Gold 57 Chevy.

[Scalper]

Started this 57 Chevy. It's the non stock version with the wheel tubs. 

Got lots painted. Only took one pic so far hope you like 

[Xingu]

Yes sir, that is a gold '57 Chevy. Looking forward to seeing how this one ends up. I find gold to be a very fickle color.

[Del Austin]

Every time I get a good gold paint job down I end up covering it up with Candy! I just can't help myself!!

[Scalper]

thanks .. its not perfect as you can see just behind the passenger door. paint is tamiya rattle can.

[Scalper]

So I'm thinking of building a replica of a model I built over 20 years ago that got thrown out.  

Going to add cragar rims. Not sure what tires to use or if I will raise the back end 

[Scalper]

Engine almost completed.  1 of 8 plug wires in. Touch ups to be done after. 

[Scalper]

Well after I took it to my club I while back. I just noticed that I scratched up the paint a bit.. debating of re painting it.. or adding some rust,

 

[Renegade]

On ‎10‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 3:24 PM, Xingu said:

Yes sir, that is a gold '57 Chevy. Looking forward to seeing how this one ends up. I find gold to be a very fickle color.

Had very good luck with Testors Pure Gold. Lays down a lot better than the Testors Gold. Doing a Hearst Hairy Olds right now.

[Scalper]

20 hours ago, Renegade said:

Had very good luck with Testors Pure Gold. Lays down a lot better than the Testors Gold. Doing a Hearst Hairy Olds right now.

Testors is ok painted my olds with the testors as well. 

Well took some pics this morning. Noticed that I even have finger prints on it. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

That's the problem with the Testors Gold, silver & Copper enamels.

They are extremely fragile.

You will likely never get the finger prints back out without repainting.

In the future, you might want to give it a shot of Testors clear enamel gloss after the gold.

It's the only way that you will ever be able to protect the color coats.

Another thing to remember with these paints is that the adhesion properties are terrible!

You should never try to mask over them without spraying some sort of protective coating over them.

The tape will pull the paint right off!

Even after a protective coat, it is very questionable whether tape should be used on it.

I have had clear pull right off of these colors in sheets with the tape.

I hardly ever use these paints any more because they are so troublesome.

 

Steve

[Scalper]

3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

That's the problem with the Testors Gold, silver & Copper enamels.

They are extremely fragile.

You will likely never get the finger prints back out without repainting.

In the future, you might want to give it a shot of Testors clear enamel gloss after the gold.

It's the only way that you will ever be able to protect the color coats.

Another thing to remember with these paints is that the adhesion properties are terrible!

You should never try to mask over them without spraying some sort of protective coating over them.

The tape will pull the paint right off!

Even after a protective coat, it is very questionable whether tape should be used on it.

I have had clear pull right off of these colors in sheets with the tape.

I hardly ever use these paints any more because they are so troublesome.

 

Steve

Thanks Steve I appreciate it . looks like she will be a bit rusty.. or might just try to repaint the roof.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Scalper said:

Thanks Steve I appreciate it . looks like she will be a bit rusty.. or might just try to repaint the roof.

You could give it a light sanding with very fine sand paper & shoot it with another coat of gold.

Let it cure & then a fairly heavy coat of Testors enamel clear gloss.

The clear enamel will take a long time to cure, but you could move on to another project for a month or two and when you come back to it, you should have a nice shiny bright gold finish.

I've used this paint in silver with clear over it & it looks pretty nice when it's done.

The gold is a little too bright for my taste, but it does give you a nice thin, smooth base.

 

Steve

[Oldcarfan27]

I like a nice gold or silver paint job. But you MUST seal it with a coat of clear to keep it from getting damaged. What ever you do DO NOT use Testors Gloss Cote!!! It doesn't cover the metallic paint well and leaves huge orange peel!

Enamels look bright, but turn muddy or bland when covered with clear.

I've had the best luck with Dupli-Color Automotive lacquer and compatible clear spray.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

I like a nice gold or silver paint job. But you MUST seal it with a coat of clear to keep it from getting damaged. What ever you do DO NOT use Testors Gloss Cote!!! It doesn't cover the metallic paint well and leaves huge orange peel!

Enamels look bright, but turn muddy or bland when covered with clear.

I've had the best luck with Dupli-Color Automotive lacquer and compatible clear spray.

???

One thing I have never had issues with when using Testors clear enamel is orange peel.

