how to replicate bare metal surface

[misterNNL]

I have a couple projects I would like to paint so they look like a vehicle in bare metal.Any tips,tricks or tutorials out there?Thanks!

[XJ6]

I have a couple projects I would like to paint so they look like a vehicle in bare metal.Any tips,tricks or tutorials out there?Thanks!

You may want to post your Question in Modeling "Questions & Answers section probably get more help there but anyway 

Tamiya has a Spray called Bare Metal Sliver AS-12 if you have a Air Brush check on the Assortment of metalizers

Hope this helps 

Don aka XJ6 ?

[Ace-Garageguy]

I did this one. If you like it, I'll tell you how.

(It was built to represent Thompson's Challenger I as it appeared for its bare-metal press introduction in its first, non-supercharged iteration).

Edited August 14, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[misterNNL]

Bill,that is exactly the look I am after,super smooth surface on worked metal.Thanks.

[Scott Colmer]

I would like to know too. I followed this build. But I can't remember the process you used. 

[Mike Kucaba]

Tamiya has a spray called bare metal in the AS line.Looks convincing to me.

[misterNNL]

Bill,please post a link for the paint process used on your challengers1.I searched but did not find it.Thanks so much.

[Foxer]

This is the last thread from Bill I found on the Challenger, but he never got to explaining his painting .. so please let us all know, Bill!!

[blunc]

does it involve #0000 steel wool?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Sorry. It took a while for me to find my notes on exactly what finally worked for this.

1) I got the bodywork as close to perfect as I could, and then shot the whole thing in a 2-component primer to give a very stable and solvent-resistant base for the surface finish. The 2K primer did require some sanding to get it even 'perfecter'.

2) When I was satisfied with the surface, taken down to 400 grit, I primered the whole thing again with Duplicolor Scratch Filler (high-build) gray primer. I let it dry thoroughly, and found that if I sanded it VERY carefully with 600-grit paper, wet, IN ONE DIRECTION, LIKE A RAW ALUMINUM BODY MIGHT BE DONE, checking frequently, that

3) either Testors buffing metalizer OR Rub-n-Buff could be applied and buffed, and the very fine surface sanding-scratches would show through the silver finish, looking exactly as you see here.

It's a double-barreled bugger to do it with Rub-n-Buff (which this is, mostly) because its not easy to get even coverage, and it fingerprints during handling and application to areas you do after the first area. I applied the Rub-n-Buff with my fingertip and worked it in and spread it as evenly as possible, then polished it up with old fleece sweatshirt material...the inside, soft side. I had to wear a cotton glove on the non-silver-finger hand to keep from getting fingerprints all over it too.

Experiment to see what works best for you. This is only a description of what I found worked on this particular model.

PS. Two years later, it looks just the same.

[Scott Colmer]

Very clever! Prep the primer with the scratches. 

Thanks, Bill!

[Ace-Garageguy]

One more point...when you do the transition from 400 to 600 grit, you need to use some kind of guide-coat to make sure you don't leave any random 400-grit scratches on the surface.

For my guide-coat on this one, I used a fine-bodied rattlecan flat black, just barely misted over the surface. 

And if you want to do a surface that looks like it's been sanded with a DA, think about doing your final sanding with 600 in very small circular motions.

A metal surface that's been sanded with a DA (dual-action) sander will have a more random system of scratches than a custom aluminum body like the Challenger, which had the final surface scratches running in straight lines.

DA-sanded surface ...     

It's rare to see in-progress alloy bodywork that looks this perfect, but it does happen when wizards do the work. Check photos of real cars in progress to judge the realism of the effect you end up with. The shine here (below) can be replicated with Testors metalizers over absolutely perfect bodywork, sanded to about 2000 grit or so, and polished carefully.

[misterNNL]

Super!!Thank you so much for making the extra effort to find your notes(who makes paint job notes!)and sharing your skill with us.I'm sure several builders will be using your methods for their models.

[aurfalien]

Wow, a true master for sure!

This is total experiance and knowledge.  The very complex work flows and methodologies are amazing.  Its almost like a different language.

Monsignor Engwer, may you live long and prosper!