Ace-Garageguy

That's what I said.

Best way to do it is to really do it. Primer your model the color you want as primer to show through. Then paint it whatever "worn" color you want. Then simply sand through the color coat to expose the primer in the appropriate areas. You need to use really fine paper...wet-or-dry paper, used wet...so you get a very fine and subtle feather-edge transition between your topcoat and primer show-through areas. PRACTICE / EXPERIMENT FIRST.

I'm still waiting to get more info on the models I PM'd him about. I'm STILL interested (hint hint).

Wow...yeah,now that you mention it...he built some really interesting and imaginative models. Hope he's OK.

I've got one on the way, should be here Monday or Tuesday. First thing will be to test-fit the ancient (and excellent) Revell 1/25 '30-'31 Ford firewall, hood and grille... just to see how they actually work with the new-tool version. Second thing I'm going to do is to look into making it into a '29, as there's been some interest expressed here as to how that could be most easily achieved. I just got a Revell '29 truck cab specifically to use as a donor for the forward section. I have dimensioned drawings of all the relevant 1:1 bodies, so it ought to be interesting to see what really works relative to all the speculation.

Yeah, some of the websites say $500-$750 for a timing belt job, but by the time you deal with the extra complexity of the turbo model, and the really required tensioners, seals and water pump (you HAVE to remove the timing belt to do a water pump or any of the seals on the end of the engine, so you may as well do them all when you do the belt) plus the almost inevitable broken fasteners...then throw in an oil change, air filter, plugs and wires that will most likely be finished by the time you do the belt, you're up to two grand easy. A design flaw also allows the water pump to leak coolant on to the timing belt if the pump seal goes bad, which will hasten the belt's demise considerably. The Chinee pumps, even the "lifetime guarantee" aftermarket pumps, last about a year. And the guarantee DOES NOT COVER LABOR TO REPLACE THE THING ALONG WITH THE TIMING BELT, which drives it. That's why it's IMPERATIVE TO USE OEM PARTS. There's another potential problem too. "Mechanics" who quote lowball prices to do the job will often FORCE the timing belt on the sprockets without getting everything out of the way..."saving money". The problem with this is that IF the side of the timing belt gets nicked, it WILL fail prematurely, leaving you stranded by the side of the road, or worse yet, resulting in a full engine shut-down on an interstate with potentially dangerous or fatal results...because when the engine quits, the power steering and power brake assist quit too. The engine compartment is EXTREMELY tight due to the cute retro styling, and though it could have EASILY been engineered to be simple to service by allowing only ONE MORE INCH between some components, nobody in the design chain thought it was necessary to make the thing reasonably easy to work on. So it's a double-barreled bugger. Cute and fun to drive though. Keep it well maintained by NON-CHIMPS with USA-quality parts and it will give you hundreds of thousands of miles.

Simply because he knew in advance he'd gross at least $80,000 before I was ever brought in to the equation...if I could do it...but I was kept in the dark regarding what other factors were in play. I bent over backwards making the project happen and ended up barely breaking even on the thing. After MY expenses, I made about $400. Yes, $400. He sat in the office, made a few calls, and hired an outside engineer to write up the procedure I developed (paid the outsider about $1000). Almost zero effort for $50,000 profit on MY work. All of which has nothing to do with this thread...other than the fact that my work was contracted for specifically with the full intention of making a windfall profit immediately on my completion of said work. ------------------------------------------------------------- Anyway, I sincerely hope SOMEBODY steps up and resumes production of at least some of the Modelhaus catalog.

I'll agree they are substantially different circumstances. I STILL feel that loading Modelhaus up with a heavy order that's specifically intended to be sold for a significant profit in the future is not in the spirit of appreciating Modelhaus' considerate effort to allow modelers (as opposed to resellers) to get in some final orders before shutting the doors forever. Nobody has to agree with my thoughts on this. Nobody.

People who can't be bothered to FOCUS ON DRIVING WHEN THEY'RE DRIVING need to pull off the road, push their heads up their butts, and stay there.

This wasn't a car project. Engineering, and hands-on repair of a composite aviation airframe, including the design and fabrication of multiple fixtures and special tools that hadn't existed previously. The work had never been attempted before and even the factory that MADE the damm airplane said it was impossible. There was NO WAY to prepare an all-encompassing estimate in advance, because as I said, it was breaking new ground. Not really the same as restoring a car that's been done 1000 times. The work was intended to be sold on even before I got involved, but I agreed to what I thought was a fair price to tackle it based on the severity of the damage I was TOLD by the primary contractor was a complete inventory. Had I KNOWN IN ADVANCE that the project would be billed out at over $85,000, I certainly would have held out for more money. This is the issue: The primary contractor KNEW IN ADVANCE he'd make a killing on my work. I did not. I still feel unfairly taken advantage of. But it's OK to screw people in business, right? Thing is, I WOULDN'T DO THAT TO SOMEONE. I routinely offer to pay MORE if a piece of subcontract work meets or exceeds my expectations, simply because quality is so impossible to find.

