Lacquer over Pledge Floor Care Finish?

[69NovaYenko]

While we are on the topic of Pledge Floor Care Finish has anyone used it on windshields and other car glass? If so do you dip or brush it on? Have had problems with it pooling on the windshield with the dipping method lately.

Edited July 6, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[aurfalien]

While we are on the topic of Pledge Floor Care Finish has anyone used it on windshields and other car glass? If so do you dip or brush it on? Have had problems with it pooling on the windshield with the dipping method lately.

Welp, I dipped my head light covers in it and placed on a paper towel to absorb drippings.  In terms of pooling, I kept a close eye on em and used a paper towel corner to get more access when needed.

[peteski]

Well, I can see Snake45's point about future being an inferior top clear coat for model cars. While Future results in a decent glossy finish, it can't be sanded and polished like standard clear lacquers or enamels. Many modelers strive for a mirror-like glossy finish. They get there by first building up a thicker layer of clear, then spend hours sanding and polishing it until it shines like glass.  You can't build up a thick coat of Future and then sand/polish it to the same level of shine as you can with other clears.

[Snake45]

Well, I can see Snake45's point about future being an inferior top clear coat for model cars. While Future results in a decent glossy finish, it can't be sanded and polished like standard clear lacquers or enamels. Many modelers strive for a mirror-like glossy finish. They get there by first building up a thicker layer of clear, then spend hours sanding and polishing it until it shines like glass.  You can't build up a thick coat of Future and then sand/polish it to the same level of shine as you can with other clears.

Yeah, that's definitely one of my Top Five Least Favorite Things about Future. When I've tried to polish it, it just breaks up and flakes away.

Others have already mentioned some of my other objections: Runs/sags/drips/air bubbles; milkiness/haze with humidity, and so forth.

Look, the stuff was designed to be poured on a floor, spread around with a sponge mop, and viewed from five feet. And then removed with ammonia two weeks later and a new coat put on.

[Mike_G]

I think Future looks kind of thick and syrupy and prefer the appearance of sanded and polished lacquer

[aurfalien]

I dunno guys, Harry has amazing results, looks perfect to me.

I think it's all in application but then again I'm just starting to use the stuff.  One thing for sure, it smells good

 

[Harry P.]

 One thing for sure, it smells good

That's true!

[Harry P.]

Yeah, that's definitely one of my Top Five Least Favorite Things about Future. When I've tried to polish it, it just breaks up and flakes away.

Ok, I think I have finally figured out why Rich doesn't like Future as a clear coat.

Yes, it doesn't lend itself to polishing. But the types of models I build don't have that miles deep, "dipped in syrup" look. I try to recreate the appropriate gloss level that is accurate for the era of the model, so Future works perfectly for me.

Yeah, if you want that glass-like show car shine, Future probably isn't the best way to go, there are better alternatives. But for what I build, it works perfectly.

To each his own.

[Snake45]

I think Future looks kind of thick and syrupy and prefer the appearance of sanded and polished lacquer

I know exactly what you mean and that's also in my Top Five. I call it a "candy-coated" look.

Worst I've ever seen this was on a Monogram F4U-4 Corsair I built in the '80s. I airbrushed it a flat dark blue, and then tried to achieve the look of '50s USN Glossy Sea Blue with Future. Forget whether I brushed or airbrushed it, but by the time I had a uniform gloss on the whole airplane, the model looked "candy coated" and not even close to realistic. A couple years ago I couldn't stand looking at it any more (didn't help that it wasn't the right shade of blue, either) and stripped and repainted it in proper Model Master FS35042 Glossy Sea Blue. Much better!

[Snake45]

Ok, I think I have finally figured out why Rich doesn't like Future as a clear coat.

Yes, it doesn't lend itself to polishing. But the types of models I build don't have that miles deep, "dipped in syrup" look. I try to recreate the appropriate gloss level that is accurate for the era of the model, so Future works perfectly for me.

Yeah, if you want that glass-like show car shine, Future probably isn't the best way to go, there are better alternatives. But for what I build, it works perfectly.

