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Fully detailed Pagani Huayra..Under Glass


Dann Tier

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  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...next; final details to rear cowl
7 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

My smallest update so far...

Even your smallest update does look good!

May I ask you a question about this canopy glue you use for fixing small parts before painting... It cures after some time, naturally. So what is the time window you have for using it and how do you remove the glue?

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11 hours ago, Tommy124 said:

Even your smallest update does look good!

May I ask you a question about this canopy glue you use for fixing small parts before painting... It cures after some time, naturally. So what is the time window you have for using it and how do you remove the glue?

Thanks. Tommy!  heres a photo of my favorite canopy glue. It dries waaaaay faster than you expect, and once cured, has a pretty strong bond. It comes off without leaving a mark, or residue. It can be permanent too if left on. MOST of the time the parts just pop right off the toothpicks without leaving any behind, but I always check anyway. If it does, you can just carefully pick the rest off, or use sticky masking tape. You have ALOT of time to use it....sometimes I put a drop on a plate, and let it get thicker before I use it. You can even mix any kolor of acrylic paint in it for other uses! i.e; battery terminal covers, wire looms, plug boots......

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  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...Heat-stained exhaust finished!
  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...Last fitment issue resolved

I have the last fitment issue sorted!

-Photo 1; Here you can see the rear edge of the door sticking out a bit past the leading edge of the rear cowl....its NOT a door fitment issue like many believe. The "point" of the cowl protrudes in, and you can see it in this photo if you look closely enough. The edge nearest the tyre is pot-on, but by the time you move forward to the "point", its off by the thickness of the door skin.

-Photo 2; You can see better here about what I mean when you see the rear door edge.

-Photo 3; I came up with an easy, effective fix....I made two small disc's out of black plastic, polished it, and then glued it down to where you see me pointing. It needs to be bare plastic, because if you don't, it WILL eventually stick to the adjacent painted surface, and leave a mark. The bare polished plastic just glides smoothly without catching at all, and as you can see from the next two photos, it totally spread it open enough to fix the issue!   -I know the real car doesn't have these, but you need to ask yourself; "do I want realistic details on a poor fitting build, which actually is STILL unrealistic?, or would I much rather have a realistic, well fitting build, that has a couple extra parts?"...….its a no-brainer.

-Photo 7; I decided to add the two utility lights to the top of the cowl. All I have left to do to this part, is to finish SB the red release tabs, like on the front one.

-Photo 8; Heres a cool picture of the VERY TINY cowl catches, as well as door catch.

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On 30.11.2018 at 11:58 PM, Dann Tier said:

Thanks. Tommy!  heres a photo of my favorite canopy glue. It dries waaaaay faster than you expect, and once cured, has a pretty strong bond. It comes off without leaving a mark, or residue. It can be permanent too if left on. MOST of the time the parts just pop right off the toothpicks without leaving any behind, but I always check anyway. If it does, you can just carefully pick the rest off, or use sticky masking tape. You have ALOT of time to use it....sometimes I put a drop on a plate, and let it get thicker before I use it. You can even mix any kolor of acrylic paint in it for other uses! i.e; battery terminal covers, wire looms, plug boots......

Thanks for the detailed reply, Dann! I have purchased this glue too and will do some testing!

 

1 hour ago, Dann Tier said:

I know the real car doesn't have these, but you need to ask yourself; "do I want realistic details on a poor fitting build, which actually is STILL unrealistic?, or would I much rather have a realistic, well fitting build, that has a couple extra parts?"...….its a no-brainer.

That's exactly right. Sometime you have to correct the shortcomings of the kit in order to achieve the main goal: a great-looking model. You're almost there!

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4 hours ago, Tommy124 said:

Thanks for the detailed reply, Dann! I have purchased this glue too and will do some testing!

 

That's exactly right. Sometime you have to correct the shortcomings of the kit in order to achieve the main goal: a great-looking model. You're almost there!

