Sweet Victoria

[mrm]

So, Last night I managed to spray some color. It is a Tamiya TS-92 Metallic orange. Altho it is a beautiful color, I am not happy with it. I was excited about using it and thought it would be perfect for my project, but once on the car, I realized it is not what I was looking for. Don't get me wrong. It is a great color with great coverage and consistency. I just feel like it gives the body a somewhat vintage feel and I am after a lot more modern look. I need more "POP".

So I am repainting it with something with a little more WOW-factor. Sweet Victoria needs something more "bling". Besides, the paint showed some areas that need to be addressed, so now that would be done before the new color. 

 

[oldrevellfan]

so  nice !!

[mrm]

Just now, oldrevellfan said:

so  nice !!

Thank you.

Like I said, the color is really nice and the paintjob is fine, but I wanted something brighter and more vibrant for this particular build. So I just sanded the body again and it’s going to be repainted in a Lamborghini tri-coat Arancio Atlas. I will keep in mind this color (the Tamiya orange) for a more traditional street rod project tho. 

[mrm]

So, new paint. It is Lamborghini Arancio Atlas. It is a tri-coat, which uses plain white for base, with translucent orange pearl mid-coat. I decided to spice it up slightly, so instead of plain white I used the base-coat from a Ferrari tri-coat paint, the Bianco Fuji. It is a white that has a slight pearl shine to it, kind of like inside a seashell. 

Now I am happy with the color, altho I went a touch heavy on the clear coat. Nothing a good ole wetsanding can't fix tho. It will just take some extra elbow grease. LOL

Indoors picture.

 

Outdoors pics.

Thanks for looking and stay tuned...

Edited November 6, 2019 by mrm

[gman]

I was going to say "Wow" with the Tamiya paint job, but would have to retract that statement gracefully once I saw the new/improved one

[mrm]

And a quick mock up. I am very happy with where it stands. And the paint goes perfect with the silver and chrome drivetrain I planned. The previous color did not go very well with the silver. Now the clear needs to cure a little longer, before I can wetsand it and polish the body. So, I'll be concentrating on the interior and engine and the other 4 projects.

Thanks for looking and stay tuned. 

 

Edited November 6, 2019 by mrm

[mrm]

On 11/6/2019 at 1:05 PM, gman said:

I was going to say "Wow" with the Tamiya paint job, but would have to retract that statement gracefully once I saw the new/improved one

Thanks Greg.

 

This morning I got the rear suspension done. The inner and outer radius rods were cut from the four link front pieces in the '32 kits. The original chrome pieces had a lot of flash and some areas had to be sanded. Molotow markers to the rescue. I love them. 

 

I'm starting on the front end. Then everything can be touched up if needed and my Sweet Victoria would have a pretty blink chassis.

hanks for looking and stay tuned. 

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi!

That Buttera IRS is really sweet. Nice work adapting it to your chassis!

CT

[mrm]

1 hour ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

Hi!

That Buttera IRS is really sweet. Nice work adapting it to your chassis!

CT

Thank you Claude. 
It’s more like I adapted the chassis to the suspension. LOL. And I actually kinda standardized it a little. So now is more like a standard show-rod IRS than the Buttera’s one off. 

[mrm]

My plan was to work on my T-Touring last night, but what fun is it to make plans if we don't brake them?

So I continued with my Sweet Victoria. 

After the rear end got wrapped up, I turned my attention to the front. The spindles had to be modified in order to get the front to sit where I wanted it. Some styrene rod, lots of sanding and smoothing (mold lines were pretty bad on these pieces) and some Molotow chrome later, I had the front exactly where I wanted it. 

 The steering rack is a nice piece, but the tie rod ends are molded really bulky. Those were sanded considerably, to make them look more "refined" and the mounting bosses on the hubs were cut down. Now we had a convincing modern street rod chassis with independent suspension all around.

 

It still needs front brakes, the front wheels/tires to be narrowed a little and better mounting hubs on the rear, but we have a roller. 

 

The countless mock ups, calculations and measurements paid off! The stance is exactly where I wanted it.

 

Next I am turning my attention to the engine.

Thanks for looking and stay tuned.

Edited November 8, 2019 by mrm

[alan barton]

Michael, just wanted to say how much I am enjoying this stunning rendition of a contemporary rod.  I have done adaptations of the Buttera suspension and as you pointed out, they are great parts but require a little massaging to get a convincing result. I love your front crossmember - will definitely be trying that next time!

With the exotic colours you are using, are you able to get them mixed a local paint shop is do you have to find a specialist supplier?  I know colours is colours but I just wonder if your average guy carries formulas for Lambo, Ferrari, etc.

And yeah, you nailed the stance!

Cheers

Alan

Edited November 8, 2019 by alan barton

[mrm]

20 minutes ago, alan barton said:

Michael, just wanted to say how much I am enjoying this stunning rendition of a contemporary rod.  I have done adaptations of the Buttera suspension and as you pointed out, they are great parts but require a little massaging to get a convincing result. I love your front crossmember - will definitely be trying that next time!

With the exotic colours you are using, are you able to get them mixed a local paint shop is do you have to find a specialist supplier?  I know colours is colours but I just wonder if your average guy carries formulas for Lambo, Ferrari, etc.

And yeah, you nailed the stance!

