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1969 Dodge Coronet R/T, 10/17, So Close I Can Taste It!!


StevenGuthmiller

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Steve, I use Duplicolor clear in the Black can..The Blue can just doesn't dry right..I says acrylic enamel on the tin but dries and hardens like lacquer..I haven't tried it over enamel but will soon on a painted 61 Dodge I bought off the bay years ago..If it works okay but if it doesn't, looks like I will be painting another model...

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Steve, I use Duplicolor clear in the Black can..The Blue can just doesn't dry right..I says acrylic enamel on the tin but dries and hardens like lacquer..I haven't tried it over enamel but will soon on a painted 61 Dodge I bought off the bay years ago..If it works okay but if it doesn't, looks like I will be painting another model...

The clear that I use is Duplicolor "Perfect Match" "Protective Clear Coat Finish".

It's an "Acrylic Lacquer".

You definitely would not want to use it over anything other than lacquer.

I've had pretty good luck with it for the most part, but for some reason have had this slow curing problem on just a couple of projects.

That's what leads me to believe that it may have just been a bad can.

I also use Duplicolor "Paint Shop Clear" on occasion.

It comes in a quart can & is pre-thinned & ready to spray with an airbrush.

It is also a lacquer & works quite well.

I just decided not to dirty my airbrush for this build. ^_^

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN5406_zpsg5l2yiza.jpg

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Oh my yes, that makes an ENORMOUS difference!

Why this is such a problem area for kitmakers I have no idea, but I can think of at least six or eight models right offhand that don't have this area right, and once you notice it, that's all you see.

Well done!

It may have to do with the shape required vs. what the cutting tools are capable of doing. It might also be a matter of what will work in the mold for contour.

It could also be simple human error.

Charlie Larkin

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I have to say, Steve, this is most impressive.

Regarding the drying of lacquer, if it's been exceptionally humid out your way, the solvents in the lacquer might not be evaporating properly.

I've run into a lot of trouble with the "Perfect Match" paints. To the point where I won't even use them anymore unless I absolutely must.

Charlie Larkin

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I have to say, Steve, this is most impressive.

Regarding the drying of lacquer, if it's been exceptionally humid out your way, the solvents in the lacquer might not be evaporating properly.

I've run into a lot of trouble with the "Perfect Match" paints. To the point where I won't even use them anymore unless I absolutely must.

Charlie Larkin

Very true Charlie.

We've had enough rain in my area this summer, to the point that building an ark has crossed my mind. :P

I've had relatively good luck with perfect match paints, but I pretty much only use clear.

I do use solid colors like red, black & white on occasion, & to this point, have been happy with the results.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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The one I use is in a large Duplicolor can with a black coloring..I do use the Perfect Match paints though..How does PM clear look when you shoot it from the can?  Is there much polishing/wet sanding to do..

As with anything Wayne, it depends greatly on what's underneath. :)

In general, it looks pretty good, but in my opinion, not as shiney as something like Testors clear.

But it's much more durable than Testors & after some of the problems I've had with Testors, I no longer use it.

The Perfect Match polishes out pretty nicely.

This photo is right after spraying with no polishing.

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN5343_zpsl4oqivul.jpg

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Decals for the gauge faces ?

Yes!

First time in........forever! :D

As you know Bill, gauge face decals are a real rarity when you're dealing with these old annuals.

Luckily, I recently got some decals from another member, (Casey) which were from the Revell '69 Charger.

They were a little small for these gauges but you'll never be able to tell.

I didn't apply them as decals, I just cut them out & glued them directly into the opening with the backing paper still intact & then used the Laser Bond over the top.

Now if I could only find gauge decals for my next 30 builds! :D

Funny you should mention the color.

Believe it or not, the color is Testors # 1913 flat military "Medium Green" shot straight from a rattle can, & then over coated with a light coat of pearl.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Love this build. Here is a picture of my 1:1 68 Coronet 500 convertible restoration in process. I took this exact car to prom 30 years ago.

If is FF1 green with the original green top and a white/green bucket seat interior.

I added a power bulge hood and wheels (not the ones shown in the picture) but the car will be otherwise stock with a 318/904 and all of the 500 trim.

I have a small stash of MPC 68 & 69 R/T built kits that I got back in the early 80's that need to be restored. I wish someone would resin cast a better 1/25 grille assembly for the MPC 69. The original kit piece has always bothered me.

Carmak

68 Coronet 500.jpg

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The one I use is in a large Duplicolor can with a black coloring..I do use the Perfect Match paints though..How does PM clear look when you shoot it from the can?  Is there much polishing/wet sanding to do..

i use a brand of clear from a can that always becomes suer super smooth , only available here but i tried polishing mine ounce and that was a bad idea .. went dull ..i think the automotive clear can be polished .. i recommend a test spray and polish on something else :)

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Great work Steven, I'm just learning how to do model cars after doing model aircraft for a good 20 years. Your work and attention to detail is outstanding, hopefully I will pick up some pointers from you. Thank you for sharing your work.

                                                                                                                      Best regards, Steve Cook

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Finally finished up the interior today!

I guess I'm fairly happy with the results.

There were parts from several kits thrown together for this one, so things didn't always go as smoothly as I'd like, but not too bad.

The tub, seats & console came from the original MPC annual.

The dash was from the more recent AMT '70 Super Bee kit, & the steering wheel & column were from The Revell '68 Charger.

The dash was slightly modified on suggestion from some other forum members.

I appreciate their input greatly.

The air conditioning vents were eliminated & the dash pad was slightly modified to remove some of the "point" from the center.

I also added a "grille" to the dash top, & a PE button for the glove box.

Clutch & brake pedals were added as well as a shifter to change it from an automatic to a 4 speed car.

For the first time I decided to try the "pantyhose material" trick on the rear package shelf.

Not 100% accurate looking, but it adds some texture & interest.

The wood grain detail is of course, that 50 year old decal that I found. :P

I also "flocked" the carpet, added cast window cranks & homemade door lock buttons.

Now it's on to foiling the body & then engine & chassis work.

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN5442_zps625ft2gc.jpg photo DSCN5436_zpsitfmrwan.jpg photo DSCN5448_zpsngl9f8z3.jpg photo DSCN5447_zps8m4usyfe.jpg

 

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Finally finished up the interior today!

I guess I'm fairly happy with the results.

There were parts from several kits thrown together for this one, so things didn't always go as smoothly as I'd like, but not too bad.

The tub, seats & console came from the original MPC annual.

The dash was from the more recent AMT '70 Super Bee kit, & the steering wheel & column were from The Revell '68 Charger.

The dash was slightly modified on suggestion from some other forum members.

I appreciate their input greatly.

The air conditioning vents were eliminated & the dash pad was slightly modified to remove some of the "point" from the center.

I also added a "grille" to the dash top, & a PE button for the glove box.

Clutch & brake pedals were added as well as a shifter to change it from an automatic to a 4 speed car.

For the first time I decided to try the "pantyhose material" trick on the rear package shelf.

Not 100% accurate looking, but it adds some texture & interest.

The wood grain detail is of course, that 50 year old decal that I found. :P

I also "flocked" the carpet, added cast window cranks & homemade door lock buttons.

Now it's on to foiling the body & then engine & chassis work.

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN5442_zps625ft2gc.jpg photo DSCN5436_zpsitfmrwan.jpg photo DSCN5448_zpsngl9f8z3.jpg photo DSCN5447_zps8m4usyfe.jpg

 

That is a very impressive interior Steve, great work as always

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