cobraman Posted April 8, 2016 Posted April 8, 2016 Wondering whats the best way to remove the chrome only from the center of a wheel without harming the chrome outer rim. I want to be able to paint the center without just painting the chrome which doesn't always hold up.
chunkypeanutbutter Posted April 8, 2016 Posted April 8, 2016 You could tape the rim, maybe double-layered, and use steel wool to remove the inner chrome.
afx Posted April 8, 2016 Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) You might try scraping it Ray. That is what I did with the front turn signals here. I removed the chrome just from the lens to expose the white plastic underneath. Edited April 8, 2016 by afx
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 8, 2016 Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) As an experiment, on the front wheel here I taped the rim very carefully with fine-line tape, then scrubbed the center with Comet, hot water and a toothbrush. It scuffed the surface enough to get decent adhesion from the Testors metalizer I shot dry to get an as-cast finish. It's been several years and it hasn't peeled yet. It helps to RE-MASK after you do the scrubbing, and make sure the tape is well-stuck both times. Edited April 8, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy
cobraman Posted April 8, 2016 Author Posted April 8, 2016 Thanks Bill, that like it would work also. I will try it on my next Cobra build. Like this rod by the way !
Snake45 Posted April 8, 2016 Posted April 8, 2016 I've been painting just selected parts of chrome wheels since the '60s with no problems whatsoever. Paint might not hold up on a chrome part that's getting handled a lot or is subject to some sort of chipping damage, but these things don't apply to the center of a wheel.
cobraman Posted April 9, 2016 Author Posted April 9, 2016 Been building for over 50 years and I have done that also. i just dont think the paint covers as well at least in my efforts. More coats required and detail lost. I suppose it could depend on the wheel design and or the paint used. I just want to try and get a clean center if possible and see if I have better success. I like to use a metallic gray that seems to separate somewhat on the chrome.
MrBuick Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 I wonder how taping the parts off you want to stay chrome and then brushing on some Liquid Gel Drano to the areas you want to remove the plating would work (or whatever your favorite chrome remover is).
slotbaker Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 As Colby suggests, caustic soda in solution usually removes the plating, so how about masking the rim you want to keep chrome with a 'rubber' mask (eg Parma Fasmask), then carefully brush on the caustic to the area you want to strip.Wash thoroughly to remove the caustic residue.Might pay to test on scrap chrome tree to see how it goes.Caustic is a bit nasty, and is a skin irritant, so best to wear disposable gloves, safety glasses, and do in well ventilated area.
cobraman Posted April 9, 2016 Author Posted April 9, 2016 Thank you all for your suggestions. I will have to see what works.
Art Anderson Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 As Colby suggests, caustic soda in solution usually removes the plating, so how about masking the rim you want to keep chrome with a 'rubber' mask (eg Parma Fasmask), then carefully brush on the caustic to the area you want to strip.Wash thoroughly to remove the caustic residue.Might pay to test on scrap chrome tree to see how it goes.Caustic is a bit nasty, and is a skin irritant, so best to wear disposable gloves, safety glasses, and do in well ventilated area.I've done that in the past,with excellent results!Art
peteski Posted April 11, 2016 Posted April 11, 2016 Another vote here for painting over "chrome". Liquid mask will most likely not hold back the lye solution.Think about it , model "chrome" (actually vacuum-deposited aluminum) consists of a clear lacquer or enamel base-coat to make the part mirror smooth, then a few-atom-thick layer of aluminum, then a final clear lacquer/enamel coat to protect the fragile layer of aluminum. So when you paint it, you are actually painting the top layer of clear. The paint will stick to it just fine. Yes, it is more difficult to cover due to the reflective nature of the finish, but the paint will stick just fine.You can prime it first to cover up the shiny finish, then put on the final layer of color. Or use flat paints which cover much better than glossy paints.
MGL Posted April 14, 2016 Posted April 14, 2016 I've recently started giving the chrome a lite coat of Tamiya smoke to tone it down and it seems to take paint for washes and wheel better afterwards. For example, the black in the hubcaps of the 69 F-100 came out looking great. I suspect the smoke spray (I assume its lacquer) gives the paint something to bite.
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