gtx6970 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 (edited) The lightest of the greens is F3 , IMO is not the best of the bunch . In person its really looks washed out Edited August 14, 2016 by gtx6970 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 The final one is F6 Spring green which was a mid year introduction and is a very in your face green . Its slightly different color than the 99 code Plymouth version of the same year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 I think this might be F5 , the medium green I'm pretty sure you're right. It's in the ballpark with Pontiac Verdoro Green. That's what I was going for on my '69 Road Runner back in the day with the AMT Surf Green. (Why AMT called that color Surf Green is beyond me. I've never seen a surf, or anything IN a surf, that color. A stagnant pond, maybe. They had a beautiful light bluish-green that should have been called the Surf Green. I forget what that one was called.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
om617 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 This is going to be good. I love those green on Mopars from this era. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 The lightest of the greens is F3 , IMO is not the best of the bunch . In person its really looks washed out I guess tastes are different. I like this the best of all of them. I absolutely do not like the "Spring Green", & the F5 looks a little too much like an army truck. Never really liked dark greens either. Now I think I remember why I ordered the one I did. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
om617 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Got this one in progress,i think it is a very close color to the 69. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Just a small update. I started doing a little prep this morning, & I took Bill Geary's suggestion to heart. I leveled off the rear quarter window sill & it made a very big difference. Thank you Bill. There's a good possibility I may not have noticed this before paint. Steve Before After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Oh my yes, that makes an ENORMOUS difference!Why this is such a problem area for kitmakers I have no idea, but I can think of at least six or eight models right offhand that don't have this area right, and once you notice it, that's all you see.Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 AAAAAHH! MUCH better Steve! Now those quarter windows will have the shape we all know and love! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Now I'm trying to tackle what is probably the worst aspect of these MPC Coronet kits. That horrible "cut out" in the hood! The cut out area is so thin that there were actually places where there were pinholes all the way to the surface. A really stupid design! What I did was fill the recesses on the back side with super glue and plastic stock. hopefully that will fill it in well enough to prevent any "ghosting" problems when it comes time to paint. You can see how thin the plastic is by how the black plastic filler shows through in the second photo. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I dunno Steve......if it were me I'd barrier the heck out of that using either Future, or BIN Zinsser sealer. I say this because I tried what you did there on a '55 Ford Victoria I was working, and filled in the hood with as much plastic as possible. I also did this to the roof which was heavily modified from a Lindberg '53 kit and after everything was said and done, it looked perfect. Or so I thought.......... A few weeks down the road after the paint had fully cured and I could see where I did the bodywork, and it sits to this day. I'll redo the car someday, but it'll involve a complete teardown of the doors and hinges and windows, as I would strip the body clean and start over. Just a caution as you know you've had trouble with hoods in the past! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 Just a caution as you know you've had trouble with hoods in the past! The trouble I've had recently with hoods was just basically dumb luck with the paint. Nothing like this. Normally I don't have a lot of trouble with these type of cut outs because of the multiple primer coats that I use. The plastic is usually sealed up very well by the time I start shooting color. But this one is so thin that I'll want to make sure to take any precautions I can. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge5522 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Cool color I had several of there 1:1 in school I drove a green on green with 440 himi built and it would jury up and drag it's back bumper man those where the days lolo I am only 44 I grow up in the right era Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 (edited) Looking good, I wish I still had the couple I had. Just curious, something that bothers me with the AMT/MPC 1970 Super Bee which I believe is based on this one originally. If you look at each side of the car in the door area, one side is rounded properly from the rocker panel up to the bottom of the side window. The other side is flattened in the middle of the door. I noticed this after applying a beautiful Plum Crazy paint, I thought I over sanded on one side causing this, but starting over with the latest release of the kit shows the same problem. Does that same problem exist with the 1969 body? Also, I notice as in the 1970 Super Bee kit, the upper quarter panel body line is not suppose to carry though the door above the door handle. The picture below shows how it ends at the door. Easy to sand off and makes a huge difference. Edited August 19, 2016 by Mike Chernecki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Looking good, I wish I still had the couple I had. Just curious, something that bothers me with the AMT/MPC 1970 Super Bee which I believe is based on this one originally. If you look at each side of the car in the door area, one side is rounded properly from the rocker panel up to the bottom of the side window. The other side is flattened in the middle of the door. I noticed this after applying a beautiful Plum Crazy paint, I thought I over sanded on one side causing this, but starting over with the latest release of the kit shows the same problem. Does that same problem exist with the 1969 body? Also, I notice as in the 1970 Super Bee kit, the upper quarter panel body line is not suppose to carry though the door above the door handle. The picture below shows how it ends at the door. Easy to sand off and makes a huge difference. I checked those door lines on the '69 & I'm not seeing any difference between the two sides. Just to be sure I took a few quick measurements & everything seems to check out. I see what you're talking about with the body line on the door though. Thanks Mike, you just made more work for me! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Here is an image of my Super Bee to illustrate what I am talking about (red curves). The drivers side is curved, while the passenger side is flatter in the center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Here is an image of my Super Bee to illustrate what I am talking about (red curves). The drivers side is curved, while the passenger side is flatter in the center. Ok Mike, I see what you mean.I looked at the '69 & there might be a little of that going on with the passenger side, but it's difficult to really tell.I think the culprit may be that the passenger side of the vehicle is where the body was attached to a sprue at the bottom during the molding process.You can see this by the big plastic blobs on the inside of the body along the rocker panel.Chances are that this caused the body to flatten slightly on that side.Mine has a sink mark in that area at the lower rear fender.And, as we know, these anomalies usually only get accentuated over time as the mold gets older.I'm sure that the '68 mold was modified to become the '69 & then the '70, so I'm sure this mold has been around a very long time.Anyway, I'm not letting that bother me.It's nearly imperceptible to me. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Just wanted to warn you, I never noticed it until I a nice glossy finish on the body. You are probably right, there is some shrinkage or distortion going on there from the huge sprue attachment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevjoh Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Have been looking for the decal RT rear stripe, any help tracking it down would be helpful. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 (edited) Have been looking for the decal RT rear stripe, any help tracking it down would be helpful. thanks Fred Cady has '69 Charger 500, R/T & Super Bee decals. I'm debating as to whether I should use these, paint my own, (minus the "R/T" logo) or just leave them off altogether. Steve Edited August 20, 2016 by StevenGuthmiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Well, I think all of the body mods & priming are done! I took Bill Geary's advice & modified the rear window openings & Mike Chernecki's suggestion & removed the body line from the doors. I think it helped greatly to improve the overall appearance of the body. A couple of coats of primer and a couple of primer/sealer, and I think it's looking fairly presentable. I'm really looking forward to color coats on this one! I'm hoping that will begin tomorrow. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 sharp ! will be awsome with some paint on !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Lookin' Good Steve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar - D Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Nice progress Steven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Fred Cady has '69 Charger 500, R/T & Super Bee decals. I'm debating as to whether I should use these, paint my own, (minus the "R/T" logo) or just leave them off altogether. Steve Go outside the box. Use the RT emblems from the Revell 68-69 Charger and make it a stripe delete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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