27 t highboy on model a frame

[Austin NJ]

Started to piece together a car I'd like to build in real life one day. I tried to replicate a 32 k member in addition to z'ing the frame. I've never scrathbuilt anything so I'm learning as I go along and it's been fun! I need to build some headers for the flatty too somehow. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Mo' debinately my kind of car. Proportions and stance are critical to get right on these things...and sometimes take lots of fiddling to hit the sweet spot.

[iBorg]

Flintstone body?

[Mr Dedo]

Great craftsmanship. Will you be adding a couple rectangular plates on either side of your "Z"? I saw this detail at model show recently. the builder told me "we are trying to fool the eye into thinking the plates hold the frame together. Use .010" plastic, for example, to mimic the scale thickness of 1:1 steel plates".

Looks like you are having fun! 

[Austin NJ]

This is how I'm hoping the car will sit when all together. I'm not sure what I'm going to do for interior, but definitely want a blasa wood floor, as for the plates for the z in the frame I probably won't do that. It is a flintstone body as well. Is it easy to cut through resin bodies to open the trunk and the passenger door? That might be a cool addition if it's easy. I think it's going to be black on black. 

[iBorg]

The biggest problems of cutting resin is the dust is harmful, you need to wear breathing protection (although most don't) and that body is not smooth inside which means you'll have to prep it by sanding. Also, that coupe in the background looks killer.

Edited August 17, 2017 by iBorg

[espo]

iBorg makes a very good point about prep on a Resin body. I would offer an additional idea when sanding, do it away from your work bench. Consider stepping out side even. The "dust" created when sanding Resin bodies will get all over the other parts in the build. This can and will cause issues when painting these parts. Your frame looks great.

[Mr. Metallic]

This is a cool project.

Just a note of warning, it looks the heads you're planning to use are from the Model Car Garage? If I am correct, just know that those are 1/24. Normally, 1/24 vs 1/25 doesn't matter to me, but if you try to put those heads on the 1/25 block you're using they are going to be very big. You can either sand them down carefully to make them fit, but take the chance of damaging the beautifully molded cooling fins. Or, you can do like Bernard Kron has in the past, and add a couple pieces of plastic strip to the top of the block to fill the gap. Bernard, can you share a pic of what I'm talking about?

[Austin NJ]

This is a cool project.

Just a note of warning, it looks the heads you're planning to use are from the Model Car Garage? If I am correct, just know that those are 1/24. Normally, 1/24 vs 1/25 doesn't matter to me, but if you try to put those heads on the 1/25 block you're using they are going to be very big. You can either sand them down carefully to make them fit, but take the chance of damaging the beautifully molded cooling fins. Or, you can do like Bernard Kron has in the past, and add a couple pieces of plastic strip to the top of the block to fill the gap. Bernard, can you share a pic of what I'm talking about?

Which kits have blocks that are 1/24? 

[Austin NJ]

I decided to extend the z a little more to drop the back. I think I shaved too much off the other wheel well.. is there any type of body filler I can make? I've heard of a homemade one using crazy glue. 

[MeatMan]

Nice start Austin! I like where you're headed with this.

[iBorg]

Superglue a filler piece and resand it.

[Mr. Metallic]

Which kits have blocks that are 1/24? 

Ones that come to mind are the Monogram 36 ford roadster/coupe and 40 Ford pickup. I'm sure there's more. Problem is they're the old style tooling with a lot of stuff molded in, not like the modern tooled flatties from Revell/Monogram (and some AMT) with all the great detail and separate parts.

[Austin NJ]

Got some paint on some parts today but still gotta get the whole interior, firewall and windshield straightened out before I can finish it up. Is it possible to just use flat styrene for the dash? I want a clean look to it like a hand fabricated one on a real car. And I have no idea what to do for the windshield... any tips anyone has would be greatly appreciated. 

[Austin NJ]

Glued some more parts on but the pictures don't do this thing justice. The shadows are lost in the black and you can't see all the details but it looks awesome in real life. 

[modelfink]

Love this!

 

[misterNNL]

You should consider taking your photos with the car sitting on a large light colored sheet of background paper. For yours I would suggest a light grey or possibly white. The background clutter on your work bench makes it difficult to see the details very clearly. A good source for that can be a Hobby Lobby store.

For a windshield the AMT '27 Ford kits all have an excellent one as a separate piece.If you don't have one on hand a quick posting in the "wanted" section will surely turn up one pretty quickly.Thanks for sharing.