Bare metal foil small writing

[jaftygas]

I wouldn’t dream of sanding. Just wait an hour after a coat and get one of thous tightly wound Tamiya sticks and mineral spirits. Then go to town lightly.

However, judging from your success, you’re probably right.

[atomicholiday]

8 hours ago, jaftygas said:

I wouldn’t dream of sanding. Just wait an hour after a coat and get one of thous tightly wound Tamiya sticks and mineral spirits. Then go to town lightly.

However, judging from your success, you’re probably right.

This could be worth trying.   It could give you a better chance of getting more detail out of the script.  

My only thought is that it could be a lot of handling, with more risk of contamination of the paint job between coats. 

Still.  I might give it a shot on a practice piece sometime just to see how it goes. 

[Bucky]

14 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You certainly could do that, but it sounds like a lot of unnecessary work to me. 
 

And if you’re sanding rather than using a solvent to remove the paint from the script, there’s a high probability of sanding through the foil.

 

 

Steve

I haven't tried your technique, yet, but I am going to on my current project, a '67 Dodge Coronet. Do you remove the paint from the script before you apply your clear coats, or after?

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Bucky said:

I haven't tried your technique, yet, but I am going to on my current project, a '67 Dodge Coronet. Do you remove the paint from the script before you apply your clear coats, or after?

I remove the paint from the scripts before clear.

 

 

Steve

[atomicholiday]

This is nowhere near as good as many others can do on this forum, but since we’re on the subject and I just finished cleaning the paint off this one, here you go.  This hasn’t been clear coated yet but that’s my next step.

 I don’t think it’s too terrible, especially considering it’s only the second time I’ve tried this technique.  It’ll get easier with practice.  I’m starting the body emblems next.

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 minutes ago, atomicholiday said:

This is nowhere near as good as many others can do on this forum, but since we’re on the subject and I just finished cleaning the paint off this one, here you go.  This hasn’t been clear coated yet but that’s my next step.

 I don’t think it’s too terrible, especially considering it’s only the second time I’ve tried this technique.  It’ll get easier with practice.  I’m starting the body emblems next.

To the contrary.

It looks very good!

 

 

Steve

[chepp]

Thanks, all, for showing or describing the techniques and alternatives.

[jaftygas]

4 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

To the contrary.

It looks very good!

 

 

Steve

X2! Looks great.

[jaftygas]

I wounded what some panel liner, or wash would look like now?🤔

[atomicholiday]

Thanks guys.  To my eyes it actually looks better with the naked eye.  Many of the imperfections disappear without the magnification.

8 minutes ago, jaftygas said:

I wounded what some panel liner, or wash would look like now?🤔

I don’t see any reason this wouldn’t work.  The one I’m working on now has the crossed flags on the front fenders.  Could probably get the right look with some thinned paint dropped into the flags and then use the same technique to clean up any excess.

Last two pics.  Those double SS’s were a bit scary…  But they’re better than I expected them to look.  The other side didn’t come out as clean as I’d like.  Paint was a little thicker on that side and buried the details a little.  Lesson learned.

Now I’m really excited to get some clear on this bad boy and get it polished up and under glass!🤟

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, atomicholiday said:

Thanks guys.  To my eyes it actually looks better with the naked eye.  Many of the imperfections disappear without the magnification.

I don’t see any reason this wouldn’t work.  The one I’m working on now has the crossed flags on the front fenders.  Could probably get the right look with some thinned paint dropped into the flags and then use the same technique to clean up any excess.

Last two pics.  Those double SS’s were a bit scary…  But they’re better than I expected them to look.  The other side didn’t come out as clean as I’d like.  Paint was a little thicker on that side and buried the details a little.  Lesson learned.

Now I’m really excited to get some clear on this bad boy and get it polished up and under glass!🤟

 

Not only does it work, but in my view, it’s the absolute best way to detail badges!

 

 

 

 

Steve

[atomicholiday]

Do you add color before or after clear coat?  I was thinking of using acrylic, but that might not agree with the clear lacquer.

By the way Steve, that looks great.👍 

[jaftygas]

37 minutes ago, atomicholiday said:

Do you add color before or after clear coat?  I was thinking of using acrylic, but that might not agree with the clear lacquer.

By the way Steve, that looks great.👍 

Yes Steve it does look great. If you wanted to be more replicated of stock, you would use a semi gloss color after the clear, as the real badges are put on after the fact and are not typically gloss.

