Lovefordgalaxie

Thanks gentlemen. It was sure the hardest kit I've built to date. Thanks John. This kit I built is from 1976. One year older than me. The kit itself looks older than 1965, it's not to the same standards of the AMT or Jo-Han kits of the early '60s, the proportions are not perfect, and the parts don't fit at all. I would love to see how a Tudor was done. Can only imagine the nightmare involved. I would probably use an AMT body. When I started I couldn't even find pictures of built kits to look at.

Thank you all for the great comments!! With this kit I broke my record. Just over three months on a build THAT was unheard of for me. I usually take a week maybe two to build something. Now I can't believe I built one of those when I was seven years old... Of course, the doors wouldn't open, and it was brush painted, but I managed to get the parts together

A few pictures of the build: 1948 Ford Deluxe W.I.P. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Deluxe W.I.P. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Deluxe W.I.P. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe W.I.P. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe W.I.P. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe WIP by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe WIP by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe WIP. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe WIP. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

I'm working on this Testors '48 Ford for the past three months. The kind of on and off work, as every single part needed to be massaged in some way to fit so so. At this point I'm giving up and calling it good. A little taste of what happened during the build: I bought the kit about three years ago, on evilbay. It was already old, came opened, but I made an inventory and found it to be complete. Well, as I started the build, parts started disappearing. The radiator hoses vanished. Had to make new ones from sprue. The original tires melted inside the box. That's right, melted. The vinyl turned into a gelly gunk. I was disappointed at least, as I wanted to use the most of the original kit's parts as possible, and the tires are the kind of parts that appear a lot. I was going to use AMT tires, but a friend of mine had a set of the original Testors tires from a convertible he hot rodded. Another part that vanished was the pair of taillight lenses. Had to make new ones with 10 minute epoxy painted with Tamiya acrylic transparent red. The last part to turn unusable was the chrome mylar adhesive trim that came with the kit. To remedy that, I made trim out of sheet styrene, glued it to the body, and foiled it. By the way, all foil is candy wrap foil, and foil leave adhesive. The paint is automotive synthetic enamel. Interior, frame and engine were all painted with Model Master acrylics. Well, let's stop talking and start showing some pictures. Here is the finished thing, and I only finished it because I happen to REALLY love Fords. 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1948 Ford Super Deluxe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

Oh boy, that aberration... Looks like a car someone crashed and rebuilt with a salad of parts from different cars. Factory stock 1949 Mercury any day.

On my part, I dislike the very fact it's chopped. For me there isn't such thing as a well done chop job, I like cars the way they were manufactured. For someone like me, that likes factory stock, that kit is basically useless to the purpose of building a Mercury automobile replica. Another kit I'm never gonna buy is the Revell Mercury Wagon. If they couldn't go over the expense of tooling a stock Mercury V8 to include in the kit, I can't go over the expense of buying it, as I would have to ruin a much better AMT kit for the stock engine. As a general rule, if a kit can't be built to replicate a factory fresh and 100% stock automobile, I won't buy it.

That kit is a POS. A car pre-butchered... No option to build stock. No Merc engine, even hot roded. Will NEVER buy that. The AMT kit by other hand, is just superb.

Wouldn't spend a penny on that.

Great looking. A bit underpowered. Amazing to know that the only body parts common to other products of the same brand are the headlight covers. Everything else will only fit this beast. While it's cool, try to find something if you crash it...

Thank you gentlemen!!

Emmanual, the Galaxie on the picture you posted has the light green interior. On the brochure I posted it would be the third from the bottom. The only color interior where the accent is very close to the smooth vinyl in color is the light beige, or Palomino (third from the top).

Sorry, but no Anyway, it's not something hard to fix. At my Flickr I have an album only with brochures for the '66 Fords. Nice source of reference. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovefordgalaxie/sets/72157649929220044/

This is the factory interior colors sheet. Buyer's Digest of New Car Facts for 1966 by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr The smooth vinyl is always the lighter color.

That's the problem with restored cars. They have wrong things. Take a look at this unrestored '66: Galaxie Friends Anniversary by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr Also this one, that is an actaual 7 Litre: 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 7 Litre by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr The darker vinyl, or accent vinyl is perforated while the normal vinyl is not.

Now that's a Car, with a capital C. 7 Litre convertibles are very very rare. Don't worry, the "dog dish" hubcaps were also used on Galaxies (Custom 500s and Country Sedans, to be more precise) and were a common ad on back in the day. They were known as "hi-po" whubcaps. Just one thing: the back of the bucket seats is supposed to be the same color as the seats, not the darker tone of the accents.

I have this kit, but mine is Italery. It has styrene two half tires with separate whitewalls. Hope mine, when I get to it, looks as nice as this one. This one is Tamiya? Are you sure? Sorry!!! Didn't read the other comments... My bad.

Humm. Wheels are not factory equipment...

Thanks gentlemen! I'm kind of posting some old stuff as i'm taking forever to finish my actual build.

I have the opposite problem When I start a build, I can't wait to get it finished... Generally at the expense of adding extra detail. I wish I had more patience, but I'm getting better.

The BMF conspiracy!!!! Soon on a YouTube channel about aliens and general conspiracies next to you!!!

A Autolite 4100 is all you need for a carburetor. 1.08, 1.12, or the rare 1.19, they are all the very best fuel delivery ever conceived. And remember: Carburetor plus points = Anything electronic on a car =

looks good. A little black washing on the grille will make it look even better.

Always did the same. The foil shouldn't break, unless it's sticking badly to the backing paper. If doing so, taking it off would be almost the same as pulling it back after applied. It will break and wrinkle bad.

I think Steve is right. You may have a "bad batch" of foil. The only way you can wrinkle it from peeling it off of the paper is by doing so at a heavy angle. About pulling it by the tip, and breaking the foil, maybe that's another symptom your foil is bad. It may be sticking too much the the backing paper.

No!! that is just the opposite of what I've said. You can't put a heavy angle on the foil when pulling it from the paper!! That's what is ruining it. You have to try to pull the foil without bending it, trying to lift the foil from the paper the most parallel to the paper you can.