Filthysanches Posted June 9, 2018 Posted June 9, 2018 I'm thinking I'm going to make this a beer wagon with casks of beer and a custom brew decal but it's kind of a work in progress at the moment. I was going to convert a Ghostbusters ecto-1 and Bash building with a 58 caddy since the original ecto-1 kit does it come with an engine but since my last build was kind of intense I decided to take a breather with this one. I Sanded and prepped and primed the main body I find the stock bed on these trucks to be too plastic to feel heavy and real, so I decided to scratch build the bed using wood strips as opposed to the normal plastic and decals the kit comes with. The hardware store didn't have the width I needed so I had to rip and sand the planks by hand which is a pain in the a$$ Next I had to glue the planks together The joints are pretty bad but I lack the equipment and patients to make better work of them. The railing (styrene strips) should cover most the crimes I'm about to make. I'm sure some of you are wood workers and for those wood purists please forgive my use of stain as finding darker wood strips is difficult, and I have a color scheme in mind. I'm planning on doing a subtle two tone paint with flat black and this metallic bronze as a highlight. In person the wood matches a bit closer to the subtle color pallet in the paint. This is where I have got so far, tonight I will likely assemble the bed add the bolts and all that fun stuff.
Filthysanches Posted June 9, 2018 Author Posted June 9, 2018 4 hours ago, Filthysanches said: I'm thinking I'm going to make this a beer wagon with casks of beer and a custom brew decal but it's kind of a work in progress at the moment. I was going to convert a Ghostbusters ecto-1 and Bash building with a 58 caddy since the original ecto-1 kit does it come with an engine but since my last build was kind of intense I decided to take a breather with this one. I Sanded and prepped and primed the main body I find the stock bed on these trucks to be too plastic to feel heavy and real, so I decided to scratch build the bed using wood strips as opposed to the normal plastic and decals the kit comes with. The hardware store didn't have the width I needed so I had to rip and sand the planks by hand which is a pain in the a$$ Next I had to glue the planks together The joints are pretty bad but I lack the equipment and patients to make better work of them. The railing (styrene strips) should cover most the crimes I'm about to make. I'm sure some of you are wood workers and for those wood purists please forgive my use of stain as finding darker wood strips is difficult, and I have a color scheme in mind. I'm planning on doing a subtle two tone paint with flat black and this metallic bronze as a highlight. In person the wood matches a bit closer to the subtle color pallet in the paint. This is where I have got so far, tonight I will likely assemble the bed add the bolts and all that fun stuff. Bed update
PARTSMARTY Posted June 9, 2018 Posted June 9, 2018 I have this kit to build-i will be intensely watching-the wood looks great !!!
espo Posted June 9, 2018 Posted June 9, 2018 Great looking bed floor. Needless to say it looks like real wood.
landman Posted June 9, 2018 Posted June 9, 2018 There is absolutely nothing wrong with staining. The originals were likely just varnished but with use they soon looked stained. Your are right on in my opinion.
Belugawrx Posted June 9, 2018 Posted June 9, 2018 Very nice ...I like your joiner technique on the board edges,..that came out nice, more like oiled planks.... tell us about those rivets again,..? and the stake bolts? Keep up the good work, Cheers
Filthysanches Posted June 13, 2018 Author Posted June 13, 2018 Small update but I think it's an awesome discovery. Maybe some might know and I'm behind the times. Molotow liquid chrome, is nearly impossible to clear I've tried everything, even rpf doesn't have a solid solution to clear coating it. You can see the line for the coating top and bottom, with bare molotow in the center. For both these clears. I haven't tried spraying it mainly because I use it for trim and highlights. But the difference is negligible hoping it dries as well as it looks wet though I suspect it will. It's unclear what the difference between these two are as they are from the same company. For comparison here is another test with various other clears including an automotive 2 part similar to alclad, which I understand is popular.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted June 16, 2018 Posted June 16, 2018 I have not had any luck with clears over any chrome
Filthysanches Posted June 17, 2018 Author Posted June 17, 2018 10 hours ago, Modelbuilder Mark said: I have not had any luck with clears over any chrome Yeah this is the best I've seen. Some of the guys on Prop replica forum use All-Clad which has pretty good results as well but my opinion not quite as good as this is holding up. Take a look at this spoon I sprayed over the brushing shown above and it's holding up pretty well.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted June 17, 2018 Posted June 17, 2018 I have just gottent ot he point where I will not even try. I just plan my paint work so I hopefully fo not have to handle the chrome. There was a multi part spay on chrome that was on Jay Leno's garage a few years back, that if it worked would be THE solution. Just not very cost effective
Filthysanches Posted June 18, 2018 Author Posted June 18, 2018 8 hours ago, Modelbuilder Mark said: I have just gottent ot he point where I will not even try. I just plan my paint work so I hopefully fo not have to handle the chrome. There was a multi part spay on chrome that was on Jay Leno's garage a few years back, that if it worked would be THE solution. Just not very cost effective This looks cool, wonder if it would work to paint it on somehow.
