Jon Cole Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 This is the second time this model has let loose a body panel. Can't remember for sure, but I think it was two part epoxy. The culprit is the silver base coat I used. The yellow plastic was first primed, then sprayed with the silver base coat. My inner panels popped off, exposing the silver paint. Makes sense, as the silver paint prevents bleed thru. Guess it also resists adhesion. I ground off what paint I could, then reglued and clamped.
stitchdup Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 Looks like a pretty cool bus, is there a thread for it?
Jon Cole Posted December 8, 2019 Author Posted December 8, 2019 9 minutes ago, stitchdup said: Looks like a pretty cool bus, is there a thread for it? No, I should have, as I take the pics as I go, but my prob is I build at a glacier like speed. I bet this one has been on my bench for a year or more. I have most everything I need, except motivation. Really, I am almost done. Next I need to glue the floor to the body, then the roof. Home stretch. I'm aiming for a 2021 completion.
El Roberto Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Jon Cole said: No, I should have, as I take the pics as I go, but my prob is I build at a glacier like speed. I bet this one has been on my bench for a year or more. I have most everything I need, except motivation. Really, I am almost done. Next I need to glue the floor to the body, then the roof. Home stretch. I'm aiming for a 2021 completion. Don't rush it......
OldNYJim Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 I’d like to see a build thread on this one too! Or some more pics at least!
StevenGuthmiller Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 What silver paint did you use? I remember this problem years ago when I used Testors silver enamel for a base. It was notorious for terrible top coat adhesion. Steve
mod3l Lover Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 Also, you are trying to glue something that is convex in shape to something that is concave in shape!! You might need to warm it in some way before clamping it together!! David S.
OldNYJim Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 4 hours ago, mod3l Lover said: Also, you are trying to glue something that is convex in shape to something that is concave in shape!! You might need to warm it in some way before clamping it together!! David S. I’ve struggled with that before too - you have a flat-ish panel and it’s hard to glue. I started using Gorilla contact adhesive and it works GREAT - it’s super thick and has a slow dry time so you can get stuff positioned nicely, and it cleans up easily if you get a drizzle in the wrong place
Bucky Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 How long did you leave the parts clamped? That might make a difference. I tend to leave parts clamped for longer than might be necessary, just in case.
mod3l Lover Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 And too sir, if you put a "slice" of styrene in the gap between the panel, and the side of van body it won't spring back. And lose it's adhesion in that little gap! ? David S.
stitchdup Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 Tbh I'd probably have given up on trying to glue it and used some double sided tape
DukeE Posted December 9, 2019 Posted December 9, 2019 Great paint, fun kit. Gorilla sounds like worth a try. That scribed Plastruct you're using?
Bucky Posted December 9, 2019 Posted December 9, 2019 2 hours ago, mod3l Lover said: And too sir, if you put a "slice" of styrene in the gap between the panel, and the side of van body it won't spring back. And lose it's adhesion in that little gap! ? David S. Using a shim is a good idea.
peteski Posted December 9, 2019 Posted December 9, 2019 (edited) I thought that the first axiom of styrene model building was to make sure that both glued surfaces are bare styrene (no "chrome", no paint). That will assure a good bond. Otherwise, the bond is only as good as the weakest layer being glued (usually paint or plating). Edited December 9, 2019 by peteski
Blazeguard Posted December 9, 2019 Posted December 9, 2019 (edited) 22 hours ago, CabDriver said: I’ve struggled with that before too - you have a flat-ish panel and it’s hard to glue. I started using Gorilla contact adhesive and it works GREAT - it’s super thick and has a slow dry time so you can get stuff positioned nicely, and it cleans up easily if you get a drizzle in the wrong place Is this the stuff you're talking about? https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-clear-grip/ I've been scared to try that Gorilla glue because it says that it's NOT recommended for polystyrene. I'll have to give it a try. Edited December 9, 2019 by Blazeguard Added link
STYRENE-SURFER Posted December 9, 2019 Posted December 9, 2019 17 hours ago, peteski said: I thought that the first axiom of styrene model building was to make sure that both glued surfaces are bare styrene (no "chrome", no paint). That will assure a good bond. Otherwise, the bond is only as good as the weakest layer being glued (usually paint or plating). This is one of the golden rules of model building. That being said... Its always a good recommendation to scuff up the surfaces while using an epoxy type glue. Nothing wrong with your choice to use it. Masking off places that will eventually be glued together can be troublesome, but the inside of a body isn't that hard.
OldNYJim Posted December 9, 2019 Posted December 9, 2019 3 hours ago, Blazeguard said: Is this the stuff you're talking about? https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-clear-grip/ I've been scared to try that Gorilla glue because it says that it's NOT recommended for polystyrene. I'll have to give it a try. Yep, that’s the stuff - I’ve used some other brands with no issue either...but as always, your mileage may vary and test it on something you’re not worried about first...
SfanGoch Posted December 10, 2019 Posted December 10, 2019 It's also washer & dryer safe. Good to know if you're going to launder your models.
Bainford Posted December 12, 2019 Posted December 12, 2019 On 08/12/2019 at 12:30 AM, StevenGuthmiller said: What silver paint did you use? I remember this problem years ago when I used Testors silver enamel for a base. It was notorious for terrible top coat adhesion. This was my first thought as well. Some silver and gold paints seem to have an almost powdery surface layer that resists adhesion of tape, decals, top coats, etc.
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted December 12, 2019 Posted December 12, 2019 On 12/8/2019 at 10:37 PM, peteski said: I thought that the first axiom of styrene model building was to make sure that both glued surfaces are bare styrene (no "chrome", no paint). That will assure a good bond. Otherwise, the bond is only as good as the weakest layer being glued (usually paint or plating). X2 -Always scrape off the paint (and plating) on both surfaces being glued together. Model building 101.... -RRR
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