To each his own.

That's just one of the reasons. Actually I find Future in many cases to be TOO glossy. And I can't put it into words, exactly, but it's not a "realistic" type of gloss to my eye, either. It always looks...well, it looks like Future.

Truth to tell, these days I try to get by without clearcoat if at all possible. I routinely polish all solid colors and even some metallics, if tests indicate I can get away with it. That's if I'm going for a gloss at all--these days I'm doing more stuff in primer, satin coats, and weather-beaten paint.

[OldNYJim]

On 7/4/2016 at 6:04 PM, MrObsessive said:

Yes, I stand by Future as my go to item when I need to prevent something from crazing or bleed through. BIN Zinsser Sealer is another good one, and it's what I actually prefer to use as it's easier to apply with an airbrush than the Future-----especially for bodywork.

Another thing I found out about Future.......for some reason super glue doesn't play nice with Alclad paint----at least the times I've used it. I use super glue sometimes to fill in sink marks and whatnot on exhausts and such, and when Alclad is airbrushed over it, it tends to show through. Brushing a coat or two of Future stops that in its tracks so I recommend it for that also.

An old topic Bill, but I respect your opinion…do you like to use the Future right over the plastic if you’re using it as a sealer, and then prime and paint as normal?  

[MrObsessive]

35 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

An old topic Bill, but I respect your opinion…do you like to use the Future right over the plastic if you’re using it as a sealer, and then prime and paint as normal?  

Yup................especially anything that might have Alclad on it for example because it's so hot. As I mentioned above in one case I used a little bit of super glue as a filler (small area on a muffler), went to paint it with Alclad and the filled in area stuck out like a sore thumb. I stripped it, coated it with Future, let it dry, painted it again, and you couldn't see the filler.

Nowadays, I don't use it for whole bodies, as I'd much rather use BIN-Zinsser Sealer which is like a shellac. The canned stuff as opposed to the spray as that goes on way too thick. I airbrush it on over a light coat of primer, the primer again and paint.

[OldNYJim]

22 minutes ago, MrObsessive said:

Yup................especially anything that might have Alclad on it for example because it's so hot. As I mentioned above in one case I used a little bit of super glue as a filler (small area on a muffler), went to paint it with Alclad and the filled in area stuck out like a sore thumb. I stripped it, coated it with Future, let it dry, painted it again, and you couldn't see the filler.

Nowadays, I don't use it for whole bodies, as I'd much rather use BIN-Zinsser Sealer which is like a shellac. The canned stuff as opposed to the spray as that goes on way too thick. I airbrush it on over a light coat of primer, the primer again and paint.

That’s super helpful - thank you sir!  Working on an old Johan kit which I’ll be painting with a Scale Finishes lacquer, and I’d really like to not ‘crinkle’ anything!

Appreciate the reply!

[Misha]

18 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

Nowadays… I'd much rather use BIN-Zinsser Sealer which is like a shellac. The canned stuff as opposed to the spray as that goes on way too thick. I airbrush it on over a light coat of primer, the primer again and paint.

I was curious Bill about how you thin Bin-Zinsser, what type of thinner and the ratio used when using it from the can. Also what would the ratio be for decanted sealer?

Thanks and cheers Misha

[MrObsessive]

1 hour ago, Misha said:

I was curious Bill about how you thin Bin-Zinsser, what type of thinner and the ratio used when using it from the can. Also what would the ratio be for decanted sealer?

Thanks and cheers Misha

I have no idea about the decanted ones........I don't like 'em----too thick! You shouldn't have to thin it straight out of the can as I've used my Crescendo airbrush with no trouble. I'd think you could probably use 91% alcohol if you needed to do that, but I've never had to thin it at all.

[peteski]

Shellac is alcohol-based,and can be thinner with full-strength alcohol.  Denatured alcohol (Ethanol) should work well.  Methanol also works well. Do a Google search for "shellac thinner". Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will not work as well, and should be over 91% strength.

Edited May 29, 2022 by peteski