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Why no kit plating chrome?


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There are several more involved "chrome" processes for plastic. These are used for 1:1 custom parts and finishes, but a serious hobbyist could easily do the same thing.

The end result is pretty spectacular, but the process is way too lengthy for me. I believe in K.I.S.S. I'm not that hard-core into models that I would go to lengths like that to "chrome" a radiator shell.

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BUT, Spaz Stix, while great, does NOT provide the absolute mirror finish that vacuum-plating does.   BTW, have you ever considered the tabletop chromium electroplating kits that are out there, Harry, from the likes of say, Eastwood?

Art

No, it's not quite the same as vacuum-plating... but for me it's close enough. And easy to use. I wouldn't ever bother with those expensive, multi-step processes just for a model car. Maybe if I was interested in contests I'd go all out... but I don't enter contests, so I only have to please myself, not any judge. ;)

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Thank you guys for all the discussion on this. I see there are several options through various methods to get a plated chrome finish......

I really have the desire to build myself an all show lowrider (for my own display ;)) with way too much chrome to be practical for anything other than show

Something like this.........

lowrider_display.thumb.jpg.7b95306dcc6e8

 

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Has anyone found a consistent way to chrome resin cast parts?

Yeah!

Thoroughly clean them (so there are not traces of the mold release agent) and send them out to one of the vacuum metalizing companies.  Of course of the surface finish on those is not perfect  the imperfections will also be visible in the final product.

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Yeah!

Thoroughly clean them (so there are not traces of the mold release agent) and send them out to one of the vacuum metalizing companies.  Of course of the surface finish on those is not perfect  the imperfections will also be visible in the final product.

I sent a pair of resin '61 Olds bumpers to Kustom Khrome with my last batch.

While they turned out "ok", they were no where near the quality of the styrene parts.

 

Steve

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I sent a pair of resin '61 Olds bumpers to Kustom Khrome with my last batch.

While they turned out "ok", they were no where near the quality of the styrene parts.

 

Steve

Were they prepped (cleaned) properly?  Was their surface as smooth as equivalent plastic parts would be?  What were the specifics of the problem?  Vacuum-metalizing will not hide any flaws. It will actually make the flaws more apparent.

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I have to reiterate what Pete W. said.  The chrome will not cover anything.  In fact it makes it worse.  You need an absolute clean, polished, scratch free part to get great chrome results, it doesn't matter if you are sending it out or using one of the chrome paints.  Chrome is the worst for highlighting defects!

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Modelhaus figured that out back 25 yrs ago.   It's called "Attention to all the details" on the part of any resin-caster--some do very nicely, others haven't quite figured that out yet.

Art

If your masters are perfect, and your molds are perfect, you can pull perfect resin parts. If you have perfect resin parts with a nice pinhole-free glossy surface, there really shouldn't be a problem getting good "chrome" on them.

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Were they prepped (cleaned) properly?  Was their surface as smooth as equivalent plastic parts would be?  What were the specifics of the problem?  Vacuum-metalizing will not hide any flaws. It will actually make the flaws more apparent.

In my experience, resin will never be as "perfect" as a styrene part.

It's kind of inherent to resin.

They were cleaned & as smooth as possible in my view.

They were exact copies of original Johan parts made by Jimmy Flintstone.

Problem is, it's very difficult to properly prep in between fine grille pieces & such.

As I said, they looked good, but not as good as a styrene piece.

All of the platers out there specifically state that they will not guarantee the finish of resin parts.

I'm sure that there is a reason for that disclaimer.

As an example, I have never seen a Modelhaus plated part that looked as good as a re-plated original.

That's why I always have originals re-chromed rather than replace them with resin.

 

Steve

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In my experience, resin will never be as "perfect" as a styrene part.

It's kind of inherent to resin.

They were cleaned & as smooth as possible in my view.

They were exact copies of original Johan parts made by Jimmy Flintstone.

Problem is, it's very difficult to properly prep in between fine grille pieces & such.

As I said, they looked good, but not as good as a styrene piece.

All of the platers out there specifically state that they will not guarantee the finish of resin parts.

I'm sure that there is a reason for that disclaimer.

As an example, I have never seen a Modelhaus plated part that looked as good as a re-plated original.

That's why I always have originals re-chromed rather than replace them with resin.

 

Steve

A large part of the problem is that the vacuum-plating shops that do resin parts on occasion aren't all that experienced with such rather small parts runs, unlike the model companies either have in-house or under contracts.  Any part can be as perfectly made, with absolutely mirror-finish, but if the lacquer precoating used prior to vacuum-metalizing isn't completely smooth, slick-shiny, then the plated results won't be either.

Art

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All of the platers out there specifically state that they will not guarantee the finish of resin parts.

I'm sure that there is a reason for that disclaimer.

Yeah, they are just covering their a$$.  Because they don't want customers to complain about the quality, even though it was really the un-plated resin part which was inferior resulting in poor finish.  With few exceptions, resin parts are imperfect. Like it was said, not perfectly smooth surface (uneven or with pinholes) and often not perfectly cleaned - some of the mold release agent is still on the parts.  That is how I see it.

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