running on the strips a little later too. As the FE engine was introduced in '58, it would be a natural to replace the Y-block. Your mockup with the Halibrands already has me wanting to see more of this build. For something unusual that fits under a scoopless hood, you could try a front-blown setup. There was a rather famous '58 Corvette (Brian Chuchua ran 171 at Bonneville) built just that way.

"...a combination of two Eighties Mercedes-Benz W123 station wagons and a 1962 Imperial front end placed atop a tri-axle chassis with a dually axle in the center of the car and a Chevrolet truck front axle mounted at the rear, steering opposite the front wheels. A Mercedes-Benz turbodiesel engine powers the 29-foot laden limousine." https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2015/06/08/finnjet-the-only-car-with-a-chrome-bill-bigger-than-its-gas-bill-comes-up-for-sale/

That takes some effort, but it sorta has that ugly puppy, almost cute thing going on. Hard to be too mean to it. I'll have to sit this one out too. Thought I recognized it, but did a reverse-image-search. I was wrong.

Did anybody ever actually taste the stuff?

Dupilcolor paint sold in the auto-parts stores is intended for touchup work on real cars, and as such, is formulated with solvents that are often too "hot" for use on model-car plastic. A good primer is essential, and several threads have been written on that. Once you learn to handle the stuff, it works beautifully.

These can be maddening to correct sometimes, but it's part of the process if you want to improve what's in the box. The first thing to do is to think through exactly what you want to accomplish. I usually use small files to begin, as coarse sandpaper tends to spread the problem by making scratches that then also have to be corrected. Files cut straight, while unsupported sandpaper will just follow the flaws, rounding them off (if you want to use sandpaper, don't use any coarser than 180 grit, and be sure to use it on a block, so you keep the areas straight). On body lines, be careful to just remove the parting line and not the body line itself. This takes care and frequent examination of the work to avoid going too far. Your last photo shows at least 4 things that need to be corrected...one at a time. 1) Use a file to carefully take down the flash sticking up between the cowl panel and the door. 2) The door cut-line at the base of the windshield and the top of the fender needs to be rescribed. I'd use the tip of a razor saw blade, most likely. 3) Then the mold line that's on the body line on the front fender needs to be addressed, either with a file or sandpaper on a block. 4) Finally, there are some areas near the door cut-lines that will probably need to be filled. You will also find that after you correct an area and re-primer it, you will see something else that may need even more work, or that you just didn't notice previously. Patience and slow, careful work is the only way to make this stuff look good.

The "DeTomaso" version of the little Chrysler L platform had as much in common with a real DeTomaso as I do. The wheels and trim were upgraded, but the drivetrain was completely standard. The Omni / Horizon wasn't terrible, but it wasn't great...and it sure wouldn't go, stop or handle like a Vallelunga.

Some people CARE about scale fidelity and getting the details right. You obviously don't, and that's OK with me if it's OK with you. And what they're "supposed" to do is whatever the individual builder WANTS them to do. Many modelers here value knowledgeable input from people who actually know what they're talking about... and they ASK QUESTIONS concerning real-car function and engineering.

That's exactly what I thought. Thanks for the clarification, as that's exactly what I want.

No, it is NOT. The ONLY thing about it that IS Y-block is the valve covers. Both Tim Boyd and I have gone into considerable detail about this previously. See my June 16, 2015 post, above, and Tim Boyd's June 17, 2015 post, also above.

Just so there's no confusion...the Lincoln Y-block is NOT an MEL. They are two entirely different engines. The Continental valve covers are ONLY appropriate for a Y-block.

Every time I see one for reasonable money, I buy it.

Are you working from dimensions, or eyeball? I'm sure you're aware that there are significant discrepancies between the lines of the actual car and your "drag" body...perfectly acceptable for a model that's supposed to represent something like a one-piece fiberglass copy for racing...not acceptable for a model of the stock body.

Hokay...I found the instructions online, and the rear is suspended by short "leaf springs" mounted under the axle. This means that KWT's advice WILL work. Just be sure to remember that you can only go as low as the fit between the slicks and the wheel tubs will allow. Once the slicks contact the tubs, you'll have to cut the tubs loose and move them up relative to the rest of the chassis if you want to go lower still.

1) Though KWT gave you good advice for a car with leaf springs that attach under the axle, I believe the AMT kit you mention has a coil-spring 4-link setup. His advice doesn't work with that. 2) That kit assembled correctly sits right for what it is. It's got big slicks in the rear, and they need to clear the wheel tubs. If you lower it in the rear very much, you're probably going to have tub clearance issues, and you'll end up having to hack the chassis up too. 3) I have that kit in stock, and if nobody beats me to it, I'll have a careful look and let you know more details. Is this the look you want?

Try these links... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/75184-do-you-wear-a-resporator/

I've had some luck with wheels made for larger scales, running rubber-band tires made for 1/25. WARNING: May require math.

100k is probably a wise time to trade if you want to avoid the "old-car issues" on something heavily dependent on electronics and lots and lots of plastic electrical connectors that will be turning to powder by then.

I'm impressed...guess I misunderstood somewhere along the line. Sorry.

To get all those forward speeds in something small and light enough for an automobile, the internal parts that make it possible are necessarily much smaller. There's no engineering free lunch, and no matter how trick the friction materials and lubricants get, component life WILL become an issue at much lower mileage than in older designs. The car builders don't give a damm. As long as the thing makes it out of warranty, they're happy. They'll also be happy to sell the poor bastard that buys one used a complete trans for $5000 or $10000. Already, in 2007, Jag would not supply ANY internal parts for an auto box. It was factory new, or junkyard. Trans shops today are barely competent, in most cases, to rebuild a 3-speed Turbo-Hydro. When the 10-speeds start going, forget it...even IF you can get parts. But hey...everybody believe this insane level of complication is good. Buy, buy, buy. Bye bye.

You're the kind of consumer the car companies love.

And don't forget...EVERYONE IS A WINNER !!!! (I kinda like the guy with the Pontiac, actually. )