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slownlow

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Everything posted by slownlow

  1. Rob, if you go to the Fotki address under my signature and look at the models folder I did progress shots of chops on the 40 Ford coupe, 53 cevy, 49 Mercury, and this girl. The images may explain better than my words. Mark, the paint is a custom mix of black and Deep Pearlescent Purple. So far the dash is all I've painted but it didn't photograph too well.
  2. Rob, there are several techniques for chopping tops. The type of chop that works for me on late 30's to late 40's kind of looks like this. The A and B pillars are cut removing the amount of chop desired the C pillar is removed till the slope of the rear window section is determined. You can see that when the A pillar is cut the roof must move forward to reattach the pillars. This determines how much gap needs to be filled in the roof if you wish to keep the roof level. A "gentleman's chop" lowers the roof more in front than in back so more would be added across the back. As with all things there are a bunch of ways to accomplish the same result. Some guys will notch the back bottom of the A pillar allowing the windshield to slope back too. Different roof styles also require different techniques. I learned this style from Mark Gustavson"s book "Custom Car Modeling". Hope this wasn't too confusing. The main thing is just to go for it. If you keep your vision clear the roof will tell you what it wants.
  3. Andy, back in the day I had a 4 door sedan. Ya suicide doors, One enhanced evening I almost lost a buddy but for the quick reaction of another friend. That was one of the most comfortable cars I ever had. You felt like you were sitting in a couch plus a throttle knob so it was sort of cruise control.
  4. Guess it's time to post this WIP in full. It's a 41 Plymouth I started last winter and with all the hype with the 48 Ford fade I thought I'de try something a little different. I started out with a 3"+ chop. Then on to the fade. I built the base up with styrene square rods then over coated with bondo then recreated the fender side flares with .010" styrene. What i learned is don't mix your medias so much as the different products sand differently. I'll recreate those iconic speed lines coming off the back of the wheel radiuses once I'm happy with the final sanding and panel lines. As i worked on it I began to dislike the bulky feel of the rear fenders and trunk so I did a pie section to help ease the look. This shows the darkened areas to be removed with a "hinge" scribe up and across the top of the trunk. and the result I also learned don't add the rain gutter till your happy with the panel lines, large pain in the tuckus. Here's the engine. I had to make the exhaust headers as the kit had something more appropriate for a gasser. This is the interior. Next time I'll do the door tuck and roll in a smaller profile than the seats. I haven't shot the body but the color is Model Master's "Deep Pearlescent Purple" with black added. The dash is that color but in the pic it just looks dark. Here's hoping I get er done before turkey day.
  5. This has been on the bench since last winter. I go down and work on her a little each week and yes its a MOPAR
  6. I saw this ol girl resting at a Des Moines truck stop this spring. Now I'm off to the Goodguys show.
  7. You gotta love thus one. But he wished he got payed by the bushel instead of by the mile.
  8. Here's my 1967 BMW R60/2. She's why there's a hold on my 1:25 projects right now.
  9. I'de like to see an article about making correct inner tubes with a follow up on how to insert them without pinching them against the rims. There could be links for where to get country correct air to inflate them.
  10. Thanks again for the good reception. Here's a few more detail shots. The bed is one piece of oak veneer wiped with tung oil, styrene strips painted with alclad, glued with CA. There was really no radiator core so this is scratch, no pun intended, built. There was no fan either and that came from the parts box. It's too bad more time was not spent casting and detailing this iconic 1939 Mercedes engine. The hood ornament started out as a charm bracelet swan that suffered some serious body modifications. The tailgate is functional and the lever above the gun blister / tail light is the latch handle To follow the build history go to http://public.fotki.com/bobmaloy/models/erwins-shop-truck/
  11. After opening the box and noting how the Rommel's Rod kit was I started to think what else could be done with it. Seeing as how the war thing wasn't working out too well I wondered what Rommel's shop truck would look like if he had taken his career in the rod and custom car direction. This is what I came up with. with it being a truck now it needed a tail gate. If you have a truck you need something to put in it. Of course you need a corporate logo and catch phrase. and this was pre GPS time all in all this build was a gas. hope you enjoy
  12. slownlow

    40 ford

    Andrey, I looked at that car a lot while building this one. The color is something I mixed up when my wife said it should be "kind of a terra cotta" color. It was flat and then sprayed with clear gloss. I was really tempted to leave it flat.
  13. slownlow

    40 ford

    Thanks for the kind comments. To channel this way I found a site which describes how it was done "back in the day" http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/channeling_body_drop_car/index.html and that's pretty much how this car was done.
  14. slownlow

    40 ford

    I've been a lurker for quite a while and finally joined up. I'm a very slow builder, my current project has been going on for 6 months, as life keeps getting in the way. This is an older build I'm presenting so I can work out any posting quirks. She's a Revell standard 40 ford. The top is chopped 3" and the body channeled. The channel was done by lowering the body on the frame but not the fenders. enjoy
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