Revell 57 Ford Sedan - Starting corrections

[Sledsel]

Well, been doing some wet sanding and finishing of the body. Should have some paint on it this week. Still up in the air on color.

I have mocked up the body/floor and frame. The valance was cut off the floor pan/fender well since it no longer lines up after the changes made.

I want to lower the car, so the front wheel wells need corrected now.

First was to look at the fender wells here in the garage, and now I see where they are off. The inner fender follows the outer fender opening, it should not it is about 3 to 4 scale inches off. 

In this pic, the lower black line should be at the bottom of the solid black area. I am not moving it all up, but I will raise the rear area then add styrene up to the solid black area. A little bit of a cheat, but easier.

The more I work on this kit, the more I shake my head. So far I am using the AMT 57 front fenders, rear quarters, front valance, front bumper, dashboard. 

 I will say, the grill, frame and engine are nice.

 

Edited August 19, 2015 by Sledsel

[bisc63]

Love your attention to detail, and would REALLY love to see more pics of your reference vehicle! Hows about posting some in the 1:1 Car Reference Pictures section of this forum?

[Sledsel]

Well, drivers side is modified and glued in a more correct location. let it dry and a little filler and I'll do the other.

By left - right comparison, you can see that the car can be lowered now.

[Bob Ellis]

Comparing new and old kits based on the same car is a mixed bag. Newer kits have more separate details, but the older ones seem to have better fidelity to shape, in a lot of cases.

[charlie8575]

Comparing new and old kits based on the same car is a mixed bag. Newer kits have more separate details, but the older ones seem to have better fidelity to shape, in a lot of cases.

I think a lot of it is because they had real, art-trained designers who also had good engineers who used their brains, not electronic ones, to back it up.

Some kits, as we've found, have had their own accuracy issues from the days of yore, but they do seem, in most cases, to be much less glaring.

Charlie Larkin

[Sledsel]

I think a lot of it is because they had real, art-trained designers who also had good engineers who used their brains, not electronic ones, to back it up.

Some kits, as we've found, have had their own accuracy issues from the days of yore, but they do seem, in most cases, to be much less glaring.

Charlie Larkin

Agreed

 

[horsepower]

I also think some of it is kind of like remembering that hot cheerleader you lusted after in high school, when you actually get to look at her in the yearbook now you don't really understand what had all the boys trailing along behind her, there are definitely girls the same age who are much hotter today. (I know, we don't really notice them, but we do have to give the grandson tips don't we)

[sbk]

I find this work very interesting, but the photo quality makes it hard to see what's going on. Maybe it's just me, but it's all pretty fuzzy. With all of the heavy duty cutting & splicing that you're doing, it would be great to see it a bit clearer.

[Sledsel]

I find this work very interesting, but the photo quality makes it hard to see what's going on. Maybe it's just me, but it's all pretty fuzzy. With all of the heavy duty cutting & splicing that you're doing, it would be great to see it a bit clearer.

Yea, I need to get a camera and not use my phone...... I'll see if I can change the settings or something.

Any recommendations for decent camera for these type of pics?

 

[Sledsel]

I tried some adjustments, still not the greatest

[Al Hoffman]

I followed the same approach as you. Here is a couple of shots of the end result.

[Sledsel]

I followed the same approach as you. Here is a couple of shots of the end result.

 

Did you raise the wheel well or box it back further? Looks like you opened and boxed back, As long as it works, why not? Kinda how the AMT is and it really does not bother me.

You use the dual quad intake to make the tri-power?  Looks good

 

Edited August 22, 2015 by Sledsel

[Sledsel]

I had hoped for paint this week, but forgot about the tail light bezels. Working on them now.  

I will try to get a decent comparison pic

 

[Sledsel]

pics not great, but there is a shape difference. Need to reshape the top of the quarter also.

After paint it will show better and I hope to have a decent camera then.

Drivers side reshaped and the flatness removed.

[Al Hoffman]

Did you raise the wheel well or box it back further? Looks like you opened and boxed back, As long as it works, why not? Kinda how the AMT is and it really does not bother me.

You use the dual quad intake to make the tri-power?  Looks good

 

I boxed it to the rear. The tire radius was my problem, not the height. I did have to create a hidden lip on the back side of the body fender flange to keep the vertical part of the well lined up with the horizontal fender flange. The spread was too wide overall so I forced it in so both sides would line up. Might want to test fit that.

That is "Replicas & Miniatues of Maryland" Y-block tri-power that was designed for this kit. In addition they offer fender skirts, smooth bumpers & I think a Tuck'n'Roll interior for this kit. Don't think the skirts will work on yours though because they are insert type skirts.

i have this build posted over on"Under the Glass"

[Sledsel]

I'll go over and check it out.

I know that there was an interior for the kit available. I'll have to check them out. Is it a modified bumper from this kit? Reason I ask is the front bumper in this kit is to square and I am going with the AMT parts.

Thanks for the update, I will be doing a lot of test fitting already.

 

[Al Hoffman]

I'll go over and check it out.

I know that there was an interior for the kit available. I'll have to check them out. Is it a modified bumper from this kit? Reason I ask is the front bumper in this kit is to square and I am going with the AMT parts.

Thanks for the update, I will be doing a lot of test fitting already.

As far as I know the kit bumpers were used.

[Sledsel]

okay.... I'll stick with the AMT pieces then.Thanks

I am at it again.... HAHAHAHA

[charlie8575]

Yea, I need to get a camera and not use my phone...... I'll see if I can change the settings or something.

Any recommendations for decent camera for these type of pics?

 

I'm still pretty much a 35mm holdout, but I do have a digital camera for stuff like this, primarily.

I use a Fuji Finepix AX690, and it's a nice camera, and they're not overly expensive. 

The only thing I've found with it is that it's very sensitive to ambient light and color registration.

Charlie Larkin

[Ace-Garageguy]

You don't need to spend a lot of money. All my pix on this thread were shot with an old 4.1 megapixel Nikon Coolpix L4.   http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/65965-mickey-thompsons-challenger-one-still-alive-feb-8/

You can buy the Nikon Coolpix L4 for less than $20 used now. A $10 thrift-store tripod and simple lighting will get you the rest of the way there.

[tabsscale1]

To bad the pictures aren't clearer so you can actually see what as done

 

[Sledsel]

To bad the pictures aren't clearer so you can actually see what as done

 

I am going to resolve that issue when I do my Del Rio

 

[Sledsel]

added color. Color is called Blue Ocean Breeze

[Al Hoffman]

Looks good. The paint laid down nicely. Whose paint did you use and is it base coat, clear coat?

[ZTony8]

I was surprised at the dimensional differences between the parts in the  Revell and AMT kits.I wanted to use some AMT pieces to customize the Revell body(dual headlamp housings,front roll pan/grille housing,tail lamp bezels) but with size and shape differences I'd be looking at something of a putty blob as a finished product.Even the stock bumpers are very different in size.