slownlow

Its been a while since I posted so here's an update. I've got the chop done (buy the AMT version) and have the fenders repositioned on the body. After a lot of head scratching over the geometry of the hood. By moving the front fenders "up" the hood had to be shortened about 1/16". So where to cut it and how to make the sides blend was the question. I made the cut behind where the hood contacts the radiator shroud and then removed a pie section out of the middle of the rear half. That let the two pieces blend. Then a small mount of filing so the back of the hood matched the cowl. I made a paper template to make sure my geometry worked. To get the front low enough to suit me I made a rediculously dropped axel. If this was real you probably couldn't drive over a peanut. This is a very fussy model. The assembly sequence needs the interior to be attached to the body before the top is installed. This prevents correcting that annoying alignment problem of the moldings of the top and the moldings of the body so steps are being taken to allow the top to be attached prior to painting. The wheel covers will be the concentric ring style. No thought yet about colors.

Save those false fingernails too. They make great hood scoops.

Here are a couple of pics of a 49 Merc with a pie section cut. As the cut widens it ultimately ended up a scale 3".

Here's a Guillows P-40 I did several years ago. As kids we built these all the time. The bi-planes are hard to get the wing orientation right and imagine a Foker tri-plane. I was able to find dope a my LHS. I think some RC planes use it. The only problem I had was using alcohol to shrink the tissue paper rather than water, it didn't shrink as much.

I saw this heading east on I 80 in Des Moines, IA. Looks like some one has a winter project.

I got this from a KKIM member a few years ago. I printed up a bunch on orange card stock and love passing them out.

Very nice!!!

Bob, This is one time brush marks are a good thing. To achieve a wood look with paint I use a "dry brush" technique, using a brush that is almost empty of paint. The brush I prefer is a stiff, short bristle, flat,square tip style. My favorite brush is about 1/4" wide. To achieve a "dry brush" I dip the brush in the color and brush it almost dry on a scrap of plastic or paper and then brush on the model. For colors I start with a base of testors wood color. Then start dry brushing. The colors you use depend on what your final look is to be. I do a lot of test runs on scrap to get the balance I'm looking for. For a well maintained or new car look I use burnt umber, reds, yellow greens. I mix in more grays and blacks for a more weathered look. Doing research of 1:1 images is very helpful. In the following pics if I had done my research better on the 48 ford the structural pieces would have been more yellow and with less grain. Hope this helps

Mike, I remember one of the enthusiast mags had an article about Nettesheim. He's got way more money than I have but excellent taste. Sorry to hear about that lordairguitar. Bikes are beemers and cars are bimmers. Sounds like that guy was more into the image than the machine. Here's a pic of the 67 when I brought her home. The engine is under the orange plastic on the bench and the rest is in the wheel barrow.

Too cold to ride today, 1 degree this morn, so here's dream'n of warmer weather. 1967 BMW r60/2 1976 BMW R90S

Doug, Welcome to the forum and also Ankeny. Looks like we'll be take'n over the city soon, all both of us. Like your work and hope you keep at it. I've been in a slump for a while but this is a great hobby for Iowa winters. Again welcome.

Back in the day I worked for a farmer that had used horses. He was of mixed emotions about tractors cause they could go all day and night. He said after 10 hours horses were played out and so was he.

Far out man. All it needs are a bunch of greatful dead stickers in the rear window.

Very nice! Proof god is in the details

I've had good success using real leather. I find some that I like from old billfold, check book, glove, purse, or? Then scrape it "wafer thin" with a dull knife or coarse sandpaper or both. Then cut to general shape, glue using Elmer's white glue and then trim after glue is dry. Sorry the pic is only fair but Fotki in their infinite wisdom is moving my images to Elbonia or is it Estonia so my better pics must still be on a container ship in the North Atlantic. Bob Maloy

Rich, I vote for opening doors. Your interior is so good it'll be easier to see.

Weird, Lets try that address again. http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm Now it seems to work

For scale conversion here is a handy website that helps out IMMENSELY. http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm I have it bookmarked and use it alot.

Trying to find words to describe this. Elegant is all I can come up with.

Fabulous work Kenneth, Here's a pic of a 1939 shown 2 years ago at a local concourse. She was a little gem.

Looking good! Soon you'll really test that optivisor with the BMF.

This is a dandy!

Here's where my madness transpires. It's an old drafting table my dad rescued and has been with me since high school. I also find the machinist chest invaluable for storing everything from paint brushes to bare metal foil to French curves. I can keep tools separated in different draws according to their uses, cutting and drilling in one drawer, shaping and filing in one, tweezers and clamping in one, etc.

Thanks to all for the kind comments. Now on to building the "hookie". It'll be based on the Beverly Hillbillies Olds. I am thinking of replacing granny's platform and making either a roadster or a phaeton. I'll have to check the wheelbase to see which one.