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Posted (edited)

i just started building model cars and I’m a bit overwhelmed. I just tossed my first model in the trash cause it’s garbage. I’m using the Createx paint and all the paints involved. Like the pearls, candy, irradiance, and the Wicked paints. Do I need to scruff the models, use a primer instead of using the Detailed black or white? I have a ton of questions about how to use the Createx line of paints and I haven’t found a Youtube video called “How to paint model cars for dummies” most of all the tips involve shirts and I already have enough of those. Any and all tips, suggestions, or web links are welcomed!

Edited by Easy
Title was misleading
Posted

From what I've read, Createx paints can be tricky. I have some but haven't tried them yet. I've read that the Createx white and black are really hard to work with. The Wicked colors are supposed to be easier. I wash all car bodies with Comet and a brush to thoroughly scuff the shine off everything. Rinse and dry thoroughly, then prime. You should also explain what equipment you are using for more detailed help.

Posted

I have used the Createx line a few times and did not like the results, The paint didn't seem to bond to the body very well and would scratch very easily and the clear was worse. Now with that said I am by no means an expert or even a good airbrush artist but I have turned out some decent paint jobs with it

Posted

Check out this guy's YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bbHTLgPXaM  , he has some great tips on using water-based acrylic craft paints that I'm sure will apply to Createx.     

Here's another channel with a series on Createx on model cars https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z74p0mpNO-Y I haven't watched it but hopefully it has some useful info I saw it in the recommendations on that other video.  

Posted

Ok thanks a bunch guys. I’m using an airbrush, it’s not great I’m just waiting to upgrade to a Iwata eclipse. Since Createx isn’t all that great, what’s a good water based paint? Is Inspire a good paint?

Posted

Check out this guy's YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bbHTLgPXaM  , he has some great tips on using water-based acrylic craft paints that I'm sure will apply to Createx.    

My opinion on Chris's videos is that they are out of date and contain some info (using a Future substitute) that is incorrect. He has some good info but I wish he'd update his stuff. With that said, I've never had much luck with craft acrylics on bodies. Others have. I use them on interiors and chassis parts. That's why I'm going to give the Wicked paints a try on some bodies.

Posted

Why the Createx?  Availability?  Doesn't matter really.  Seems like it is rarely used here, so you may be the one that learns and teaches us all.   You have to experiment with airbrush and paint to find the combination that works for you.  Don't get discouraged - I've been doing this for 30+ years straight and 40+ altogether and am still often discouraged by my results because I don't always get the results I would like.  

I was resistant to acrylics for a long time.  but I have come to accept them for brush painting.  Haven't tried much airbrusing yet, because last time I tried it, I made a huge mess of my airbrush because of compatibility of paints I was using.  May try again, but I have a huge stast of enamels and Duplicolor paints.   

Good luck.  Get that kit out of trash and strip it.  Start over.  Repeat until you get better.  And finish that first kit.  keep it to be able to see your progress as a modeler.  this isn't a hobby that is developed overnight.  First kits are often a rough place.  My first kit from 1974 is probably still soft in a landfill somewhere because of all the tunbe glue I used on it.  One kit=one tube of glue, right?  LOL

Posted

I'm going to try the Createx stuff because of price and local availability. HL 40% off coupons make it worth a try. I'll post what I discover.

Posted (edited)

I have used the Createx a couple of times and found it difficult to work with.  I mixed the paint with the Createx Mix additive 4030 in a 90/10 ratio paint to additive.  I shot the paint using an airbrush with a .5mm needle at 40 to 50 psi.  It came out ok.  I have been using Vallejo Model Air Acylics and really like them.  If you are in an area with limited resources Amazon is a great place to find paints and other items.

Edited by Back after 50 years
Posted

I have used the Createx line a few times and did not like the results, The paint didn't seem to bond to the body very well and would scratch very easily and the clear was worse. Now with that said I am by no means an expert or even a good airbrush artist but I have turned out some decent paint jobs with it

Posted

I've used Createx numerous times and I actually liked the results, with that being said the one thing I don't like is the paint dries too quickly as it comes out of the airbrush so constantly have to reclean over and over.  Big P.I.A..   but I think it has allot to do with the very low humidity that we have here in Colorado.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I wanted to follow up on this and see if those who use(d) Createx paints on models. I just ordered some to try and see how they will work. I wanted to know if anyone using them has problems with build up on the paints when using a mask? Has there been a work around or this something you need to deal with when using Createx paints? I thought if you thin the paints enough you shouldn't have an edge on the masking.

 

Love to hear any thoughts or tips you folks have. The colors of the Createx seem so cool.

Dave

Posted

That second YT link that Brett Barrow posted above to Andy X's video series about Createx paints should be very helpful.  I think there are seven or eight videos in the series.  I've never used them and don't plan on using them but every time I have looked at them at HL I notice on the bottom of every row of paint it says if these paints will be used for plastic models you need to also use another one of their products with it.  I can't remember what it was but the sign even gives the part number.

Posted

I did watch the videos from Andy X and that was what lead me to the questions about the buildup of the paint when masking. I'll be sure I post what I learn as I try these paints.

 

Thanks,

Dave

 

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, jchrisf said:

That second YT link that Brett Barrow posted above to Andy X's video series about Createx paints should be very helpful.  I think there are seven or eight videos in the series.  I've never used them and don't plan on using them but every time I have looked at them at HL I notice on the bottom of every row of paint it says if these paints will be used for plastic models you need to also use another one of their products with it.  I can't remember what it was but the sign even gives the part number.

You need to spend some time on their website. www.createxcolors.com They have videos about mixing the paint with the additives you're talking about. They're 4030 Balancing Clear/Mix Additive and 4012 High Performance Reducer. There are tables for mixing all of the createx paints as well as lots of tips. One is to mix the reducer and balancing clear/mix additive together before mixing in the paint. Little things like that as well as reduction ratios are all there. Spend some time watching the videos and reading about the products. It boosted my confidence. I've done some trial stuff on old bodies with black covered with Model Master Lacquer Clear. Looked really good. I've tried one other car and stripped it twice. Your body prep has to be near perfect. I'm still experimenting but feel like the results may be worth the effort, I hope.

Edited by Miatatom
Posted

One thing I forgot to mention about the Createx paints is that the balancing clear/mixing additive is NOT a real clear, per se, it's just a necessary ingredient that they've decided to put the word clear in.  :D I've bought a bottle of their gloss clear but I hear it really doesn't gloss up if you're looking for a show car finish. I'll try it sometime and see how it does. About 90% of my builds are race cars so I'm not looking for the dipped in syrup look.

Posted

Never throw away kits. Save them for parts. I have no idea what will strip that paint, but Castrol Super Clean not purple power will strip just about anything. The extra money for the name brand is worth it. I have both and the Castrol works  better. Put the kit in something and let it soak for a few days, you are not going to hurt it. I just got a car that was sitting in the soup for over 2 months and its OK. With true lacquer you might want to try 90%  alcohol . Some guys for years have used oven cleaner which is lye, I don't like being around or smelling that stuff. And lastly brake fluid which worked well on metal parts but not so much on plastic at least for me. As most people here will tell you is practice practice practice what ever paint and equipment you decide to use. Good Luck

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, BubbaBrown said:

Castrol Super Clean not purple power will strip just about anything.  Put the kit in something and let it soak for a few days, you are not going to hurt it.  Some guys for years have used oven cleaner which is lye, I don't like being around or smelling that stuff.

Main active ingredient in Castrol Super Clean is lye (Sodium Hydroxide), which is the same as in the original formula Easy-Off oven cleaner.

Edited by peteski

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