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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Twin Turbo Diagram 101?
Ace-Garageguy replied to drsnapper55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
To the best of my knowledge, either allowing the engine to idle for a couple of minutes, or just driving easily for a couple of miles prior to engine-shutdown makes a lot of sense as far as allowing the turbine housing to cool. If you've ever seen a turbo run hard at night, you've probably noticed they will glow red-hot, and lubrication oils can't really withstand that kind of sustained heat. This, again, is why very free drainage of the turbo oil system is imperative, but since the beginning of time, turbo-car-builders and engineers have been recommending a cool-down period before shutting-down the engine after hard driving. I haven't personally done the research, but I've seen a fair number of seized turbos. And it can't possibly HURT anything to be a little kind and considerate towards your machine. EDIT: Here's an experiment. Put a pan on the stove, on high. Let it get HOT. I mean crackling-smoking-turning blue HOT. Throw in some engine oil and watch what happens to it. Now take a clean pan, heat it just as hot, then shut off the flame and throw in some oil after it's cooled down for a minute or so. See any difference? -
Nylon, Acetal, Delrin, Teflon and PTFE (also Teflon) are "self-lubricating" plastics and typically do NOT bond very well to each other or anything else without specialized or exotic adhesives. Acrylic and Lexan (polycarbonate) will bond nicely with methylene chloride, which is in a lot of liquid plastic glues. Read the labels to be sure. PVC bonds well with plumbing pipe cement and primer. PETG also often requires a special adhesive.
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The rims are obviously polished aluminum, and you're going to need either a "buffing-metalizer" (Testors shown below on the REAR RIMS) or as mentioned (for a brighter finish) Spaz Stix, also available in rattlecans. Look for a YouTube video about using the stuff. You'll be sold. Alclad is airbrush only, but done right, it's really nice too. Videos using the stuff and the results you can expect are also available on YouTube. The centers in your photo are not as-cast grainy aluminum, but are rather a gloss fine-grained aluminum paint with a clear top-coat. I believe one of the Tamiya silvers is about the finest grained color like this you'll find. It's going to be tricky to get exactly the finish you want, as the Tamiya silver may be top-coated with clear to get that effect, but Spaz Stix or Testors buffing-metalizer can NOT be cleared without ruining the effect of polished metal...no matter what you may hear elsewhere. That means you'll have to do some VERY careful masking, and do things in a particular order.
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Twin Turbo Diagram 101?
Ace-Garageguy replied to drsnapper55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Dennis makes good points. The waste-gate may also sometimes dump into the muffled part of the exhaust system or it may vent directly to the atmosphere. Far as oil lines to a turbo, the supply line is generally quite small. It's usually taken directly out of the main oil gallery, at the base of the oil filter adapter (as Dennis suggests) or at a T-fitting under the oil-pressure-gauge sending unit. The return line is usually located as low as possible on the bearing housing, and is relatively large in diameter to promote free draining. The return line is very often plumbed directly into the side of the oil pan. If good drainage isn't provided to the turbine bearing, early seizure may result due to "coking up", which is simply residual oil inside the bearing burning and solidifying after engine shut-down, due to the very high temperature of the turbine housing. This was a common failure mode for early turbo installations. The photo below shows a small oil line in going at the top, and a large drain line out at the bottom. Photo below shows an oil return line going directly into the side of the oil pan under the engine. -
Amaco Balsa Foam Carvable
Ace-Garageguy replied to regular guy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
$25 SAMPLE PACK OF RENSHAPE : https://www.freemansupply.com/products/machinable-media-sample-kit -
Amaco Balsa Foam Carvable
Ace-Garageguy replied to regular guy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
RenShape and Amaco foams are both made specifically for tooling and sand and shape well for that reason. They were designed for tooling use, so they work better than other foams. -
1959 Dodge kit, will it happen?
Ace-Garageguy replied to '70 Grande's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thanks for the knowledgeable clarification and photos. Good to know the B engine would be at home in a '59 Dodge. I'll remove my incorrect info speculating that the little Hemi was available in '59 so there's no confusion. -
I can block them on my land line too, but I have to know which numbers are bogus to block them. And when they're blocked, the scammers just use different (probably spoofed) originating numbers.
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1959 Dodge kit, will it happen?
Ace-Garageguy replied to '70 Grande's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
OK, I'll accept that. But I still have a question. What would have been the "D-500" optional engine mentioned in the Police Special sheet? Not arguing, please understand, just asking. 361 B-engine 4bbl? -
Sun is shining, birds are singing. Nice day but a little chilly.
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The increasing number of scam robocalls from "charities" and "surveys" and "Microsoft". No, of course I don't answer this stuff, but it chaps my wrinkly old behind to come in every evening and find my voicemail filled up with offers of free cruises, credit-card-interest-rate-reductions (I cut up all my cards several years ago) and appeals from non-existent charities (or those legitimate ones who maybe get 5% of what the boiler-room bozos raise). I sure would like to see some teeth put in the laws that are supposed to regulate interstate telecommunications.
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Sorry you got treated like that, but from what I can tell, it's just about SOP for Craigslist respondents.
