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Posted

Years ago, when I first discovered Humbrol enamels, I learned through model magazines and online forums that these paints are easier to airbrush when you reduce them with cheap lacquer thinner.  My own experiences back that up, but it seems model companies are now using cheaper grades of plastic that are more susceptible to lacquer crazing than before.  Can I continue shooting these by my preferred method if I switch to something other than hobby-level primers?   

Posted

Good question. I’ve been thinning hobby enamels with hardware store lacquer thinner for years without a problem. Some new kits do seem particularly susceptible to crazing, though. Don’t know if the enamel/lacquer combo is a problem on those kits. I too would like to hear if this has caused anyone grief. 

Posted

I use art shop “Low Odor Turpentine” to thin Humbrol enamel for airbrushing. OK, it’s more expensive, but how much do you actually use for thinning? I’m still on my first (roughly 1pt) bottle after 15 years and counting.  It’s never had any effect on plastic or primer. You can still use lacquer thinner for flushing and cleaning the brush.

best,

M.

Posted

Mr. Obsessive (Bill) recently addressed that exact concern about newer styrene crazing. His solution to this  is he has been spraying a base coat of BINZ stain blocker, specifically their line that is schallac based. Bill also pointed out the spray can is too heavy and prefers to thin out and you the  air brush.  

IMG_5912.PNG

Posted

I HIGHLY recommend Mr Hobby Thinners, both the normal and leveling thinner, but I am going to agree with Peter about using Humbrol's own thinner, its best to stay within the family.

Posted
22 hours ago, martinfan5 said:

I HIGHLY recommend Mr Hobby Thinners, both the normal and leveling thinner, but I am going to agree with Peter about using Humbrol's own thinner, its best to stay within the family.

I have used Model Master airbrush reducer for airbrushing Testors/MM enamel paints and gotten satisfactory results. When I tried the stay-within-the-family thing with Humbrol paints, I wasn't as happy with how things typically turned out, hence the switch to lacquer thinner.  

Some of you may recall a board member whose actual name is Donn Yost (Lone Wolf?).  He uses lacquer thinner exclusively with hobby enamels and gets amazing results.  

Posted
12 minutes ago, Monty said:

I have used Model Master airbrush reducer for airbrushing Testors/MM enamel paints and gotten satisfactory results. When I tried the stay-within-the-family thing with Humbrol paints, I wasn't as happy with how things typically turned out, hence the switch to lacquer thinner.  

Some of you may recall a board member whose actual name is Donn Yost (Lone Wolf?).  He uses lacquer thinner exclusively with hobby enamels and gets amazing results.  

Again, I am going to highly recommend Hr Hobby Thinners, good luck to you.

Posted
22 hours ago, martinfan5 said:

Again, I am going to highly recommend Hr Hobby Thinners, good luck to you.

Ya know, I really like their aqueous acrylics, so I'll take your advice and give it a shot.  

Posted
1 minute ago, Monty said:

Ya know, I really like their aqueous acrylics, so I'll take your advice and give it a shot.  

Lets us know how it works.

Posted

I usually use thinners which are specifically made for the paint.  But for cleaning airbrush I use cheap generic lacquer thinner, but for as little thinner as is needed for thinning the paint for airbrushing, the branded thinner is not *THAT* much of an expense.

If you don't want to use Humbrol brand thinner, Testors enamel or Model Master thinner will work (mineral spirits based).  Even mineral spirits from the hardware store should work on Humbrol.  But always test a new combination of paint/thinner on a scrap piece of the model or on a disposable spoon (made from Polystyrene).

Posted (edited)

 

 

On 5/2/2019 at 9:50 AM, Rider said:

Mr. Obsessive (Bill) recently addressed that exact concern about newer styrene crazing. His solution to this  is he has been spraying a base coat of BINZ stain blocker, specifically their line that is schallac based. Bill also pointed out the spray can is too heavy and prefers to thin out and you the  air brush.  

IMG_5912.PNG

A couple things about using BIN. 

First lay down a thin coat of primer , or any flat paint on the plastic that hasn't been sanded. BIN will not stick to smooth, shiny plastic and needs something to grip to or it will chip and flake easily.

Also use cheap rubbing alcohol to thin it and for cleanup. Lacquer thinner , turpentine, mineral spirits etc. have no affect on it. 

Get a spray can and decant it to use in your airbrush. It's kinda thick sprayed strait from the can. You'll never use even a quart can before the inside of the lid starts to rust and then it's no good for what we use it for.

Use multiple thin coats. Its blocked even the hottest HOK lacquer I've sprayed on it , even strait lacquer thinner.  I've also used it as a "high build" primer to smooth out lacquer crazing on models. It wet sands beautifully.

I've been using it for almost 30 years now. Probably the first person to use it for models and all the above comes from trial and error, first hand experience experimenting with it.

Edited by Can-Con
Posted
1 hour ago, Can-Con said:

 

 

A couple things about using BIN. 

. . .

I've been using it for almost 30 years now. Probably the first person to use it for models and all the above comes from trial and error, first hand experience experimenting with it.

I have used Floqil Barrier (made for the same purpose) for decades, when it was still available. It was basically another alcohol based shellac-type product similar to BIN.  I still have few bottles of it (I stocked up when RPM discontinued Floquil paints.

Posted

I can't say about effects on plastic but i mix all my enamels including humbrol, with hardware bought enamel thinners.  Works fine for me.   Stopped using hobby brand thinners a long time ago.

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