Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

1937 Packard V12... a classy blast from the past


Harry P.

Recommended Posts

great build, great color but, red wheels ruin it. classy car with rich lines and styling. the wheels need to reflect the theme of the car. bronze is rich so you got that part right. when you look at a car your eye shouldn't go right at a plain steel wheel. red does that. bronze on the rims, trust me. now all you car guys make me want to cry. yes it's the bleached out whitewalls. nothing looks cheaper, paint them with a good waterbased off white towards a slight cream. with the rim and tire fix this kit would look 10 times more expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another masterful build Harry. Perfect all around yet again.

Although I can't say I'm not disappointed about no WIP. I can't tell you enough how much I look forward to yours. Your at the top of a list of incredible builders here that I always learn more than just a few tips or tricks from their WIP's.

Keep them comin Harry!

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just noticed you're back in the furniture business; did you fab that beautiful black trunk?

Where did the silver filigree latches come from you sly dog...?

The trunk is in the kit. I just foiled all of the hardware and then added a Future/acrylic black wash. At first I was going to build a trunk from scratch, but then I figured let's try working with the kit piece and see how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The trunk is in the kit. I just foiled all of the hardware and then added a Future/acrylic black wash. At first I was going to build a trunk from scratch, but then I figured let's try working with the kit piece and see how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few are hung-up on the red wheels Harry. They just don't 'get' it.

"I painted the wheels red, just because I like the look of the red wheels against the wide whites and the body color. Not "factory correct," but it's my model, so I do it my way! ;)"

The wheels are no more obnoxious than the matching lipstick red of the interior. In fact they coordinate beautifully. They both add to the jaunty character of the car.

I sense that Harry was going for an 'in the day' presentation of the car as driven in the first years of its life; not an over-restored lollypop of today. The gloss seems very commensurate with how they came.

I think, like me, Harry builds models how he'd like his 1:1 to be, if he owned one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

re. post # 55,

Harry what is your recipe for that Future/acrylic wash? And what works best to clean brushes used with Future/Pledge?

I don't have a specific recipe... the mix depends on where the wash will be used and how dark (or subtle) I want it to look, On the engine I want a relatively dark wash to emphasize all the "nooks and crannies" and molded-in detail like the bolt heads on the cylinder heads, for example. So I'll go with maybe 75% Future and 25% black acrylic paint. On areas where I want to emphasize the detail but don't want the wash to be obvious, like on the chrome trim on the tops of the headlights, for example, I'll use more Future, less black. Basically I eyeball it as far as mixing the wash... I've been using washes for a long time, so I sort of "know" when the mix is right. If I make a mistake, I just add a bit more Future (or black). And of course I only mix a very small amount at a time... no sense wasting the Future.

Future is nothing more than clear acrylic, so brush cleanup is just soap and water (I use liquid dishwashing detergent... it's right there on the sink, so it's handy).

BTW... using washes is sort of my "secret weapon." People who look at my models probably don't even realize how extensively I use washes, the model just looks "right." I think that using washes adds a lot of subtle detail and takes away from the "model" look. On this Packard, I used washes on the engine (of course!)... but also on the chrome trim strips on the sides of the hood and the chrome strip on the top of the hood, the chrome trim on the tops of the headlights and turn signals, on the dash gauge panel and steering wheel spokes, on the molded-in bolt detail on the luggage rack brackets, on the wipers, on the bumper guards, the detail on the tops of the driving lights, the trunk hardware and latches... pretty much everywhere!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have a specific recipe... the mix depends on where the wash will be used and how dark (or subtle) I want it to look, On the engine I want a relatively dark wash to emphasize all the "nooks and crannies" and molded-in detail like the bolt heads on the cylinder heads, for example. So I'll go with maybe 75% Future and 25% black acrylic paint. On areas where I want to emphasize the detail but don't want the wash to be obvious, like on the chrome trim on the tops of the headlights, for example, I'll use more Future, less black. Basically I eyeball it as far as mixing the wash... I've been using washes for a long time, so I sort of "know" when the mix is right. If I make a mistake, I just add a bit more Future (or black). And of course I only mix a very small amount at a time... no sense wasting the Future.

Future is nothing more than clear acrylic, so brush cleanup is just soap and water (I use liquid dishwashing detergent... it's right there on the sink, so it's handy).

BTW... using washes is sort of my "secret weapon." People who look at my models probably don't even realize how extensively I use washes, the model just looks "right." I think that using washes adds a lot of subtle detail and takes away from the "model" look. On this Packard, I used washes on the engine (of course!)... but also on the chrome trim strips on the sides of the hood and the chrome strip on the top of the hood, the chrome trim on the tops of the headlights and turn signals, on the dash gauge panel and steering wheel spokes, on the molded-in bolt detail on the luggage rack brackets, on the wipers, on the bumper guards, the detail on the tops of the driving lights, the trunk hardware and latches... pretty much everywhere!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the wash gets messed up, will the mix still come off with Windex?

I'm not sure. I've never tried to remove it after it's dry. Usually I start subtle, then maybe add another coat or two if I want a more obvious look... but I've never tried removing it after it dries. Of course, you can wash it off with water while it's still wet, if you don't like what you see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have taken well-cured Future off clear windshields with a brief soak in slightly warm Windex.

Comes right off with a rinse. As Harry says, you may not want to (or be able to) do that on the model.

Easily removes acrylic craft paints.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love it! The red wheels might be a touch loud, but "ask the man who owns one" B) . BTW where do you find Future now? I have looked all over around here and can't find it anywhere.

Future isn't called Future anymore, For some reason that I don't get, they repackaged the stuff and renamed it. It's the same exact stuff in the bottle, just a new name and look:

'

'http://www.pledge.com/en-US/Products/Pages/floor-care-finish.aspx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...