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Posted

I need to get the spindle a little further into this wheel, Whats the best way to trim the boss down without screwing up the rim? And by the word "boss" I mean the round button in the center. 

Posted

When they're recessed below the rim like that, they're kinda tricky.

The best way would be to chuck the wheel in a lathe, and turn the boss off. A milling machine would also work well.

Barring that, I'd probably try a drill bit the same diameter as the outside diameter of the boss, and twist it slowly and carefully, by hand, until you've just shaved the ring off flush with the center.

Posted

When they're recessed below the rim like that, they're kinda tricky.

The best way would be to chuck the wheel in a lathe, and turn the boss off. A milling machine would also work well.

Barring that, I'd probably try a drill bit the same diameter as the outside diameter of the boss, and twist it slowly and carefully, by hand, until you've just shaved the ring off flush with the center.

Bill has it correct, folks!   Short of using a lathe or a vertical mill with a rotary table that can rotate the wheel, about the only way to remove material from a wheel "boss" below the level of the inner side of the rim would be to use a drill bit as large as the outside diameter of said wheel boss--laborious by hand, but just about the only option out there.

Art

Posted (edited)

I assume you are trying to get the tires tucked inside the fender. Can you shorten the axle?  

or

I have used a chisel blade to scrape off the raised lip.  Takes a little effort but gets the job done.

Image result for x acto chisel blade

Edited by afx
Posted (edited)

All good ideas - but sometimes I go all in for the least delicate workshop method for precision material removal - Warning, this might be overkill...

the part looks like a wheel back so appearance on the other side is not a concern - If chiseling it down doesn't work, I just drill all of the way thru with the diameter of the raised mounting boss, then replace it with hub cut down from another wheel back to fit the axle. It is recommended to drill under-size and file for size and position of the hole.

Edited by Muncie
Posted

Never knew what these bits were officially called, I just used 'em. Assuming you have a motor tool of some description, you simply use the bottom edge of the cutting tool to grind whatever you need into plastic dust, as in what I just did to the ribs of this unfortunate plastic piece.

cutting_tools.thumb.jpg.4f67622f82001950

Posted

Never knew what these bits were officially called, I just used 'em. Assuming you have a motor tool of some description, you simply use the bottom edge of the cutting tool to grind whatever you need into plastic dust, as in what I just did to the ribs of this unfortunate plastic piece.

cutting_tools.thumb.jpg.4f67622f82001950

Wow!  That looks like a Weller motor-tool!  I had one many years ago (before buying a Dremel).  Is this an old one or do they still make them?

Posted

Never knew what these bits were officially called, I just used 'em.

Those bits are a type of miniature "end-mills", and your procedure is exactly what you'd do with a milling machine, only hand-held...so not as accurate...but still very effective.

Posted

Wow!  That looks like a Weller motor-tool!  I had one many years ago (before buying a Dremel).  Is this an old one or do they still make them?

I permanently borrowed this thing from my dad in the early- mid-1980s, it's formal name is the "JC Penny Microworkshop", and I have the whole thing just like what is seen in this recent auction page. It finally needed a bit of oil in the bearings a few years ago to get rid of the increasing vibration, but otherwise still works like a charm. What I like about it is the rheostat motor rpm dial which allow me to choose any speed above 10k rpm to I guess some annoyingly high speed. Wish I could slow it down further, though.

Those bits are a type of miniature "end-mills", and your procedure is exactly what you'd do with a milling machine, only hand-held...so not as accurate...but still very effective.

Yep, angle in from the top and dig away. It won't be pretty, but in such hidden areas, who cares? Using the even rougher grinding wheel bits, I can dispatch unwanted stuff to plastic heaven in mere seconds. At minimum, I take a deep breath and then blow the offending plastic fumes away from me, but better yet would be to have a mini-fan nearby to send the quasi-melting plastic fumes away.

Posted

I permanently borrowed this thing from my dad in the early- mid-1980s, it's formal name is the "JC Penny Microworkshop", and I have the whole thing just like what is seen in this recent auction page. It finally needed a bit of oil in the bearings a few years ago to get rid of the increasing vibration, but otherwise still works like a charm. What I like about it is the rheostat motor rpm dial which allow me to choose any speed above 10k rpm to I guess some annoyingly high speed. Wish I could slow it down further, though.

That looks identical to my Weller unit (even the Styrofoam insert and the case). Looks like the unit was sold under multiple brands.  I even added variable speed controller to mine.  I upgraded to a variable-speed Dremel tool when they started using ball bearings in them (that eliminates the longitudinal play on the motor shaft).  But I did use my Weller tool for many years.  I still have stashed deep in my basement.

Posted

Never knew what these bits were officially called, I just used 'em. Assuming you have a motor tool of some description, you simply use the bottom edge of the cutting tool to grind whatever you need into plastic dust, as in what I just did to the ribs of this unfortunate plastic piece.

cutting_tools.thumb.jpg.4f67622f82001950

I have a bit like this where the cutting surface is approximately the same diameter as the shaft that fits into the chuck. BEST Dremel bit in my collection and the one I use the most. I've used it to do exactly what the original poster is looking to do.

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