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Removing only some chrome


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You might try scraping it Ray.  That is what I did with the front turn signals here.  I removed the chrome just from the lens to expose the white plastic underneath.

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Edited by afx
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As an experiment, on the front wheel here I taped the rim very carefully with fine-line tape, then scrubbed the center with Comet, hot water and a toothbrush. It scuffed the surface enough to get decent adhesion from the Testors metalizer I shot dry to get an as-cast finish. It's been several years and it hasn't peeled yet.

It helps to RE-MASK after you do the scrubbing, and make sure the tape is well-stuck both times.  

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Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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I've been painting just selected parts of chrome wheels since the '60s with no problems whatsoever. Paint might not hold up on a chrome part that's getting handled a lot or is subject to some sort of chipping damage, but these things don't apply to the center of a wheel.

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Been building for over 50 years and I have done that also. i just dont think the paint covers as well at least in my efforts. More coats required and detail lost. I suppose it could depend on the wheel design and or the paint used. I just want to try and get a clean center if possible and see if I have better success. I like to use a metallic gray that seems to separate somewhat on the chrome.

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As Colby suggests, caustic soda in solution usually removes the plating, so how about masking the rim you want to keep chrome with a 'rubber' mask (eg Parma Fasmask), then carefully brush on the caustic to the area you want to strip.

Wash thoroughly to remove the caustic residue.

Might pay to test on scrap chrome tree to see how it goes.

Caustic is a bit nasty, and is a skin irritant, so best to wear disposable gloves, safety glasses, and do in well ventilated area.

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As Colby suggests, caustic soda in solution usually removes the plating, so how about masking the rim you want to keep chrome with a 'rubber' mask (eg Parma Fasmask), then carefully brush on the caustic to the area you want to strip.

Wash thoroughly to remove the caustic residue.

Might pay to test on scrap chrome tree to see how it goes.

Caustic is a bit nasty, and is a skin irritant, so best to wear disposable gloves, safety glasses, and do in well ventilated area.

I've done that in the past,with excellent results!

Art

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Another vote here for painting over "chrome".  Liquid mask will most likely not hold back the lye solution.

Think about it , model "chrome" (actually vacuum-deposited aluminum) consists of a clear lacquer or enamel base-coat  to make the part mirror smooth, then a few-atom-thick layer of aluminum, then a final clear lacquer/enamel coat to protect the fragile layer of aluminum.  So when you paint it, you are actually painting the top layer of clear.  The paint will stick to it just fine. Yes, it is more difficult to cover due to the reflective nature of the finish, but the paint will stick just fine.

You can prime it first to cover up the shiny finish, then put on the final layer of color. Or use flat paints which cover much better than glossy paints.

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I've recently started giving the chrome a lite coat of Tamiya smoke to tone it down and it seems to take paint for washes and wheel better afterwards. For example, the black in the hubcaps of the 69 F-100 came out looking great. I suspect the smoke spray (I assume its lacquer) gives the paint something to bite.

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