Monty

I'll definitely be following this build. I've got a 1:1 red/red '80. Mine came with the L48 350. I've been wanting to replicate it, but I can't figure out a good way to do the mirrored t-tops. BTW, the cure for that anemic 305 (and myL48) is available at your local GM dealer. Crate motors for everything from a stock replacement (Targetmaster) to roller-cammed big blocks. Keep us posted on your progress!

I saw Tonioseven's Monte Carlo and it reminded me of the '77 MC my dad had. It was silver with black half roof, red carpet and dash, white leather seats... beautiful car. I'm planning on using the Revell snap kit as a basis for a full-on model (engine, etc). Problem: I can't begin to think of a whay to make these wheels his car had. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1081394515047575179ZHTzsF Any ideas?

This is my 2nd resin purchase. My only previous resin purchase was from the Modelhaus & I had mixed feelings - delivery was timely but quality was not quite what I'd been told to expect. In this instance, I happened to find Scale Modeling by Chris via a Google search for resin wheels. I was just wondering if anyone else here had dealt with him. If so, were you pleased with the quality? Does he deliver relatively quickly? Thanks!

Guys, thanks for all the reference information. Just to verify, do all the AMT '63 Impalas have the American Racing 200S wheels I'm looking for? Ebay shows at least three different releases: 1) http://cgi.ebay.com/AMT-1963-IMPALA-SS-1-2...bayphotohosting 2) http://cgi.ebay.com/AMT-1963-Chevrolet-Imp...bayphotohosting 3) http://cgi.ebay.com/amt-1-25-classic-cars-...bayphotohosting

Years ago I had a set of these on my 72 Skylark. Mine were the non-plated versions as depicted in the link. I've always liked these wheels. If anyone has an untouched set from the AMT '63 Impala, I'd like to talk (nudge-nudge, wink-wink).

I'd like to have a list of all the AMT kits that have Edelbrock Elite series valve covers and air cleaners. Bonus round: Is there an AMT Impala with American Racing 200S wheels in it? http://pittsburgh.ebayclassifieds.com/c-Ca...QAdIdZ130411648 TIA for all helpful answers.

I have never seen anything like the intake on this engine, and my Google (and Bing) searches for pictures came up empty. Anybody know where I can get some reference pics of this engine? Every time I look at the intake, I think "That can't be all there is to it." TIA for any helpful links, pics etc.

I had the same question 10 years ago & resolved it by studying (and printing off) the underhood pictures I found on the internet. With a little effort you should be able to get pics of most of the things you want to duplicate. If you were to look under the hood of the average 70's GM car, for example, you'd see different shades of black on the inner fender wells, radiator, battery, belts & visible suspension components. As for the interior, leather and vinyl seats will typically have a different sheen than the dash. To find the shades you need, you can experiment by mixing different ratios of gloss black, flat black & sometimes other colors until you get the shade you want (enamels seem to be best for this type of thing). For example, one builder I know adds a little silver to his black when he airbrushes his seats. IMHO, once you've mixed the shade you need, bigger items like inner fender wells and separate frames (newer AMT cars) should probably be airbrushed to avoid brush marks. If you have a hobby shop that carries the Testors line, you'll find that they have Gloss, Semi-gloss and Dull sprays that you can apply over enamels. These can sometime be used as a quicker way to get the shade you're looking for. You're on the right track, now get to mixin' some paint.

I've got most of the chassis, interior and engine completed on my '67 Impala, but I can't come up with a way to do a two-tone (or possibly a three-tone) paint job. The main color will be one of the Tamiya metallic blues. Since starting this project about 9 years ago, I've become aware that there are already 8 million of these out there already painted that way. I was hoping to set mine apart by using silver and/or white. Unfortunately, this car's lines are not conducive to two or three-toning without straying beyond my concept of a quasi-stock street machine. I'd be happy to be proven wrong. Post any pics you think might be helpful. TIA

Guys, I purchased several bottles of the WalMart HOK hobby paints when they were available. Unfortunately, HOK made their reducer in the same size bottles as their paints, so it was virtually impossible to ever find any. Have any of you found a reliable, readily available reducer for airbrushing? I'd prefer something I can find locally as opposed to buying online. The paint seems to be a hybrid (acrylic enamel?) and having no background in chemistry, I'm at a loss as to what might work best. I've seen some people say lacquer thinner works while others have said it just caused their paint to clump up. TIA for all helpful responses.

I agree that this board has some outstanding builders, but I've seen some good builders get blown off completely. This example still sticks in my mind because a very good modeler once found our board, posted several well done models, and, with the exception of my posts, was greeted by the cricket choir. I didn't know him, but he and I seemed to share an affinity for the same types of models. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...sult_type=posts I hope he found a board that would give him the time of day

I'm going to be replicating a 71-72 Mercury Cougar from my high school years. The car was stock, including whitewall tires. I'd like to find a set of whitewalls with a more realistic width than, say, AMT's Firestone Supremes. I'd prefer to buy these directly as opposed to trying to get them off Ebay. If you happen to have a Modelhaus part number that would work on this car, please let me know.

