Hemi Cuda

[NOBLNG]

Just started this one. It is the Revell special edition 2'n1 kit. It will basically be a stock setup with a little detailing. I am not going for factory correct paint colors and details, I just want it to be pleasing to my eye. Comments welcome, thanks for looking.

Edited January 31, 2019 by NOBLNG

[Brutalform]

So far... it’s pleasing to my eye. Nice work on that Hemi. 

[espo]

I have never been able to due a distributer like you have done. Yours look perfect. 

[NOBLNG]

35 minutes ago, espo said:

I have never been able to due a distributer like you have done. Yours look perfect. 

Thanks. I used 0.156 styrene rod and 30 gage (.020) wire wrapping wire. I first colored the end with black sharpie. Then, after sanding the terminals on the kit distributor level, I used a silver sharpie on them. I then used the kit distributor to transfer the silver marks onto the end of the styrene rod. I use the marks to drill the .021 holes for the wires. A little work with a 3-corner file between the holes gives I a more realistic look. I then chuck it in a drill and use a square file to turn the shaft down to size, all while wearing my 3.5X cheaters. The wire looms are .010 styrene with .024 hole drilled in them.

I have some pre-wired ones on order from a local HS, and some ordered online from Shapeways. If any of them are nice and in scale, I will try using them on the next one. 

Edited January 31, 2019 by NOBLNG

[NOBLNG]

A bit more progress on this one. This is Wicked Colors Magenta. Not quite a factory color, but close enough for me. It actually looks a lot more purple-wine color than the photos indicate. I did a spoon test and testors extreme gloss seems to be OK over this. Tamiya pearl clear crazed it a bit. Has anyone used this paint and cleared it successfully? 

Edit: I misplaced my decal sheet for a while and didn't realize they provided wood-grain decals for the dash and consol, so I painted them flat brown. I guess if I put a gloss over it the decals would stick.

Edited May 7, 2019 by NOBLNG

[Dann Tier]

This is looking GREAT!!, if you are interested, Hobby Design makes the BEST photo-etch set for this kit....three frets worth!!   I believe they may actually be the only ones who make a set. If you want to see what it looks like, just let me know, and I will send you photos of my set.

[Belugawrx]

I like that paint stand/holder

[NOBLNG]

11 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

This is looking GREAT!!, if you are interested, Hobby Design makes the BEST photo-etch set for this kit....three frets worth!!   I believe they may actually be the only ones who make a set. If you want to see what it looks like, just let me know, and I will send you photos of my set.

I've never used any photo etch so I am not sure. You could send me a link to it or pm me the pictures? I could not find the Revell Hemi 'Cuda set on their website.

Thanks, Greg.

[Dann Tier]

7 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I've never used any photo etch so I am not sure. You could send me a link to it or pm me the pictures? I could not find the Revell Hemi 'Cuda set on their website.

Thanks, Greg.

I will send it to you as soon as I can.

[BigTallDad]

On 1/31/2019 at 10:05 AM, NOBLNG said:

Thanks. I used 0.156 styrene rod and 30 gage (.020) wire wrapping wire. I first colored the end with black sharpie. Then, after sanding the terminals on the kit distributor level, I used a silver sharpie on them. I then used the kit distributor to transfer the silver marks onto the end of the styrene rod. I use the marks to drill the .021 holes for the wires. A little work with a 3-corner file between the holes gives I a more realistic look. I then chuck it in a drill and use a square file to turn the shaft down to size, all while wearing my 3.5X cheaters. The wire looms are .010 styrene with .024 hole drilled in them.

I have some pre-wired ones on order from a local HS, and some ordered online from Shapeways. If any of them are nice and in scale, I will try using them on the next one. 

Although the hemi doesn't lend itself to boots on the plug end of the wire, here's how you can do the boots for a more conventional engine.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101815-snug-spark-plug-boots/?tab=comments#comment-1422494

Edited May 8, 2019 by BigTallDad

[Dann Tier]

Heres what you get in the Hobby Design set...

[thatz4u]

Reminds me of the one I did a few years ago...in Panther Pink..

[NOBLNG]

Interior is pretty much done.

 

 

Edited May 8, 2019 by NOBLNG
change pics

[Rider]

Looking sharp. 

[Trendsetta68]

Nice looking 'Cuda ... the photo etched set is well worth it...

I used it on my build...

[NOBLNG]

Very nice builds there Guys! I am just going to use the parts it came with though, plus a few minor details of my own. Thanks anyways.

[Dominik]

Very nice built. classic choice of Colors, like it

[MeatMan]

Sweet build!

[crazyjim]

Interior looks good.

[NOBLNG]

16 hours ago, Dominik said:

Very nice built. classic choice of Colors, like it

Well after another 8-12 coats (I've lost count actually) it no longer looks close to the factory color. After the first few coats it looked good from a few feet away but up close you could see right through the paint. I have had a hard time believing that some very talented folks on here have applied more than a dozen coats of paint. I have previously used no more than four, and have completely obliterated script with three coats (airbrushed). I think I may be getting the hang of it (fingers crossed)

[NOBLNG]

This is my first serious attempt at a vinyl roof and I am little unsure as to the best order to do things. I figure I need a glossy surface for the foil so I laid down a coat of gloss black on the roof. I think I will put a couple coats of gloss clear over everything before foiling and decals. Then a few more coats of clear to seal the decals and the foil. Then carefully mask the foiled trim and the rest of the body and put the flat black texture on the roof.

[Dann Tier]

Wow, that interior looks PERFECT!!!

[NOBLNG]

I detailed the wheels to look as close to factory as I could. I clear coated the body with Createx 5620, sanded with #3000 and applied the decals and foil and re-coated with more 5620. I was hoping that the second round of clear would go on smoother than the first...It didn't. I was thinking that I would have to sand again and then clear it with something else, but I think I will leave it alone rather than risk ruining it completely. I did manage to sand through the paint a bit on the hood edges so I will have to touch it up and re-clear that. Lessons learned for the next one. The roof has one coat of Tamiya XF-86 flat clear

Edited May 19, 2019 by NOBLNG

[Brutalform]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

I detailed the wheels to look as close to factory as I could. I clear coated the body with Createx 5620, sanded with #3000 and applied the decals and foil and re-coated with more 5620. I was hoping that the second round of clear would go on smoother than the first...It didn't. I was thinking that I would have to sand again and then clear it with something else, but I think I will leave it alone rather than risk ruining it completely. I did manage to sand through the paint a bit on the hood edges so I will have to touch it up and re-clear that. Lessons learned for the next one. The roof has one coat of Tamiya XF-86 flat clear

Your build is coming along nicely. If you ever want to go a step further on the wheels, check out Fireball Modelworks. Joseph makes these exact wheels in a three piece design, with wheel backs. I have used them, and have another set on the way for another RR build. You did a nice job on yours though. Your centers are correct being darker for your year car. 

Edited May 19, 2019 by Brutalform

[NOBLNG]

24 minutes ago, Brutalform said:

Your build is coming along nicely. If you ever want to go a step further on the wheels, check out Fireball Modelworks. Joseph makes these exact wheels in a three piece design, with wheel backs. I have used them, and have another set on the way for another RR build. 

Thanks for the tip. I am more of a "work with what I've got" (read cheap) kind of builder.

I put a touch of turn signal amber on the backs of the kit lens and put them in the only nice soft jawed clamps I have to dry in the dehydrator with some other parts. Well the clamps managed to crack both lens! So I made a reasonable replacement set (I think) out of Bondic. I little touch of future on the outside will help to clear them up a bit maybe?

Edited May 19, 2019 by NOBLNG