Fat Brian

I went to a show and swap meet today and scored some goodies, today was a good day.

It was good to see you Mike and yes, thanks for the good deals. The turn out may have been light but there were some very nice builds there.

Mike, as of right now I plan to come down there. If I make it I'll try to find you.

You might have to take this question to an aircraft builders forum, this is a bit outside of our area of expertise.

Sure, once you've got it cut in two you can add whatever rear piece back into it you want as long as the frmes match up.

I just put two of each on pre-order, I can't wait.

The way they run side by side engines on pulling tractors is that each engine has a torque converter or clutch in a regular bellhousing and the output shaft from it turns a pulley with a belt that runs between the two engines. There is a third pulley in the middle that connects to the transmission. This is a picture of a four engine tractor but the rear two engines have been removed and you can see how the box connects the front two engines which face forward and the rear two engines which face backwards so all four engines can feed into one box with one output shaft.

Yes it does, it cannot be built stock.

The best of the 1/24-1/25 57 Chevies is the new tool released by AMT in the early 2000's. There is a stock version with a picture of a pink car on the box and a street machine version with a blue model with Corvette wheels on the box. This is the hardtop version of the car that has become iconic unlike the new Revell kit that is the post window body style. There's nothing wrong with the 100th anniversary kit but it is dated and there are other kits to consider now.

I like the Detail Master one the best but it's not correct for every situation. It looks aftermarket so for stock builds I usually just drill out the kit part.

Based on some previous posts I think the objective is to avoid peterizing it.

The interior wouldn't matter, the truck won't be stock anyway.

All of my automotive stuff is 1/24-1/25, I really don't have room to display them much less something bigger. My aircraft are all 1/72, again for space considerations mostly. My armor is evenly split between 1/72 and 1/35 with a couple 1/48 kits thrown in too.

I would be interested in a D150 if it had the older grill like this one. http://image.moparmusclemagazine.com/f/dodge85/27673343+w450+h338+cr0+re1+ar1/1985-dodge-d150-pickup-2.jpg

The body of these kits aren't bad, it's the chassis that is lacking. If you want to make it better swap in the chassis from the AMT 69 Cutlass W-30 which, while still not quite up to modern standards, is leaps and bounds better than the Chevelle unit. Both of these kits can be had very cheap, with some careful shopping you'll probably only be in it for the cost of a kit fresh off the shelf.

That's incredible, sometimes you get lucky.

That Mustang is so cool.

Is it a Renault gearbox or a wrong attempt at a MACK unit.

I don't.

The DM800 engine is an ENDT-864, I believe the kit replicates a '66 model vehicle because it has the shallow cab. This engine became the 865 which lasted until the late seventies with a few small changes.

The only other kit of that I can find was done by IMC back in the sixties which makes sense because Testors did release other IMC kits. If it is there's it should be decent but kind of fiddly, IMC originally made the Dodge L700 that was recently released under the Lindberg name and you can read some threads about it to get an idea of their quality. Their kits were ambitious for their time but the execution was spotty.

The E9 and it's transmission from Auslowe would be a good start. It's cast from a Renault 1/24 kit so it is the correct scale though you could use the 864/865 out of the DM800 in a pinch to replicate an early model Superliner. Then you would need a Mack specific rear suspension, be it camelback or Mack air ride. The hardest part is that the frame needs to flair out in the front like the DM600 and 800 frames. Italeri created some accuracy issues using the FLC chassis for the Superliner and LTL kits, it just depends on how committed you are to fixing them. I got the E9 for mine but I'm not messing with the frame,

It depends on who made the original kit, some are reboxes of Fujimi kits and are good to excellent while kits from other manufacturers can be pretty bad. You really have to go kit by kit, since they are all repops of other companies kits there isn't a "brand quality" that is consistent one to another.

Most of the warped bodies I've encountered have been due to the way the box was packed. The body gets too much pressure on it and takes on the squished shape.

I cut the windows out of the top of my sleeper and made it almost a flat top, it looks much better. I'm also going to add the air deflector from the Revell Peterbilts to the top of the cab.