Very nice job! All you have to do to finish it is figure out a way to make the brakes squeak and the t-tops leak and have something vacuum-controlled unexpectedly go out (headlight pods are good for this) I liked your solution for replicating the dark mirrored t-tops, so I'd like to know what you'd suggest for some of the more silver-looking units (my 1:1 '80 has M92As which are definitely a silver-mirrored surface). PS I think I saw you over on the C3 section of corvetteforum.com earlier!

According to Myles' post above, it's a PPG product, so I assume you could find it at a 1:1 car paint jobber. Check the 'net or your local Yellow Pages. Unfortunately, with my new job it's going to be awhile before I get to shoot any paint. Good luck with yours. Post pics!

I bought several jars of HOK enamels when they came out, but the airbrush reducer was always out of stock. I'd like to find a reducer that can be purchased locally on a same-day basis, as opposed to mail order. And, not to be a jerk but, if you don't actually know the answers from personal experience, I'd rather you didn't speculate on what "might work". The paint is kinda pricey, so i'd rather not experiment till I found the answer. My questions are: 1) Will ModelMaster airbrush reducer give me as good a finish as HOK's? 2) I know a few people who reduce enamels (especially Humbrol) with lacquer thinner; anyone tried it on these HOK paints? If you've used any of their paints, please post pics and tell me which colors you used. Thanks!

Very nice! Been a while since I've seen pics of a built one. Couple questions if ya don't mind: 1) What all did you have to do to make the steering poseable? 2) Do you have some interior shots? I'm curious as to how people are detailing hte dash. Thanks!

Scott, you and I have almost identical tastes as far as models go. I have kits of the models you've built on my to-do list; here's hoping mine turn out half as well. I like everything you've posted, and I really like your Rivieras, the big Merc as well as the Little Red Express from your other post, but that Cougar just seems to stand out. Any chance you'd consider showing us some engine/interior/chassis shots on these cars? Just out of curiosity (and for the sake of a future project), where did you find the metallic brown paint you used on the Mustand II?

Hey Floyd, do you shuffle like a constipated bear when you walk?

Oh, if only I weren't such a Luddite. Sometimes I think I'm the only person on the planet without a digital camera. Pics? I have none. Views? I have plenty :wink: One thing I really miss is Testors' original Ford Engine blue (#2727), which was darker than their current iteration (Ford/GM engine blue). It was the closest match I'd seen to the shade on my dad's 390s and my Mustang's 351C.

I was a Mustang freak when Monogram first released the Boss 429. I remember wondering who @ Monogram actually approved the box art with the "goldfish-eyes" headlight treatment. Luckily I had tons of Mustang magazines around for references, so mine didn't look nearly as childish. As you mentioned, this cover shot has resulted in numereous imitators, all because they assume he got it correct. I guess I just assumed that even the average builder did a little research on the subject at hand before starting on it. It's funny that you posted this when you did; I'd been considering this subject for the Rants-n-Raves section. Thanks for your help in spreading the word!

Jeff, I agree with you regarding the MPC 'Vettes. It's hard to beat the fully rotating halfshafts or the poseable steering, and I think the MPC small block Chevy is better than the one in the Revellogram Pace car, although I wish MPC had made it with the dual snorkel air cleaner and finned valve covers (L-82). I've been wanting to do a replica of my 1:1 '80 - The Scarlet Snail, but I've never found a good way to replicate the mirrored (but translucent) t-tops What are you using to mask around the fenderwells?

As a kid, I built an AMT Freightliner COE w/ sleeper and I've always wanted to do another one. I was told on one model forum that there had been a copyright issue over the White Freightliner name, but that's apparently been resolved since a daycab Freightliner COE was released in the last year or so. So, any idea if the molds for the COE w/ sleeper are still intact? I can't afford the car payments these things sometimes bring on Evil-Bay... :cry: PS I suck @ scratchbuilding, so I don't wanna buy the daycab version and try to modify it.

Jeff, I like how your engine came out but I'm looking for the darker blue (sometimes called Corporate blue). If you're saying the acrylic Ford/GM engine blue starts out too dark, maybe I'll start there... I winder if real engine enamels would be too hot or too thick for this :?

1) Years ago, Testors Model Master paints included #2727, which was Ford Engine blue. Sometime since then, they changed this to Ford/GM engine blue, which is considerably lighter in color. Growing up. we had nothing but Fords, so I know what color I'm looking for. Where can I find real Ford engine blue in a hobby enamel (or good acrylic)? 2) If I wanted to do a 3-color car with Tamiya lacquers, spraying the lightest coat first etc, how long do I need to wait to mask and shoot the 2nd and 3rd colors? PS This looks like an awesome board. Glad I stumbled across it!