Dave Van Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 Think, first do the roof part, then the sidesThe instructions say to apply sides first!!!! NOT gonna happen. A S&H build is sown my list.....and I may end up painting it....depends how others results of the decal come out.
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 26, 2015 Author Posted September 26, 2015 Oh, the new one is a bit bodged - in addition to the shallower roll at the rocker panel level, the new kit isn't as close as the Jo-Han at the wheel arches either. Undressed, there's a ponderous, thick-waisted quality over the rockers and thru the quarters, and the DLO definitely seems small right now; I'm guessing that foiling the rocker panels and the DLO trim will both visually enlarge the DLO and lean out what's looking a little thick in the middle. The DLO really does seem too tight in radius as it kinks from the belt line back up to the drip molding at the C-pillar.Also, the molding is executed in such a way that the continuity of the upper door character lines into the top edges of the front fenders is broken at the A-pillar, and at some angles, there's the impression of a weird kink upward in the front fenders from the cowl forward.Still and all, the DLO on the MCW ain't even close. And that's why, even with the MCW possibly stronger in other areas, the Revell body gives a much more accurate impression overall.
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 26, 2015 Author Posted September 26, 2015 The instructions say to apply sides first!!!! NOT gonna happen. A S&H build is sown my list.....and I may end up painting it....depends how others results of the decal come out.NO WAY you should do the sides first, even with door handle/lock holes to guide you. Let the roof hoop be your guide...
Luc Janssens Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 (edited) The instructions say to apply sides first!!!! NOT gonna happen. A S&H build is sown my list.....and I may end up painting it....depends how others results of the decal come out. Hmm, how can one assume the correct position (height wise) on the door then? That way it's either too high or too low, maybe for the targeted audience, they better rush and do a pre-paint next BTW taking about pre-paint, just today I bought the '14 Mustang GT pre-paint in a Revell Germany wrapper, as a slump buster and the striping does look good, so it's possible. too bad though; the production facility doesn't clean up the parting lines, with a rotary sanding tool. Ps did the Amt/ertl pre-painted bodies also suffer from parting lines, as I never had one I don't know. Thanks Edited September 26, 2015 by Luc Janssens aditional comments and adding a question
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 26, 2015 Author Posted September 26, 2015 (edited) If you find the decal sheet on page one, the roof/C-pillar stripe is one large piece that lies atop and wraps down to the door separations. THIS should determine how you line up the side stripes that run from the rear door edges forward. Because they're independent of each other side-to-side, they're far more amenable to fine alignment if the roof stripe sets it than the roof stripe would be if the door stripes were applied even slightly out of position first. Which I'm guessing is what you said in the first place, and I thought Dave was agreeing... Edited September 26, 2015 by Chuck Kourouklis
Ryan S. Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 The kit featured in this thread came from Fundemonium Toys, Hobbies & Games in Rohnert Park, California; and at least one other participant here has gotten it from his LHS.The difference is whether or not your LHS is a Revell Preferred Partner (the RPP reference I made in post 1). The RPP shops tend to get the klits earlier as Brett explained before, and "It's not out yet" might just be the company line from the shop, the distributor, or Revell.I don't mean to go off topic, but I had no idea there was a hobby shop over in Rohnert Park. Must be fairly new! I live in Napa and having Loose Caboose Hobbies is great, but other options are good to know of. Thanks Chuck.
Tom Geiger Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 The instructions say to apply sides first!!!! NOT gonna happen. A S&H build is sown my list.....and I may end up painting it....depends how others results of the decal come out.Yea Dave, my first thought would be to tape off and paint the stripe! Luc mentioned that a pre-paint might have been good for the intended audience, maybe so! I never have been a fan of the famous stripe. I don't think it flowed with the body lines, almost fighting the car's design. My impression is that it looks like it was painted in a high school shop class. Yea, I'd want to have it on a model of the TV car since that's the way it was!
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 26, 2015 Author Posted September 26, 2015 I don't mean to go off topic, but I had no idea there was a hobby shop over in Rohnert Park. Must be fairly new! I live in Napa and having Loose Caboose Hobbies is great, but other options are good to know of. Thanks Chuck.Recently relocated from Petaluma!
