Clear over decals

[Dirtracer22]

I'm sure this has been discussed bfor but it seems like every time I try to clear over my decals it goes wrong. What's the best ideas for clear coat over decals? I usually use lacquer paint and clear.

[High octane]

Again, why do you need to clear over decals? If you want protection, call Luigi or Giuseppe. Capisce?

[Dave Van]

More info........

kit decals?

aftermarket decals? screen print....aLPS

before application? after??

end result wanted?? appearance? protection?

[Roncla]

As decals can vary from each and every company and clear coats vary in how aggressive they are I always place a piece of decal that wont be used on to a spoon then spray clear over that before committing to clear coating my model.

[Mike_G]

1. If you use Microset, be sure and let the acid dissipate, (which can take several days) or you run the risk of an interaction causing pinholes in the decal.

2. Don't spray a wet coat right off the bat- build up a barrier layer of several light mist coats and let them dry thoroughly before you even think about a wet coat

[Jantrix]

  On 7/6/2015 at 6:48 AM, Mike_G said:

1. If you use Microset, be sure and let the acid dissipate, (which can take several days) or you run the risk of an interaction causing pinholes in the decal.

2. Don't spray a wet coat right off the bat- build up a barrier layer of several light mist coats and let them dry thoroughly before you even think about a wet coat

Very good advice. Due to both of those points I ruined one of the best paint jobs I've ever laid down.

[Dirtracer22]

I'm using kit decals and I mostly just want a better more even look. The decals are to dull and take away from a good paint job. Not sure what you mean nick but I think you must be too complex for me to understand your comment. But thanks.

[Longbox55]

What kit are you working with?

[Mike_G]

  On 7/6/2015 at 1:53 PM, Jantrix said:

Very good advice. Due to both of those points I ruined one of the best paint jobs I've ever laid down.

I had the pinhole issue once, but was able to sand the affected decals off and squirt some more clear and make it all work out

Nothing ever goes completely right

[Pavel A.]

Good results are with Superclear lll, thinned by original gsi thinner with blue label. Yellow label (leveling) make live down layer and it cans destroyed decal. Apply 2-3 thin layer and than wet. But the best result I've got with original clearcoat for cars. 2k (urethane clearcoat). Advantage is that this clearcoat is not agresive to any types of decals so as colors. You can buy it in carlaquers shop or paintshops for few bucks. Here in Slovakia cost 1,5 liter (supplies for all modellers life ) just 21-23 Euro. It is maybe Usd 25.

Edited July 8, 2015 by Pavel A.

[MitchP]

Good points Cap't (guitar reference for reverb?) Most kit instructions I've found lately say wait 48 hours for decals to dry. As for clear, I've got an unopened can of Tamiya ts-13 that will prolly never be used! Testors one coat for shiny and regular Testors for dull coat protection. Just my experiences.

[Mike_G]

  On 7/11/2015 at 10:31 AM, MitchP said:

Good points Cap't (guitar reference for reverb?)

Yes, I'm a surfguitarist.

[Roadrunner]

  On 7/5/2015 at 11:04 PM, High octane said:

Again, why do you need to clear over decals? If you want protection, call Luigi or Giuseppe. Capisce?

But what if I don't know any knuckle draggers?

 

 

Edited July 18, 2015 by Roadrunner

[Roadrunner]

I have a similar dilemma confronting me. To clear, or not to clear, over decals that I'm contemplating using on a current project. I'll proceed very cautiously here, and we'll see what happens.

[crowe-t]

I had 2K Urethane clear coat wrinkle and ultimately destroy decals.  On a previous build I had no problems with Testors Ultra Gloss Clear over ALPS decals.  I applied a couple of light mist coats with my airbrush and then went heavier.  I finished it with a coat or 2 right out of the can.  

Edited March 9, 2017 by crowe-t

[Jim N]

At some point it seems that every clear coat will adversely affect decals.  I have used Future exclusively for about the past 15 years.  It is generally about as inert as one can get, but it has wrinkled a decal or three over the years.

[beeRS]

I have used clear laquer from an aerosol can over kit decals on a project I did over 20 years ago. I went really easy with the first few light coats and then built up with several heavier coats. Then flattened the paint so the decal edge no longer had a step, then applied a last coat of clear. It made a really cool custom paint job. The model is still on my shelf and looks perfect.