Thanks again, Tommy!! you will LOVE that glue!!!  I even use it on the end of a toothpick......after its dry, to pick-up PE parts to their proper placement!

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  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...a better looking Tranny cooler

Heres something I did the other day that I forgot to post; The tranny oil cooler wasn't etched good enough, and it had been bugging me for a while now. You cant even tell that there is one under that shroud, so I decided to add a PE radiator face to it, and now I like it!

-Photo 1; this is how unrealistic it looked.

-Photo 2; The new look...

-Photo 3; The cooler was too klean for the look I wanted, so I did a subtle black wash.

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  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...Only four things left to do!!!!
  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...windows test-fit, and paint

Its time for the dreaded clear parts...

-Photo 1; I test fit all the glass in relation with each other, and sanded all the edges so that they would just drop right in place. All the glass fit surprisingly well, except for the frear window with the brake light. There is a VERY tiny ridge all the way around it, but I had to totally sand-off the side ones for it to fit properly. Before I applied the inside masks, I used a 3000 grit sanding stick to carefully run up, and down all the very corners of the edges....at a 45 degree angle. This gets rid of the sharp edges from the sanding process, and assures that there are no plastic "slivers" left behind.

-Photo 2; I love using this masking sheet!!

-Photo 3; After covering the front sides of the windows, I burnished down all the edges. The tool I have here was "acquired" from Tina's cake decorating stuff.....she's not getting it back...lol

-Photo 4; Here I trimmed the tape as close to the edges of all the windows, and re-burnished the edges.

-Photo 5; All the glass is ready to go!, and now I am in the process of painting them with Tamiya Flat black.

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Got some more done just now...

-Photo 1; The tape is holding the plug end of the rear harness I SB. I also made a clip out of very thin pie tin. I decided to use my handy canopy glue to attach the bracket, since quite often, other glues like to pop-off, and take paint with it when you try to move the wires around into their proper positions. The clip itself, was a narrow strip, that I curved the bottom up on, to hold the harness while I folded the top half down over it. The trick to using the canopy glue for this though, is to first put it on the frame, going slightly wider than the clip. Immediately after sticking the clip to it, add a tiny bead of glue over the clip, from glue end to glue end, and let dry.This creates a strong glue clip to hold the clip-clip...lol

-Photo 2; This is the side marker assembly on a real Huayra. As much as I love this, and most Aoshima kits, I cant figure out why they were slacking on this part. As you will see in photo three....left part, the area that is suppose to say; PAGANI, doesn't. That's okay....they have decals for them, right?....NOPE. Okay, that means the PE set has to have them, since these types of sets are suppose to add the ultimate in realism......NOPE. So in order to keep my level of detail and realism up,  I ordered a second PE set, just for two Pagani emblems......the ones used for the brakes fit perfectly!  Before I forget, I was wrong about the PE set not including parts for the side markers, what they wanted you to use was pretty laughable!....they wanted you to totally replace the plastic parts, that have the LED lights in them, with a flat, one dimensional PE part that has NO light, but says PAGANI in larger letters all the way across! I very rarely build replica stock, so go figure this sorta thing would happen when I did want to...lol

-Photo 3; Disappointing part on the left, sanded smooth better part on the right.

-Photo 4; Here you can see how much better/realistic it looks now.....next step; paint!

-Photo 5; Aoshima only included a clear red plastic piece for the third brake light. Out of all my research, not one of them had this!.....they all had clear LED's, so I had to SB my own from a spare clear part. After sanding the back side of the lens, I used an impressionistic technique to simulate the many LED bulbs. I started out with tiny little, almost perfect flat white dots...staggered, then added two thin coats of flat white, and flat clear...50/50.

-Photos 6-8; Heres the finished lens.....its very hard to see in the photos, but the technique worked a treat!

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  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra...quickly running out of parts!!!
  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra..Under Glass

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