Okay now my questions start rolling in

[JerseeJerry55]

Since I haven't built a car in 30 years here's my first of probably many questions. As I'm sure many of you remember car windshields and rear windows were connected and if I remember correctly you glued the connector to the roof. Easy right? But I did a lot of model trucks back in the day and gluing the separate windshields WAS A PAIN. Fogging, glue marks, not enough glue. It was enough to drive me to drink. Now fast forward 35+ years and my fear returns. I have read that the new car kits have separate windshield AND rear window so how do I eliminate the dreaded glue marks. Which adhesive (glue) is sturdy enough yet fumble fingered foolproof for even me? Sorry if the is a ridiculous question but I want to do it correctly. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.

[Richard Bartrop]

Personally, I like epoxy for attaching clear parts.  It doesn't attack the plastic, or plaint, abd you do have a little time to wipe up any smudges.  The lack of plastic fogging fumes is especially nice for gluing things like lenses.

[JerseeJerry55]

How does it get applied? Do you just attach the windshield/rear window in spots or take a toothpick and apply in a straight line? Any specific brands you'd recommend?

[cobraman]

I normally use Krystal Klear adhesive on windows and small body parts like mirrors.

[Mike Kucaba]

Several adhesives come to mind. Acrylic clear paint is one I've used. Beware of the 5 minute stuff as it will yellow.

I have in my stash some 90 second epoxy that I have yet to try. There are several adhesives specially made like Formula 5XX canopy glue, testors clearparts cement , and a watch crystal glue whoose name escapes me.

[JerseeJerry55]

I normally use Krystal Klear adhesive on windows and small body parts like mirrors.

Is Krystal Klear sturdy? I don't want to risk someone picking it up and voila I get a " Gee I'm sorry but I put your windshield in the front seat".

[Longbox55]

Another option, fairly new to the market, would be Bondic. It's a UV cure bonding agent, it cures crystal clear and can be cured through the window glass and other clear/transparent plastics.

http://notaglue.com/

 

[cobraman]

Is Krystal Klear sturdy? I don't want to risk someone picking it up and voila I get a " Gee I'm sorry but I put your windshield in the front seat".

I never had a problem but once finished my models go in a cabinet and do not get handled.

[Harry P.]

It all depends on how the glass installs, and how well it fits. On some kits the glass installs from the front and sits in a channel. Other models, the glass installs from the inside. And of course, the fit of the glass varies from kit to kit.

If the glass fits well, a very easy way to "glue" it in place is to use a small brush to flow clear acrylic along the edges. If the glass needs to be forced into place to fit, that method won't work. In that case, I would clamp the glass in place with small plastic spring clamps and flow a little liquid cement along the edges. Be careful not to get any of the cement on the surface of the glass.

[Rider]

I also use Krystal Clear, it is pretty tough stuff and remains flexible once cured. The only draw back is it is water based so moisture and hi humidity environment might effect if. But no worries re your question on the handling concern.

[Harry Joy]

I use thick CA glues for all glasswork, whether it is a car or an airplane or science fiction/fact.

I give the clear parts a dip in Future, let it set a few days, and go to work. The clear parts will not fog. If I screw up and get glue on the clear part, I pop it out, soak it in Windex to remove the Future (and the glue). The repeat from the very first step.

Never really got why this is so mysterious, but I'd say 90+% of my real life modeling buds think I am insane. But I have never had a catastrophe because of CA + Future.

[Tom Geiger]

I also use Krystal Clear, and it is water based which means you can wipe off any smears with a wet Q-tip.  I also use a 2 sided clear tape that was designed for scrap book folks.  I get it at Michaels.

 

Jerry if you are serious about learning to build better models, come to our club!  I found that when I started going to club meetings my model skills instantly multiplied.  It's not all skill, much of what you need is just to learn about products and how anyone can use them.  

 

The Tri-State Scale Model Car Club meets 2nd Saturday of each month in Perth Amboy, NJ.    We are not meeting this month due to a conflict with the MidAtlantic NNL in Maryland.  But we'll be back next month!   Here's our website...   www.tssmcc.org

 

 

 

[MGL]

Personally, I like epoxy for attaching clear parts.  It doesn't attack the plastic, or plaint, abd you do have a little time to wipe up any smudges.  The lack of plastic fogging fumes is especially nice for gluing things like lenses.

I use the testers canopy glue, its essentially white glue just like I believe the Krystal Klear, and other similar products but I recently started using a couple drops of Loctite 5 minute clear epoxy applied with a toothpick after the glue sets up. Its especially effective on windows that don't fit tight enough to hold themselves in place. With either one I usually put the window in and then use the glue or epoxy more as a caulk just around the edge rather than in the channel or between the tabs and the body.

[dshue76]

I use Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Dries clear. and works well. I also use it for gluing fine detail painted parts. mistakes or excess can be cleaned with water before it dries. 

[espo]

Since I haven't built a car in 30 years here's my first of probably many questions. As I'm sure many of you remember car windshields and rear windows were connected and if I remember correctly you glued the connector to the roof. Easy right? But I did a lot of model trucks back in the day and gluing the separate windshields WAS A PAIN. Fogging, glue marks, not enough glue. It was enough to drive me to drink. Now fast forward 35+ years and my fear returns. I have read that the new car kits have separate windshield AND rear window so how do I eliminate the dreaded glue marks. Which adhesive (glue) is sturdy enough yet fumble fingered foolproof for even me? Sorry if the is a ridiculous question but I want to do it correctly. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.

After test fitting and any sanding you feel is needed, you can usually hold the "window" in place with small pieces of tape. I'll use either Testors clear cement or Jewel-It that I picked up at JoAnns Fabrics. It is designed to attach beads and such to pants and other fabrics, they say it will even hold when put thru the wash so it's very strong. On head lights I'll use Future floor shine as it will not show at all and will give the head lamp a very shiny look. This will also work well for tail lights.   

[unclescott58]

I use Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Dries clear. and works well. I also use it for gluing fine detail painted parts. mistakes or excess can be cleaned with water before it dries. 

Dito. Been using the stuff for years. One of the few Testor products I like.

[crazyjim]

Testors Klear glue or Canopy 500 glue.  The airplane guys use it and dries clear.