It has a tendency to yellow over time depending on your base color, but I have never had orange peel issues.

This '55 Nomad body was shot with Testors clear enamel over a a flat enamel base probably 20 years ago.

One coat with zero polishing.

 

Steve

 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2018 by StevenGuthmiller

[Oldcarfan27]

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

???

One thing I have never had issues with when using Testors clear enamel is orange peel.

It has a tendency to yellow over time depending on your base color, but I have never had orange peel issues.

This '55 Nomad body was shot with Testors clear enamel over a a flat enamel base probably 20 years ago.

One coat with zero polishing.

 

Steve

 

 

 

Not sure if we're talking about the same formula of Testors paint. I'm talking about the old spray called Gloss Cote, and it kinda smells like rubbing alcohol when you spray it. First coat goes on smooth but a little thin. After that, any coats sprayed on top would lump up and never smooth out. It's as if it wasn't compatible with itself. And if you sprayed it on Testors regular silver, the silver would turn muddy grey and never get glossy no matter how many coats you put on it. Pretty sure gold reacted the same way.

Maybe Testors improved that old formula, but that's the horror I remember with it and I've never used it since.

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Not sure if we're talking about the same formula of Testors paint. I'm talking about the old spray called Gloss Cote, and it kinda smells like rubbing alcohol when you spray it. First coat goes on smooth but a little thin. After that, any coats sprayed on top would lump up and never smooth out. It's as if it wasn't compatible with itself. And if you sprayed it on Testors regular silver, the silver would turn muddy grey and never get glossy no matter how many coats you put on it. Pretty sure gold reacted the same way.

Maybe Testors improved that old formula, but that's the horror I remember with it and I've never used it since.

That sounds like one of their lacquer formulas.

I agree.

If it is one of those, it will definitely eat into a paint as fragile as this.

The clear I am referring to is #2936 "Enamel Top Coat".

I haven't tried it in years, but I just bought a can recently for a particular project.

If the formula hasn't changed, it used to work pretty well for a quick, one shot, shiny finish.

But I will remember never to use it over light colors.

 

Steve

[mustang1989]

I found that out the hard way in regards to tape over painted finishes (even with the Tamiya Tape) with acrylics on aircraft builds and then again with enamels and lacquers on automotive builds but hey, it's a constant learning process right? Engine looks good but I'll say that I usually stick all my wires with the boots installed into the distributor first and then start the routing process.

Boots aint that hard to fabricate or install either.

I start here with the wire:

Then I either get a piece of telephone jack wire or even better yet would be a same diameter piece of black wire so it's already the right color:

Cut to two different lengths, one for the distributor side and the other for the spark plug side and insert a toothpick through to swell the "boot" to fit onto the spark plug wire:

and slide both onto the wire and "wallah" you've got yourself one assembled spark plug wire. Either paint the boots to your liking or choose the correct diameter colored wire for them.

 

[Scalper]

It’s been a while. This one is back on my main bench. Some progress since lost post.  Interior and chassis completed.  

Body and engine bay left. 

she’s not perfect but will looks good on a shelf when completed 

[W-31]

I like it! Nice job

[espo]

I hadn't seen this build before now. Have you sealed the body paint yet ?  I remember years ago using this paint but for a base for a candy color. This makes a great candy apple red base coat. 

[Scalper]

14 hours ago, espo said:

I hadn't seen this build before now. Have you sealed the body paint yet ?  I remember years ago using this paint but for a base for a candy color. This makes a great candy apple red base coat. 

Have not sealed the body.. going for that nice worn look  to make it look it has not been painted since the 80's 

[espo]

2 hours ago, Scalper said:

Have not sealed the body.. going for that nice worn look  to make it look it has not been painted since the 80's 

 

2 hours ago, Scalper said:

Have not sealed the body.. going for that nice worn look  to make it look it has not been painted since the 80's 

Perhaps a light semi-gloss or even a flat clear. 

[Scalper]

Just a few things left to do before the body is married to the chassis.  Missing some parts going to have to find a master brake cylinder 

[Scalper]

Little update.  Body now on the chassis.  Had issue with the rad and rad support. Would not fit. Had to cut and sand the support brace. The I was able to stick when rad in between now it fits 

[TransAmMike]

Keep it going Andre, looking good.  I'm off and on working on the same kit.  Gonna be a kinda Street/Gasser.