Did this spoon test of C1's metallizer

[Monty]

I've got a number of resin wheels I'd like to use once they've been made to look like polished aluminum or chrome.  I'm kinda interested in this stuff 'cuz it seems to be brighter than the other powder and may hold up better than some other sprays.  

If I can ask a huge favor of those of you who already have some of this stuff, would you mind trying it over the recommended metallic blue base on a resin wheel so I can see if that's the way to go?

[dublin boy]

Here's some of the original Kosutte ginsan powder over metallic blue on the rims.

Please ignore the yellow'd out decals, it was an old kit.

 

Edited October 6, 2015 by dublin boy

[AzTom]

This was my experiment with Kosutte ginsan powder.

The Grill is Kosutte ginsan, the head lights are kit chrome and the bumper is Bare Metal foil. 

 

[PeeBee]

HMMMM.  I'm thinkin' this stuff might work well as a "touch up" for kit chrome that's been cleaned of flash, mold seams and sprue lugs.    

[Mike Chernecki]

I have a similar product from Uschi, but haven't tried it yet. It comes in Chrome, Steel and Iron. I also have the Kosutte ginsan which so far I have only been able to make it look like you rubbed pencil lead dust on the paint.

[Junkman]

I just ordered a tin of C1 Metalizer.

Will report once it arrived, but could someone please explain the different effects of the various base coats?
I always thought a black basecoat is required, but some of you gents seem to have come up with better ideas.
 

[martinfan5]

I was talking to the rep from C1 models at the NNL East in New Jersey this spring and they suggest a metallic blue base coat. I was told by them that of the many color tests they had done for a base coat that the metallic blue seem to give the best depth and closest realism to real chrome. If I remember correctly they had a couple of pictures of the color they used on their website.

That was Chris Hales, he is C1 Models, its a one man operation, you were to talking to the man himself

[Aaronw]

I just ordered a tin of C1 Metalizer.

Will report once it arrived, but could someone please explain the different effects of the various base coats?
I always thought a black basecoat is required, but some of you gents seem to have come up with better ideas.
 

The base coat alters the final color, black is the usual recommendation but you can use others. This is true with paints like Alclad as well as polishing powders. A lot of the aircraft guys who do natural metal finishes will do a patchwork of undercoat colors to provide a subtle variation of color / sheen in the top coat giving the impression of not quite matching metal panels.

[Mr mopar]

There's a good video on you tube .................... kind of reminds me of the old S&J stuff!

[Art Anderson]

On one spoon test, I used a mix of Tamiya's dark blue with some of their Silver Leaf mixed in.  This went on as a flat finish metallic blue.  Once I hit it with the C1, it turned to a really nice darker grey metallic, pretty close to the color and scale texture of grey cast metal.

Art

 

[Junkman]

The base coat alters the final color, black is the usual recommendation but you can use others. This is true with paints like Alclad as well as polishing powders. A lot of the aircraft guys who do natural metal finishes will do a patchwork of undercoat colors to provide a subtle variation of color / sheen in the top coat giving the impression of not quite matching metal panels.

Which base colour would yield the best chrome effect?

[dublin boy]

I find blue is better than black which makes the 'chrome' quite dark, I suppose it depends on the effect you want.

I tried it over yellow and it wasn't fantastic.

[Roncla]

This is the chrome sprue from Revells' 50 Ford F1. To the left is how it came out of the box and on the right half I sprayed it with Tamiya X13 Enamel Metallic blue then applied C1 Models Metalizer.

I get the same result with Kosutte Ginsan and changing the base color will only alter the color of the tint slightly. I can never get anything other than a dark chrome look

[Aaronw]

Which base colour would yield the best chrome effect?

I don't know, I usually use black or grey but I'm going for an aluminum effect, not chrome.

[ChrisBcritter]

This is the chrome sprue from Revells' 50 Ford F1. To the left is how it came out of the box and on the right half I sprayed it with Tamiya X13 Enamel Metallic blue then applied C1 Models Metalizer.

I get the same result with Kosutte Ginsan and changing the base color will only alter the color of the tint slightly. I can never get anything other than a dark chrome look.

Thanks Ron - there's a photo that's worth a thousand words!

[Monty]

This is the chrome sprue from Revells' 50 Ford F1. To the left is how it came out of the box and on the right half I sprayed it with Tamiya X13 Enamel Metallic blue then applied C1 Models Metalizer.

I get the same result with Kosutte Ginsan and changing the base color will only alter the color of the tint slightly. I can never get anything other than a dark chrome look

OK, I'm confused.  Art got brilliant results and you got...that.  Could the difference be in the base paint?  I think Art used lacquer, while you used acrylic.  

[Roncla]

OK, I'm confused.  Art got brilliant results and you got...that.  Could the difference be in the base paint?  I think Art used lacquer, while you used acrylic.  

I used Tamiya enamel as a base on that test and I have tried these metalizers over lacquer and 2K clear coat all with the same result.

These metalizers look like powdered pencil in their containers which I think is why they come out like they do.

If you look at the result they give by themself on a mirror smooth surface they look great with a chrome refection.

Its when you compare them side by side with kit chrome that you see a stark contrast.

I think these metalizers can have a lot of different uses but I don't see them as a way of refurbishing kit chrome that is damaged or worn.

[Art Anderson]

I used Tamiya enamel as a base on that test and I have tried these metalizers over lacquer and 2K clear coat all with the same result.

These metalizers look like powdered pencil in their containers which I think is why they come out like they do.

If you look at the result they give by themself on a mirror smooth surface they look great with a chrome refection.

Its when you compare them side by side with kit chrome that you see a stark contrast.

I think these metalizers can have a lot of different uses but I don't see them as a way of refurbishing kit chrome that is damaged or worn.

One thing to consider:  In real life (as on real cars), chromium plating is darker than any aluminum, polished or anodized--as Aluminum is a very whitish if silvery color, Chromium is slightly bluish in color.  Model car kit plating is actually aluminum, plated on by a vaporizing process in a vacuum tank.

Art

 

[Roncla]

One thing to consider:  In real life (as on real cars), chromium plating is darker than any aluminum, polished or anodized--as Aluminum is a very whitish if silvery color, Chromium is slightly bluish in color.  Model car kit plating is actually aluminum, plated on by a vaporizing process in a vacuum tank.

Art

 

Thats a good point Art. The ' chrome ' sprues that come in our kits are a completely different to real chromed metal.

All these Metalizers and Alclad, Spaz Stix ect give us a good range of products to play with and allow us to achieve a variety of different finishes.

[Art Anderson]

 

Thats a good point Art. The ' chrome ' sprues that come in our kits are a completely different to real chromed metal.

All these Metalizers and Alclad, Spaz Stix ect give us a good range of products to play with and allow us to achieve a variety of different finishes.

Exactly!