5 window top chop

[Jantrix]

I've got a '32 5 window coming my way that will need a chop. I've heard there is a way to chop this without stretching the roof, by cutting the pillars this way and that. Anyone have a link to it? I have searched the forums unsuccessfully for this info.

[Art Anderson]

Just two ways to Chop a Deuce coupe or sedan top--either stretching  the top in the door area, or cut and slant the A-pillars to the rear after chopping them--the latter technique being simpler to do (both in 1:1 and in scale modeling).

Art

Edited September 7, 2016 by Art Anderson

[Ace-Garageguy]

I've got a '32 5 window coming my way that will need a chop. I've heard there is a way to chop this without stretching the roof, by cutting the pillars this way and that. Anyone have a link to it? I have searched the forums unsuccessfully for this info.

It's pretty straightforward on a model, and a LOT easier than doing it on a real car...but as Art says, the principle is the same. This one is AMT, but the Revell body works exactly the same way.

It's been cut approximately 3 scale inches. Come STRAIGHT DOWN on the B-pillar and let the A and C pillars fall where they may.

There's enough meat on the C pillars to sculpt them into submission and finish with filler. The A pillars are what take some additional massaging. To get them to line up, just lean the upper portion forward a tad, and lean the lower portion back to get them to align again, in a straight line. I'm often able to bend them cold, but it's a little nerve-wracking waiting for the "snap". A saw-cut in the inside upper and outside lower corners makes it easier. Some minor trimming and fitting will be required, naturally. I ALWAYS f'glass the insides of the joints to give them sufficient strength to sand and polish later on, and fill any remaining gaps from less-than-perfect cuts with a slurry of Cabosil and epoxy. Then you just re-scribe your door cut-lines and finish as usual for any decent quality bodywork.

Some people tend to get carried away doing this and make it MUCH harder than it really is, usually with disastrous results.

Apply the KISS theory rigorously, and it's a piece of cake.

 

Edited September 8, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ace-Garageguy]

Just for reference, I can't find my own '32 chop tutorial I did years back, but the below shots show doing a '34, using the alternate stretched-roof method. Exactly the same on a '32 5W, but less.

1) Cut it clean and square.

2) Again, come STRAIGHT DOWN on the B pillars. you'll see exactly what you need to do to get alignment of the pillars restored. On the '32 you can get away with simply re-sculpting the C pillars, but on this '34 we have to lengthen the roof behind the B pillars

3) Make your forward cut, align the A pillars, and fill the gaps.

4) Gaps filled. Sculpt the fill material to closely match the roof contours.

5) Voila. 

As all of the pictures illustrate, it's important to watch the "flow" of the lines, like the drip rails, as you get everything going back together. Though these details can be carved in and shaped later, in my own experience, it's easier to take a little more time getting perfectly aligned panels early on, rather than correct with filler later.

 

Edited September 7, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[Draggon]

You stagger the chop on the A pillars. Here's the link:

http://trakinscale.proboards.com/thread/17179/deuce-tudor-top-choppin

Edited September 8, 2016 by Draggon

[Ace-Garageguy]

You stagger the chop on the A pillars. Here's the link:

http://trakinscale.proboards.com/thread/17179/deuce-tudor-top-choppin

That's a good method, JUST LIKE doing a 1:1, but 1) it's a sedan, not a 5-window like the OP asked for and 2) it's WAY more complicated than is necessary in scale, and requires vastly more precise cuts going in several different directions.

Yeah, it WILL work beautifully, and take somewhat longer to get everything dead-on, with rather more chances to bugger your body if you're not already an accomplished hacker.  

But carry on.  

PS. I guess you're directing Jantrix to the method to use on the A-pillars, which is fine...but also bear in mind that the method shown on TRAK at the rear of the chop is used to keep the rear window stock-height and avoid the mail-slot look. That's also possible on the 5-window, but again, it's a lot more work. not particularly hard, just requires a higher degree of presicion...as do the A-pillar mods shown there.

Edited September 8, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[Jantrix]

You stagger the chop on the A pillars. Here's the link:

http://trakinscale.proboards.com/thread/17179/deuce-tudor-top-choppin

That's what I was looking for. Thanks very much. 

[Snake45]

Or you could just get the Milner's or Coddington reissues of the MPC Switcher '32 Ford, which has a pre-chopped top, and graft it onto your chosen body.

[Jantrix]

Nope. I've no problem tackling this chop regardless of the method used. The section I'm doing on my '53 right now will be good practice.

[NOBLNG]

No point in starting another thread on this I guess. This is my first attempt at a 3” chop on the Revell ‘32. I found this thread after the fact, so I dropped the C pillar straight down. Accordingly, I had to add a little to the B pillar. I made a slit at the top and bottom of the A pillar and leaned them forward and back till they lined up. The sprue glue I used for filler works great...but it takes a long time to dry into solid styrene again. If I was to do it again (I mean WHEN I do it again?) I may cut the entire A pillar out and then file the length down at the proper angles to fit? All in all, I am happy with the results.

Edit: I see some pics of these cars where the upper hinge is on the A pillar, and some where it is just below the belt line. Is that a stock difference, or a modification? Obviously I need to move it down so they will be aligned. Thanks.

Edited October 13, 2022 by NOBLNG
Change pics

[gary jackson]

On 11/10/2020 at 1:11 PM, NOBLNG said:

No point in starting another thread on this I guess. This is my first attempt at a 3” chop on the Revell ‘32. I found this thread after the fact, so I dropped the C pillar straight down. Accordingly, I had to add a little to the B pillar. I made a slit at the top and bottom of the A pillar and leaned them forward and back till they lined up. The sprue glue I used for filler works great...but it takes a long time to dry into solid styrene again. If I was to do it again (I mean WHEN I do it again?) I may cut the entire A pillar out and then file the length down at the proper angles to fit? All in all, I am happy with the results.

Edit: I see some pics of these cars where the upper hinge is on the A pillar, and some where it is just below the belt line. Is that a stock difference, or a modification? Obviously I need to move it down so they will be aligned. Thanks.

what did you use to make the flat recesses in the windows  im having a little trouble getting those perfect  ive tried cut down sandpaper nail files  and folded sand paper but i havent found a perfect tool

[NOBLNG]

On 11/1/2023 at 6:33 PM, gary jackson said:

what did you use to make the flat recesses in the windows  im having a little trouble getting those perfect  ive tried cut down sandpaper nail files  and folded sand paper but i havent found a perfect tool

Mostly very careful scraping with small tool that I’ve filed to a tiny rounded tip. Then careful sanding, a little putty to fix any gouges and…more sanding. It is a tedious process. Good luck with it.🙂

I also have these curved round files that come in handy for that sort of operation.

Edited November 3, 2023 by NOBLNG