Nice little PT convert, Tom. Just be ready to spend around $2000 when it needs a timing belt at around 100k. It's prudent to do it earlier, like at 80-90k, especially on the turbo, as underhood temps accelerate belt deterioration. You'll also be well advised to replace the belt tensioners, front crank seal and cam seals, AND the water pump while you're in there. And only use MOPAR parts. The aftermarket stuff for these cars is outsourced offshore trash and fails early. Ask me how I know. I'd also recommend switching to full synthetic oil. I've torn down multiple engines that have used it, and it really makes a difference in the internal wear characteristics of any engine. We got right at 200,000 miles on a Geo Metro 3-cylinder, and when I went in it to look at the rod bearings, they looked like they would have easily gone for another 20 or 30k. The 160k PT engine I was in recently for cylinder head work looked almost brand new inside. WATCH THE TEMP and the coolant level on the PT, too. The plastic-tanked radiators are known to begin leaking, and the electric fan hub sometimes detaches itself from the shaft. If you drive one in the "red" zone for long, a warped head and blown head gasket will be the result. Clunking and banging coming from the front end starts with the failure of the outboard tie-rod ends, then the inners and the balljoints all about the same time. The batteries are also under-spec'd for the application. High underhood temps make batteries fail much more frequently that you'd think they would. The early cars (with a simple modification) will accept a larger group 24 battery in place of the smaller OEM-style unit, and it will last longer. Actually, they're really pretty good little cars in spite of the whining and horror stories...just a pain to service when you have to do anything to the front (RH) of the engine.

I once did a groundbreaking project for a fella for $30k, and he sang the blues the whole time about the cost. Even added work under the original price, which his slipshod estimate had overlooked (and I'd accepted, as he was supposed to be an "expert" in the field) and I'd allowed, because I needed to get the damm job done, get paid, and get on with my life. He knew my previous work well, and knew I was the most qualified to produce first-rate results. Soon as it was complete, he resold my work for in excess of $85,000, and it turned out he'd intended all along to do just that. His company also got the industry-wide credit for all of it. How would you like to be in THAT situation? Don't even try to pretend it wouldn't pizz you off...and leave you with a bad taste about the idea of someone making a windfall profit on someone else's work for very little effort.

The Monogram-boxed '40 is the same as the Revell-boxed '40, and it's 1/25. The only 1/24 '40 is the old Monogram pickup.

And the point missed with irrelevant comparisons yet again!!

He's absolutely right. Finishing with a round file does indeed usually make a nicer, better located and rounder hole...especially if you don't have the more pointed bits made for plexi. Step drills also tend to make rounder holes, if you can find them in small diameters and if you get your centers dead on.

There's a fairly new hobby shop up in Blue Ridge that looks to be pretty well stocked. I used to drive up in that direction a lot just to get away from the city and find some cool breezes. Might be needin' to cruise up there in a week or three. http://freetimehobbies.com/

PS. I sure would like to know what that compound-curved fill panel on the OP photo was scrounged from. Obviously cut from the roof section of something else. That's BY FAR the easiest way to do it on a 1:1, and about the ONLY way do do a nice clean job if you don't have access to an English wheel. EDIT: I LOVE Google. I did a reverse image search and found the original build thread on that car. The roof section is from a Volvo 122.

Lotsa things on custom cars and hot-rods "defeat the purpose" of elements of the original design. The driving position is SO different in a chopped / channeled car from what it was in a stocker that it's kindof a moot point anyway (as to whether the visor still has any actual function). A lot of these cars, like this one built by the last shop I contracted to, are run with the roof center made to be removable. You can see the traffic signals by simply looking up. And then, the '32 Fords dispensed with the visor entirely, with no adverse effects.

I'm sure a number of folks here would say that once the giver gives a gift, he has nothing more to say about what happens to it, any more than a manufacturer / seller has no say in the disposal of his product, and that once the ownership of property changes hands, the new owner is entirely free to do whatever he pleases with the property. I personally think it's an unappreciative and greedy recipient who would turn a very kind and generous gesture from a fellow modeler into a quick profit. But that's just the opinion of a warped, twisted, angry and bitter old man.

Interesting model. Looks like everything is clean and well-executed. Nice job trimming the old tall-T shell to fit all the dragster guts too.

I think this is one of the best colors and overall looks for the '36 Ford 3-window, and the black wash on the grille looks just right. Nice atmospheric photos too.

OK. I'll start. Good looking, fast looking model. I particularly like that rear 3/4 shot. It emphasizes the aggressive stance nicely. I'm also liking the overall theme of the build, and the chrome-trim fastener holes in the body panels. Reminds me of the Two Lane Blacktop car...an iconic '55 Chevy. A couple of small things that jump out at me (and I think could make a fine model better) is the lack of any plumbing on the brake master cylinder, and the front axle centerline seems to be a tad too far to the rear. The latter could be due to camera lens distortion, and the former is only noticeable because the engine bay is nicely cleaned up like a drag / street car would be, with only the basic necessities of plumbing. A line or two on the master cylinder would make it seem more complete.

Not "everything". Just a lot of what's accepted as "the way it is".

As usual, your response means...ummm...nothing. Sounds good to me. Good night, Gracie.