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Posted

Is there a certain type of drill bit to drill through stainless steel photo etched sheets ?

my high speed steel bits won't really touch it....

any help appreciated

Posted (edited)

Cobalt bits are available in small sizes. They're not cheap, and it's advisable to have a drill press.

https://www.amazon.com/Dormer-Cobalt-Miniature-Uncoated-Conventional/dp/B007E4OUCE

Or tungsten carbide.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGLTJPK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00PGLTJPK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=MSH0RXJFB2NRWHRFYMX2&pd_rd_wg=efKxI&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=ckIOP&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=bc6c1ecf-c9c6-11e8-bf7f-6b3ae7c9f0a5

Another option is diamond-dust coated tips on HSS. Though intended primarily for glass and ceramics, they will cut through stainless...

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Micro-Drill-0-30mm-1-6mm/dp/B008J4DRMM

EDIT: A real problem with these is that you never really know what you'll get from the offshore stuff. Some of it is pretty decent, and some of the "cobalt" or "tungsten carbide" bits are no harder than HSS. Maybe some folks who have bought specific brands or part numbers can weigh in here.

NOTE: All of these are available in a wide range of diameters. I only posted a very small representative sampling.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

This is the kind of question, can I slay a dragon with Sawsall?  Depends on the hole size, tiny holes you're screwed.  Ace-Garageguy knows what he's talking about.

This is when a laser would be nice.  Keeping an eye on this topic.  :mellow:

Posted
5 hours ago, Dave Ambrose said:

Drilling thin sheets has always been problematic for me. I would think that some kind of punch will work better. 

How about micro center drills with an 1/8th inch (.125") shank???? I have one laying around.... I'll post a picture of it when I find it... ?

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, Deuces said:

How about micro center drills with an 1/8th inch (.125") shank???? I have one laying around.... I'll post a picture of it when I find it... ?

Kinda like these? All the micro bits I referenced above come in this configuration. (And starting with a center-punched dimple is the only way to fly. Again, using a drill-press, or a drilling rig setup for a Dremel, is a good way to avoid breaking these things. Drill into a piece of soft wood under your work, too.) Also, cobalt bits prefer low speeds.

61dDAalM%2BZL._SL1024_.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

Nope not them.... I'm still looking for my center drills... I did find my Starret pin vise set... The small point shank is???.. looks like 3/32" and it's made out of solid carbide... And the other looks like a 3/16" shank and it's h.s.s.

IMG_20181007_180431.jpg

Posted (edited)

I couldn't find my micro center drills... ?

But I find a pic on the net... This is what center drills look like.... The one on the bottom has a .125" shank. (1/8)".... Not sure on the tip diameter.... Maybe .025-.030" 

Center-Drill-Countersink-Pilot-Bit-Set-Lathe-Mill-5pcs-1-8-3-16-1-4-5.jpg_640x640q90.jpg

I have seen the tips being as small as .015-.020" in diameter...

Edited by Deuces
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Dave Ambrose said:

Drilling thin sheets has always been problematic for me. I would think that some kind of punch will work better. 

I thought the punch idea would deflect material instead, deforming the sheet,...

 and, once it's in place

5bba93bbc6349_IMG_6585(700x525).jpg.78cf3e1dc9c90a9e236c9330c1e2c92a.jpg

marked outboard of locator hole ..HSS got started5bba93d5a2b2b_IMG_6582(700x525).jpg.383c340ff4ada7fde2d05b36ccdab8f7.jpg

need to install those,...have not made it to the hardware store yet,..hey it's Thanksgiving....North of the Border...

Cheers, and thanks for the suggestions!!

Edited by Belugawrx
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Deuces said:

... This is what center drills look like...

...I have seen the tips being as small as .015-.020" in diameter...

Yeah...I've used a boatload on various countersinking applications.

Smallest I have here are about .040" for the small diameter.

Dang handy tools to have around, but I still think real cobalt micro drills, started with a small punched dimple, is the way to go.

47 minutes ago, Belugawrx said:

I thought the punch idea would deflect material instead, deforming the sheet,...

You're right. You just do NOT use a punch to make a hole in metal. It's not the way it's done. A center-punch is used to make a very small divot that makes a drill bit to stay on center as it starts, rather than skittering across the workpiece. It's very often wise to lightly dress the punched area flat, with a file, to remove the upset edge after punching too, as a drill bit can sometimes catch on the edge, and walk out of the hole...making a nice snail-trail all across your pretty work...and it happens much faster than you can catch it.

BUT IT IS ESSENTIAL to have the correct material for what you're drilling into, with the bit correctly sharpened.

I've seen guys who should know better waste time trying to drill stainless with HSS. Yeah, you might eventually WEAR a hole in it, but that's not the right way.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

1/8" shank tungsten carbide drills Ace showed are PC board drill bits (used to drill holes in electronic circuit boards).   They are very sharp (have split point) and will easily drill through stainless steel.  But they are very fragile and shatter easily. Best way to drill through thin material is to sandwich it tightly between 2 thicker materials (like wood or aluminum).  Otherwise, as you drill through the thin metal sheet, it will likely climb up the drill flutes and shatter the bit.

Posted (edited)

I think Dave was thinking of a punch and die set.  Waldron use to make a micro punch and die set but they seem to have gone out of business.  I use my set a lot but have not tried it on PE.  It might work but I doubt I will try it, now that I know it is not replaceable.  

I agree with Bill about carbide and cobalt drills for drilling stainless but they are very brittle and difficult to not break with a pin vise.  I use mine of my Sherline mill and still manage to break them.  I have two sources of machine tools that are very good and much less expensive than the hobby suppliers.  MSC list the manufacture and I have found the Kyocera bits to be better than average quality.  Mcmaster-Carr does not list manufacturers, so you are running a bit of a crapshoot with them, but I have gotten Kyocera bits from them on the roll of the dice.  Incidentally both automatically ship overnight  so you need to order enough make the order worth while or you can wind up spending as much on shipping as the part. 

MSC -  https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Holemaking/Micro-Drill-Bits?searchterm=carbide+micro+Drill+Bits&navid=4287923847#navid=4287923847+4288221358+4288228093&searchterm=carbide+micro+Drill+Bits

Mcmaster- Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/micro-size-drill-bits

These bits run between $6 and $17 each so you will feel the pain each time one breaks.  I can see them easily snapping going through thin metal.  It may be worth super gluing the PE to a backing piece of aluminum to stop the tear out, when you go through PE, from jamming the bit and breaking it.  I suggest super glue because you can heat the superglue with a micro torch and it will release the part rather easily.  Superglue does not like heat at all.   

Edited by Pete J.
Posted
38 minutes ago, Pete J. said:

I agree with Bill about carbide and cobalt drills for drilling stainless but they are very brittle and difficult to not break with a pin vise.  I use mine of my Sherline drill and still manage to break them...

Thanks for the great source info in that post, Pete. Very helpful.

The breakage thing is why I recommended at least a drill-press or a variable-speed Dremel setup on a drill stand.

Like you say, snapping those little bits can get expensive, no matter how well set up you are, or how careful you are.

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