Filthysanches Posted June 18, 2018 Author Posted June 18, 2018 UPDATE: I painted and sealed the black paint with matte clear to keep from scratches. I also shot the copper sides. I'm not going with a standard ratio between colors, I'm looking for a less flashy industrial scheme. Somewhat understated flash of color. I did my best to keep the surface as smooth as possible. I will be designing a logo for the door, my guess is this and the clear over the bronze will be one of the last things I do before assembly. Working on the engine is pretty easy with this truck. Very simple and streamline. I had to bore out the horn as it didn't have a hole. I did some minor weathering, I plan on using some dollar tree eye shadow to add dirt and more surface weather. For the distributor I used an aluminum cylinder filled with sculpey. I created holes for the wires as spark plug mounts are difficult to work with. I then used a heat gun to cure the clay which hardens the holes. I thin just dipped the wires in superglue and stuck them in the holes to harden. I then painted the boots and wired it into the engine and painted the boots there. The rest of this was a stock build for now. I intend on doing more scratch engine detail once the engine is mounted.
Jantrix Posted June 18, 2018 Posted June 18, 2018 I've NEVER seen anyone us actually makeup to weather a model. I wonder how it will do long term. Looking good though. Definitely my kind of work.
Filthysanches Posted June 18, 2018 Author Posted June 18, 2018 2 hours ago, Jantrix said: I've NEVER seen anyone us actually makeup to weather a model. I wonder how it will do long term. Looking good though. Definitely my kind of work. Its actually stickier than I expected. I saw that Tamyia had similar weathering pigment, although im sure it is made specifically for this. But for a dollar its worth a shot. The redish color matches rust pretty well.
Filthysanches Posted June 19, 2018 Author Posted June 19, 2018 Updated chassis I have more work to do
Jantrix Posted June 19, 2018 Posted June 19, 2018 17 hours ago, Filthysanches said: Its actually stickier than I expected. I fear it will stay that way. Make sure its kept dust free after you are done or it will get messy. It does look excellent though.
Earl Marischal Posted June 19, 2018 Posted June 19, 2018 I've been using cheap make up for weathering on model railway models for some time and it works fine. I also use the Tamika palettes for it with what I think are acceptable results. steve
Filthysanches Posted June 27, 2018 Author Posted June 27, 2018 Update: I designed a beer logo, then became abundantly clear of the limitations of my printer, and had to scale back the detail. I just picked these up at hobby town to see how they work. Here's me testing out the look with a reject print One challenge I had was to find a fixative to seal the ink that wouldn't dissolve under my clear coat. This seems to wotk Here they are all cleared. I learned a valuable lesson here, I didn't clean the aluminum out of my airbrush well, so I have aluminum flakes in the clear which bummed me out. More with the mocked body and wood. I found these barrels on ebay at 1:24 scale. They offer them in wood and aluminum, I bought the aluminum but was somewhat unhappy with the finish quality on what's supposed to be a smooth keg. What do you guys prefer? Still need to sand and polish the clear to remove orange peel and decal wave.
NOBLNG Posted June 27, 2018 Posted June 27, 2018 This is looking really sweet! I personally like the wooden barrels better.
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