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Lindberg 1935 Auburn Boattail Speedster
Ace-Garageguy replied to Johnt671's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I agree with you entirely, Scott. All these kits can build up into nice models, and actually fit together pretty well. The only thing I find really not to my liking is that I believe (I have NOT measured) that the scaling may be a little off here and there. The Cord has some odd lines that don't exactly match the real car, as does the Auburn (though not as noticeable) and both the Auburn and Lincoln seem to be a little small for 1/25...but again, I have NOT measured. -
Yes, that's it exactly. When you build a V6 or V12 on a 90 degree angle, the only way to get even firing pulses is to stagger the rod journals on the crankshaft (exactly what GM did with the "even-fire" 231 and 252 cu.in. 90 degree V6 engines), and though it's not the best solution for a high-revving, high power-output engine, it can work just fine. The "odd-fire" 225 cu.in. version of the engine uses a very heavy flywheel with unique balance characteristics, and has a unique exhaust note. The Chebby 200 / 229 / 262 90 degree V6, essentially a smallblock V8 with two cylinders missing, used an odd-fire crank, with special flywheel balancing and "softer" mounts, and eventually an internal balance shaft to deal with vibration and rocking. Anyway, it's theoretically entirely possible to get a 90 degree V12 to work acceptably smoothly (a couple of different ways, actually) and nothing would show from the outside.
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Auto ID #311 Finished
Ace-Garageguy replied to otherunicorn's topic in Real or Model? / Auto ID Quiz
I remember that one. Really great looking car in my opinion. -
Pretty cool, but if it was real, you'd have a very complex balance and even-firing-pulse problem to solve. A V-16 on the other hand...
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Twin Turbo Diagram 101?
Ace-Garageguy replied to drsnapper55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Turbo setups all work the same way, and aren't as complicated as they may look initially. Once you understand the functions of the various parts, you'll be able to put them in any model engine bay so that they would be correct on a real car. Every turbocharger has two main parts...an exhaust-driven turbine section, and a compressor section that's driven from the turbine via a short shaft. Exhaust gas exits the engine through the exhaust ports on the head, flows through the turbine, turning it very fast as it passes, and exits out the side of the turbine into a relatively normal exhaust system. The turbine spins the compressor side via the short shaft connecting the two, and air is drawn in from an air filter, through the compressor, and then (usually) through an intercooler (that removes some of the heat air picks up as it's compressed), from there through the intake manifolding into the intake ports on the cylinder head. This somewhat simplified drawing is valid for EVERY turbocharger setup known to man. They ALL function exactly the same way...whether in cars, big diesel trucks, aircraft or locomotives, There can be additional detail parts, like popoff valves (also known sometimes as waste-gates) that dump exhaust gas ahead of or after the turbine under some conditions, and there can be pressure dump valves in the inlet tract as well in some applications (also known as blow-off-valves). The drawing above doesn't show where fuel is taken in, and that is where several major variations occur. A modern electronically fuel-injected engine will usually have injector nozzles in the intake ports, like a normally-aspirated (non-turbo) engine. Suck-through carbureted systems will have the carb positioned between the air filter and the compressor inlet. Blow-through carb systems will have the carb AFTER the compressor, but living inside a sealed box (old school) or specially modified for blow-through installation; blow-through systems are considered somewhat obsolete, so you won't encounter them very often these days (they can also be a real PITA to set up and tune). A twin-turbo system will essentially just have two of everything, unless it's a staggered system with a little turbo and a bigger turbo that provide boost progressively. -
Here's a little background on organic-vapor filtration using activated carbon. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/990135O/how-an-organic-vapor-cartridge-works.pdf And here's a link to "Safe Work Procedures for Products Containing Isocyanates" http://www.actsafe.ca/wp-content/uploads/resources/pdf/Isocyanates.pdf
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1959 Dodge kit, will it happen?
Ace-Garageguy replied to '70 Grande's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I didn't realize that. Fascinating. That would certainly make for a conversation-starter model. -
Amaco Balsa Foam Carvable
Ace-Garageguy replied to regular guy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The product listing states that it's "styrofoam" and can be cut with a "hot wire". This indicates it's probably closed-cell "beer cooler" foam, not really very easily sandable (as opposed to "open cell" floral styrene foam, which sands kinda OK). Similar "styrofoam" was used as structural elements in the Rutan-designed EZ series of homebuilt aircraft. Bear in mind that "styrofoam" is not resistant to polyesters (bondo) or lacquers or acetone. Only epoxy can be used reliably for surface finishing. -
If you're shooting water-based acrylics, relatively non-toxic, all you probably need is a particulate filter (just to remove droplets from the air, and a regular furnace filter would work fine). If you're spraying materials containing organic vapors or isocyanates, it's an entirely different deal. How much do you consider "safe" to inhale? You might want to lay in a supply of guinea pigs to test the efficacy of your system before committing to using it in the place you, your family, and your pets live.
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As the other guys have pointed out, though filtering through water certainly could work with enough engineering, it's most likely WAY beyond the scope of a DIY project. The 100CFM-minimum airflow requirement makes it extremely unlikely you could collect and force that much air through water fast enough to do you any good. Also bear in mind that the "2k" clears you want to use contain isocyanates in the hardener, and these are DANGEROUS IRRITANTS to the eyes, lungs, throat and nasal passages. A large activated-charcoal filtration system could remove these with less air-flow restriction than water, but again, it would require some careful engineering. Think in terms of a good sized exhaust fan pulling air through a particulate-filter first, and then through a carbon or charcoal furnace filter...or several. And remember that just because you may not be able to SMELL any fumes, they may still be there in amounts that can harm you.
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1959 Dodge kit, will it happen?
Ace-Garageguy replied to '70 Grande's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Well, maybe not. The Red Ram Hemi info I posted is INCORRECT, and I've removed it to avoid confusion. See dodgefever's posts below regarding the CORRECT B-engine availability in these cars.