Cheers

Alan

Alan, thank you for the kind words. 
About paint. All you need to do is find out who your local paint shop is that is official PPG rep. A lot of these colors were originally not PPG, but I have found that there is a PPG conversion code for pretty much any manufacturer color out there. If you establish a good relationship with your shop, they would not charge you the stupid prices the colors cost. Some of these colors can be tricky tho, as  to add all the component to them, there may be a minimum quantity made. Most of the time it’s 4oz. I ask them to mix them “sprayable” for me, which means they are already reduced. That makes them 8oz minimum. So for example, I had Lamborghini Arancio Argos mixed for me (which is a darker much more orange tri-coat). That meant getting 8oz ready to spray base coat and 8oz mid coat. It was $50 out the door. That may seem a lot, but when taking few things into consideration, not really. First off, they can be done literally in 10 minutes, while you’re chatting. Then consider that you can use the base color by itself or apply the mid coat over different base. So really you are buying more than one color. The quality is far superior to anything out of a spray can and when reduced with medium reducer (that’s what I ask for) can be applied over Tamiya primer easily and dries to the touch within minutes. With Tamiya spray cans approaching the $10 price, it’s actually not expensive at all. 
   The advantage I have is that my local PPG rep is across the street for me and I can walk over and get a color done and be spraying it literally within 30 minutes. As a comparison, the nearest hobby shop is 120 miles away. 
   Hope I was helpful. 

[alan barton]

Sure was helpful!  I have been a spray can guy for years and am only just recently started warily using an airbrush.  And I agree totally with your value for money comments - we pay around $12 a can for Testors and around $16 a can for Tamiya - silver is a mind numbing $23!!!!!

Cheers

Alan

[BIGTRUCK]

That an impressive frame.

[Claude Thibodeau]

1 hour ago, mrm said:

Alan, thank you for the kind words. 
About paint. All you need to do is find out who your local paint shop is that is official PPG rep. A lot of these colors were originally not PPG, but I have found that there is a PPG conversion code for pretty much any manufacturer color out there. If you establish a good relationship with your shop, they would not charge you the stupid prices the colors cost. Some of these colors can be tricky tho, as  to add all the component to them, there may be a minimum quantity made. Most of the time it’s 4oz. I ask them to mix them “sprayable” for me, which means they are already reduced. That makes them 8oz minimum. So for example, I had Lamborghini Arancio Argos mixed for me (which is a darker much more orange tri-coat). That meant getting 8oz ready to spray base coat and 8oz mid coat. It was $50 out the door. That may seem a lot, but when taking few things into consideration, not really. First off, they can be done literally in 10 minutes, while you’re chatting. Then consider that you can use the base color by itself or apply the mid coat over different base. So really you are buying more than one color. The quality is far superior to anything out of a spray can and when reduced with medium reducer (that’s what I ask for) can be applied over Tamiya primer easily and dries to the touch within minutes. With Tamiya spray cans approaching the $10 price, it’s actually not expensive at all. 
   The advantage I have is that my local PPG rep is across the street for me and I can walk over and get a color done and be spraying it literally within 30 minutes. As a comparison, the nearest hobby shop is 120 miles away. 
   Hope I was helpful. 

Hi!

As a side note: My local PPG dealer also offers both SOLVENT BASED paints, and so-called WATER BASED. Both can be coated with a clear top coat, but the water based is "cooler", and may come handy if your primer does not handle automotive paints as well as the fine Tamya primer obviously does. Both can be packaged in a spray can too, if more convenient for you!

CT

[Plowboy]

Really liking this! Makes me want to build a modern hot rod! 

[mrm]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the comments.

I found the air filter that came on the engine of the Foose truck to be both too small looking for such a big motor and too ordinary for my build. So I took a strip of plastic and drilled some holes in it. Next I glued it around the original part.

 

Then I glued the new assembly to a plat piece of scrap plastic.

 

I shaped it to the radius of the previous part, but to continue straight back to the firewall.

 

Next I glued some strips of plastic on top and lateer on sanded them down to desired profile.

 

Some adjustments had to be made, so everything fit together. Main one being the new filter to fit over the carb and sit lower, because otherwise it was hitting the louvers on the back side of the top hood.

 

Once happy with the fitment, I painted it body color.

 

And then masked the bottom part and the stripes..

 

Once painted in silver, mask removed and on the engine. Note that the belts were installed and some new ones made from electrical insulation tape. 

 

What it would look like in the car. Just needs some detailing and maybe a clear coat.

 

Thanks for looking and stay tuned. 

 

[alan barton]

Michael, this is going from strength to strength.  A Ridler winner forsure!

Cheers

Alan

[mrm]

32 minutes ago, alan barton said:

Michael, this is going from strength to strength.  A Ridler winner forsure!

Cheers

Alan

Thank you Alan. I don’t know about the Ridler part. The exhaust scares me. Or rather makes me lazy. LOL. 

[MeatMan]

Sweet build! Awesome chassis!

[mrm]

On 11/9/2019 at 6:41 AM, MeatMan said:

Sweet build! Awesome chassis!

Thank you Dennis. I’ve been wanting a rod with independent suspension all around for some time. I just finally grabbed that bull by the horns. 

[mrm]

Guess who is making its way back to the bench…….

[gman]

Happy to see that- looking forward to your updates.

[mrm]

57 minutes ago, gman said:

Happy to see that- looking forward to your updates.

Thank you. 
I definitely want this one done. I took almost a year completely off modeling and I’m itching. LOL 

[Beamerman]

This is perfekt hot rodding! Awesome!