Sledsel Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 (edited) okay, adding my 2 cents in here, and thats about all it is worth. The Revell looks better that the resin, I know the front of the resin is too "clunky" looking also. As for the Revell window openings, just removing the chrome at the top of the door and C pillar will help, and maybe a smidge more. Do not worry about the chrome anyways, it was optional for the Gran Torino package and not on the S&H cars (maybe on some ordered. but not the movie or series cars) That was on the Elite and Broughams tho The S&H cars had a thin stainless piece with the window whiskers Another easy fix in the lower front fender. The Revell looks straight from the tire to the front bumper. It should slope up from tire to bumper. Little sanding, all is good. Overall the shape is pretty good, and alot of lil kinks can be addressed with some sanding and reshaping. Rockers, not sure, but I will try to address it once in hand. Looking at the above pic I posted, if the rockers and rear quarter are corrected (rolled in) is the bumper out of whack then since it angles like the quarter? Chuck? Edited September 26, 2015 by Sledsel
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 27, 2015 Author Posted September 27, 2015 (edited) By Jove, I think you're onto something there, Andy - just lose the lower molding! Yeah, that might open things up and allow you to widen the turn at the kink a little.I'm also toying with a scheme that grafts nearly all of the front fenders and the lower 2/3 or so on back from the sides of the Jo-Han body into Revell's...Woops, just saw your question this time, went, and had a look. Looks like the bumper wouldn't hug the contour as the 1:1's does at all. Might just see how it lines up on the '72 in a bit... Edited September 27, 2015 by Chuck Kourouklis
Sledsel Posted September 27, 2015 Posted September 27, 2015 Keep us posted Chuck, so far you are the eyes.I am in no way trying to stir the pot.... just asking.IMO, these are issues with the accuracy and ability to correct. I will gladly fix, but not redesign the wheel
Tom Geiger Posted September 27, 2015 Posted September 27, 2015 The earliest releases of this kit have been out barely a week. It might be a bit soon to expect a full build just yet.East Coast Gets It Done-Torino - First Build And a buddy-0-mine from my club too!
Porscheman Posted September 27, 2015 Posted September 27, 2015 Here's my completed build. I like it!!! I dull coated the wheels and painted the body Tamiya Italian red. Nice kit. Al
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 28, 2015 Author Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) East Coast Gets It Done-Torino - First Build And a buddy-0-mine from my club too! Yeah, well this West Coaster has commitments on other (published) projects.But man, the model does look like it cleans up nice! Edited September 28, 2015 by Chuck Kourouklis
Sledsel Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Yeah, well this West Coaster has commitments on other (published) projects.But man, the model does look like it cleans up nice!Yea, looks better built.I may take one and just do the window area and see how it looks. Gonna remove the bumper guards on mine tho. I like the look without and do not like the way Revell did those.
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 28, 2015 Author Posted September 28, 2015 Meantime, best mockup I can manage between the Jo-Han '72 and the S & H bumper: Putting the bumper at about the level as centered as I could, the gaps are about like this.
Sledsel Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Yea, correcting the S&H gives us another dilema. The S&H bumper really needs to be tighter to the body anyways, but I am entering "the rivetcounter zone"
Sledsel Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Chuck, try placing the Johan rear bumper in the S&H tail panel hole.... Hmmmm.... add 72 front and hood, have a formal roof.
keyser Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Yea, looks better built. I may take one and just do the window area and see how it looks. Gonna remove the bumper guards on mine tho. I like the look without and do not like the way Revell did those. Agreed. I think opening bottom up will help. The built also seems to have better tuck in rockers? Will those bumper guards fit the Del Rio?? .
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 28, 2015 Author Posted September 28, 2015 Heh.Jo-Han bumper has tabs that interfere with the solid area in the Revell body shell so I can't get it right in. It does look feasible with a bit of trimming, though.
Sledsel Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Agreed. I think opening bottom up will help. The built also seems to have better tuck in rockers? Will those bumper guards fit the Del Rio?? . Maybe the foil on the trim at the bottom is giving that illusion. I'll send my bumper guards to you can check them.
Allen Wrench Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Let the roof hoop be your guide...In my mind, I'm hearing Aaron Neville sing that ... ?Kepo telling it like it is, Bro. Chuck!
Dave Van Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) Wheelbase is different between the RM kit and the JoHan 72........not much...1/8"....but different.Working on a NASCAR version today......cut out the engine bay and removed trim. Edited September 28, 2015 by Dave Van
Chuck Kourouklis Posted September 28, 2015 Author Posted September 28, 2015 Yup. Mentioned before, little more so with the MPC '72, the wheelbase disparity.
Sledsel Posted September 28, 2015 Posted September 28, 2015 Try to fit the Monogram NASCAR Thunderbird chassis under it. That chassis slips under a lot of other bodies easily.
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