round 2 66 nova problems

[bauercrew]

I just bought a 66 nova prostreet that round 2 has ,,i have nothing but problems with this car its molded in blue and it seems to me the plastic is really soft, tryed to open up the panel seams a little and it just seemed like it wanted to stick to the plastic instead of cutting it (meaning the panel scribbing tool)if that makes any sense, and tryed to primmer body ,what a joke, always have used duplicolor and used thin coats on every model have built and never a problem ,but this time with the nova this thing crazed like crazy,stripped the primmer off to bare body and you can see the crazing on body,tryed rustoleam primmer same thing ,crazing ,now strange thing ,went back to duplicolor ,this time i used red oxzide primmer and guess what no crazing?? Yet. and the seats ,another joke ,to big, dont even fit in the interior bucket when you put the sides on, i built this model many many years ago in fact i went to look it over and the seats are perfect in the  the older version of that model to me was perfect. and i also bought the 57 chevy they have it is also molded in blue ,the version that has the molded in exhaust on chasis, and same thing with the panel seams ,the plastic is SOFT. SO FOR ME  im going to avoid ANYTHING from round 2 from here on out.

[randyc]

Unfortunately it seems like the plastic "alloys" or chemical mix of plastic is no longer consistent.  nor are the paints like they used to be.  So that leaves us needing to check each and every kit before painting with anything stronger than acrylics and model enamels.   I have several kits that have had same issue.  As well as warped bodies from dehydrator.  Sorry for your mishaps.  It is very frustrating to use paints and such that have always worked only to have your work ruined or stopped by a bad interaction.  Been there, hate it.  

[MrObsessive]

I'll keep screaming this from the mountaintops. PLEASE barrier coat ALL of your plastics before using any type of automotive paints on today's kits. The plastic being used today is NOT the same as it was 20 years ago. It's not as dense and yes, it crazes much easier than it used to.

I'll say that I've been noticing this since about 2004 or so. When I'm building a newer kit, especially made since the 2000's on up, I'll take the extra time to put a barrier coat over a light coat of primer such as BIN Zinsser sealer.

Hope this helps and sorry about your mishap. There's not much more frustrating than that!

[Rider]

22 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

I'll keep screaming this from the mountaintops. PLEASE barrier coat ALL of your plastics before using any type of automotive paints on today's kits. The plastic being used today is NOT the same as it was 20 years ago. It's not as dense and yes, it crazes much easier than it used to.

I'll say that I've been noticing this since about 2004 or so. When I'm building a newer kit, especially made since the 2000's on up, I'll take the extra time to put a barrier coat over a light coat of primer such as BIN Zinsser sealer.

Hope this helps and sorry about your mishap. There's not much more frustrating than that!

Thanks Bill for continuing to shout this out. There are a few BIN. Which do you use? I am assuming you only use a simple dust coat. 

 

[NOBLNG]

23 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

PLEASE barrier coat ALL of your plastics ...I'll take the extra time to put a barrier coat over a light coat of primer such as BIN Zinsser sealer.

I too am interested to know which sealer you use. I imagine it would work to seal body filler also??

[MrObsessive]

1 hour ago, Rider said:

Thanks Bill for continuing to shout this out. There are a few BIN. Which do you use? I am assuming you only use a simple dust coat. 

 

I use this one.............

You'll have to mix it up a bit when you first open it..........also you'll need an airbrush. They do make an aerosol, but I don't recommend it as it sprays VERY heavy. You want just enough to cover your base primer coat. After that, put on another coat of your regular primer and then your color coats. That should ward off any crazing.

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

I too am interested to know which sealer you use. I imagine it would work to seal body filler also??

Yes, I HIGHLY recommend this for sealing filler! I had to learn the hard way years ago when I was building a 1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria hardtop that not all fillers play nice with primers. I had originally used Future as a sealer, but I didn't put enough on and I can now see where I did the bodywork when I had to split the roof to fit the body. Lesson learned. I'll only use the BIN Zinnser from here on out for playing well with putties. One example where this came in handy: When I was building my '59 Chevy years ago, those of you that seen that saw all the body work that went into it.

There was NO WAY I wanted any surprises with the paint so I used the BIN Zinsser on that to ward off any disasters. I'd like to post a pic of a VERY recent WIP I did with my '74 Corvette, but Fotki has indigestion right now and won't let me on. I'm not at my laptop where those pics are, otherwise I could upload them from my hard disc.

Either which way, give this a shot. Kits are too expensive now to be ruined by bad paint. At least this gives you that extra shield of protection.  

[Rider]

Thanks Bill. Much appreciated. 

[MrObsessive]

You're welcome Lloyd!

