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Posted (edited)

After everything is solidly dry, we cut the ends of the forward rails off, remove the original crossmember, and sit the body on the frame. We can measure exactly how high the perch for the suicide front end needs to be because we already put a temporary cross-piece inside the body to let it sit on the frame EXACTLY where we want it.

DSCN0317_zps4ohslbg3.jpg

DSCN0321_zps99j2hrpr.jpg

With the mockup now sitting on the roughed-in front perch and spring, we see how the traditional hairpin radius rods will fill the visual void left by the frame rails being relocated upwards due to the zee.

DSCN0322_zpsk9lcbuw0.jpg

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

Hmmmm...definitely an interesting idea. I don't have any small diameter aluminum discs, but I DO have a hole-punch the will do several different diameters in styrene sheet.

This needs some looking into... :D

punch out some styrene discs in the sizes you need, you can paint them aluminum and once they're all assembled the only part showing will be that edge, and then use an aluminum detail pulley of the right diameter to make it look right, maybe a power steering or harmonic balancer face will work for you.

Posted

Can't go wrong with any Barney parts that's for certain. I've been a fan of his since I saw his stuff in Hot Rod.

 

 

You've been a busy guy Bill. My bench time is coming soon as my new hobby room is almost finished.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Mock up looks great. You nailed the look.

Yes indeed. Some very cool stuff!

Nice progress.  This build is providing me with some real inspiration for my '30 Ford kits!

Thanks gentlemen !    Once I get some primer issues worked out, I'll be back on several of these.

The solvent-sensitivity of the plastics that kits are molded from these days has been playing jell with my old standby Duplicolor primer method.

Steve Guthmiller suggested a first coat of Tamiya primer followed by Duplicolor, so I'll be experimenting with that technique for a while.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Great Tutorial Bill.

I've printed this post and put it in my binder named ..  Tips from Pros !! 

I have half a dozen 30's, 32's & 34's to build and this will help with the 30's Rat Rod I plan to build.

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Posted

Yeah, the blower in the old AMT'57 Chebby looks pretty good, I agree, but it's not really accurate for a S.C.o.T unit...not enough fins on the housing. I've been working on figuring out what the AMT kit unit looks the most like in 1:1. The S.C.o.T blower is shown below, on a flathead Ford manifold.

                        Image result for scot blower

The GMC 3-71 and 4-71 units were popular in the early post-war days and well into the '50s on flatheads.

Barney Navarro is usually credited with being the first guy to run the venerable GMC unit, pirated from a surplus landing craft engine, on this dry-lakes racer in 1948.  

                                                 Image result for barney navarro GMC blower

The problem I'm running into on all my old-school blower setups is doing the multi-V-belt drives that were common before the Gilmer belts took over. This is Navarro's 3-71 equipped engine. The V-belts were a problem for him too.  ;)     I may just use a chain drive to get this one done without having to machine a bunch of tiny pulleys.

                   Image result for barney navarro GMC blower

check out those holley 94's (or strombergs) !! 4 of them!!!

the GMC almost dwarfs the flattie

love it!!!!!

Posted

Great Tutorial Bill.

I've printed this post and put it in my binder named ..  Tips from Pros !! 

I have half a dozen 30's, 32's & 34's to build and this will help with the 30's Rat Rod I plan to build.

Thanks!

Glad you found it useful. Here's a couple more you might find handy to refer to.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/59708-32-ford-roadster-gluebomb-rework-sept-8-15-back-on-track/

 

Posted

How's the progress on her Bill???

I got bogged down on several recent and fairly recent Revell-based builds when I began having bad crazing issues with Duplicolor primers...which is the primary reason I've been concentrating on the little M/SP Corvette, the big 1/8 '32 and the old-school rail job. Due to the nature of the builds, crazing of the plastic by the primers won't really have any effect, as it will all sand out without obliterating details.

As soon as I have a 100% reliable primer solution, a few long-stalled builds will recommence. :D

Posted

I got bogged down on several recent and fairly recent Revell-based builds when I began having bad crazing issues with Duplicolor primers...which is the primary reason I've been concentrating on the little M/SP Corvette, the big 1/8 '32 and the old-school rail job. Due to the nature of the builds, crazing of the plastic by the primers won't really have any effect, as it will all sand out without obliterating details.

As soon as I have a 100% reliable primer solution, a few long-stalled builds will recommence. :D

Sa-weet, can't wait to see this come alive again!!!!! Always like seeing your builds. Like your style!!!!!

Posted

The thing I like about your threads, Bill, is that not only do I get to see an awesome model come together, but I learn so much in the process.

 

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