Fotki is back up and running again........for now. Here are a couple pics where I used the BIN on the '74 'Vette. One of the main areas that I had to do some putty work was on the roof. The original builder used LOTS of tube glue to get the glass runner in. Well, this literally warped the one side of the roof, to the point where I had to fill the depression in with Dynatron Putty-Cote and then feather edged this out.

Here's the body first covered in Plastikote T-35........

And now covered with the BIN Zinnser......

Another coat of primer was put on after the sealer with the color coats to follow and now you can see where there's no crazing or bodywork putty showing through, particularly on the roof.

[TarheelRick]

Not sure I completely understand your painting sequence.  Do you primer the kit, then add the sealer, then another primer coat prior to color coats?  If so, what keeps the first coat of primer from crazing the plastic?

[Jim N]

I read Bill's post and was a little confused too, but I reread his first and I am fairly certain the sequence is this"

BIN Zinsser

Primer

BIN Zinsser

Primer

Paint

Edited April 30, 2019 by Jim N
accuaracy

[MrObsessive]

8 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Not sure I completely understand your painting sequence.  Do you primer the kit, then add the sealer, then another primer coat prior to color coats?  If so, what keeps the first coat of primer from crazing the plastic?

 

7 hours ago, Jim N said:

I read Bill's post and was a little confused too, but I reread his first and I am fairly certain the sequence is this"

BIN Zinsser

Primer

BIN Zinsser

Primer

Paint

Sorry for any confusion. You want to put on a light coat of primer on the body first. The key here is LIGHT because yes, too heavy a coat can craze the plastic. It's one of the reasons I'm not crazy about Duplicolor paints for example. I've found them to be too hot these days for today's plastics and my primer of choice is the Plastikote T-35.

Plastikote can be a bit hard to get...........some others like Tamiya primer for example, but man is that stuff EXPEN$IVE!

This is also where an airbrush comes in very handy. I'm not a fan of spray cans at all as there's no way to regulate how much paint will come out and what kind of force you're going to get. Some are proficient at spray bombing stuff----I'm just not crazy about using cans.

You then want to follow this up with a coat of the BIN sealer, then put ANOTHER coat of primer on top of that, followed by your color coats. As you can see from the pic I posted, I got good results doing it this way. You can put the BIN on bare plastic, but I can't guarantee that it'll bind with the plastic well. Better to put it on paint such as primer.

One thing I forgot to mention on the 'Vette.....another reason I wanted to use the BIN was the hood had that scored line on the underside of the hood which is GUARANTEED to show through on the top side whenever you're painting with a hotter paint. Using the BIN wards against that.

So my sequence of this is as follows:

LIGHT coat of primer
BIN Zinsser
Another coat of primer (or however many suits you)
Color coats

Hope that clears things up.

Edited May 1, 2019 by MrObsessive

[FredRPG]

I may be wrong, but I believe shellac like BIN Z should stick to anything, even glass if that's a concern.  

[MrObsessive]

1 hour ago, FredRPG said:

I may be wrong, but I believe shellac like BIN Z should stick to anything, even glass if that's a concern.  

I originally used BIN on bare plastic when primer was put over it. I was building Revell's Viper and saw it wear away a bit too much when sanding as it was getting down to bare plastic. It seems to bond better when put over paint. At least in my case that's what happened.

[TarheelRick]

Thanks for clearing that up. Guess I need to get back to the bench and start trying some of these different procedures.

[Jim N]

Thanks Bill.  And by the way, the Vette looks gorgeous.

[JohnU]

I thought this stuff was only for blocking mildew stains on drywall so I have a question about using BIN zinsser on plastic. This product must be kinda thick for airbrushing. Do you thin it? With what and what ratio? Thanks for all this helpful  paint info! If this really works it’s gonna make my paint jobs a lot better for sure!

[MrObsessive]

2 hours ago, JohnU said:

I thought this stuff was only for blocking mildew stains on drywall so I have a question about using BIN zinsser on plastic. This product must be kinda thick for airbrushing. Do you thin it? With what and what ratio? Thanks for all this helpful  paint info! If this really works it’s gonna make my paint jobs a lot better for sure!

Right out of the can mixed, I didn't have to do any thinning at all. You can use 91% alcohol to thin it out if needed. I used my old Badger Crescendo to airbrush it since it's old and also it can put out a bit heavier spray than my other airbrushes.

10 hours ago, Jim N said:

Thanks Bill.  And by the way, the Vette looks gorgeous.

 Thanks Jim!

[Straightliner59]

On 4/29/2019 at 7:38 AM, MrObsessive said:

BIN Zinsser sealer.

Bill, does this stuff need to be thinned, for airbrushing? If so, what do you use? Thanks!