Edited September 26, 2023 by jaftygas

[peteski]

1 hour ago, jaftygas said:

Yes Steve it does look great. If you wanted to be more replicated of stock, you would use a semi gloss color after the clear, as the real badges are put on after the fact and are not typically gloss.

In my experience 1:1 badges/emblems/scripts  are  either metal or plastic that has been chromed to a smooth (glossy finish) Shiny chrome is by definition glossy - if it wasn't, it would look like satin-finish metal.  If there are colored areas in the badges, those are often reverse-painted pieces of clear acrylic (also glossy).  If the colors are painted directly on the badge, they are also rather glossy.

But either way, 1:25 badges are so small that it would be difficult to see if the colored areas in chrome badges have glossy or flat finish.

[jaftygas]

11 minutes ago, peteski said:

In my experience 1:1 badges/emblems/scripts  are  either metal or plastic that has been chromed to a smooth (glossy finish) Shiny chrome is by definition glossy - if it wasn't, it would look like satin-finish metal.  If there are colored areas in the badges, those are often reverse-painted pieces of clear acrylic (also glossy).  If the colors are painted directly on the badge, they are also rather glossy.

But either way, 1:25 badges are so small that it would be difficult to see if the colored areas in chrome badges have glossy or flat finish.

No they are not!

[peteski]

33 minutes ago, jaftygas said:

No they are not!

You must have excellent vision. Either way my earlier explanation still stands.

Edited September 27, 2023 by peteski

[jaftygas]

3 minutes ago, peteski said:

You must have excellent vision. Either way my earlier explanation still stands.

Your explanation stands. However, it’s not correct.

[peteski]

1 minute ago, jaftygas said:

Your explanation stands. However, it’s not correct.

I'm willing to learn. I replied basing my view on my experience.  Could you provide some examples of chromed badges (like the ones that are foiled in this thread) which are not shiny chrome, and which don't have glossy color fills?

[jaftygas]

2 minutes ago, peteski said:

I'm willing to learn. I replied basing my view on my experience.  Could you provide some examples of chromed badges (like the ones that are foiled in this thread) which are not shiny chrome, and which don't have glossy color fills?

Just about every single one of them. I had a 67 Galaxie in high school, and the badges were stamped aluminum, NOT polished, and never mind the red in the 390 badge was stone flat. I own a 70 Chevelle thous badges are pot metal chrome, with flat white and black TAMPO print in them. And as for the early 60s and before most of the stuff was cloisonné, and was glossy. We are talking about a 67 Chevelle that had nothing glossy on it except the paint. 

[peteski]

Fair enough Jeff.

My '77 T-BIrd had chromed pot metal scripts.  My '85 Caddy Eldorado has both plastic and pot metal chromed badges and scripts and any colored areas are actually reverse painted acrylic inserts.  So looks like there examples of different types of badges out there.

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

In either case fellas, it has no bearing on badges on a 1/25th scale model.
 

If anyone can tell what “sheen” the paint on badges of this size is, well, more power to them, but yeah.......not.

Even if you think you can tell in a close up photo, you can forget about it with the naked eye.

Not possible.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited September 27, 2023 by StevenGuthmiller

[jaftygas]

10 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

In either case fellas, it has no bearing on badges on a 1/25th scale model.
 

If anyone can tell what “sheen” the paint on badges of this size is, well, more power to them, but yeah.......not.

Even if you think you can tell in a close up photo, you can forget about it with the naked eye.

Not possible.

 

 

 

Steve

I’d agree. 😏

[jaftygas]

I was just giving some advice to somebody, and someone completely different from a peanut gallery chimes in and contradicts what I was saying. Which was in short form,”putting a semi gloss color after clear on a badge earlier than a 73 let’s say, would in fact have semi to matte finish on the colored portions of a badge anyway and he wouldn’t have to worry if the clear coat would adversely effect the color. 
that’s all I was saying, and yes I feel pretty stupid pissing this out with someone I don’t even know, but happy I don’t😁

Edited September 27, 2023 by jaftygas

[StevenGuthmiller]

One has to be remember that every car can be different as far as the techniques employed with things like badges.

For that matter, more than one system might be used on the same car.

As an example, some of the lettering on my 1:1 ‘69 Pontiac Grand Prix is chromed pot metal with painted background, but the badge on the hood is done in exactly the same configuration as the center caps on the wheels.

A chrome bezel with a chrome and paint insert with a clear plastic cover.

My recommendation is to find a system that works well for all of them and stick with that rather than trying to use different techniques to try to be in exact accordance with the items on the 1:1.

Sometimes it’s in your best interest to pick the best hill to die on. 😉

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[peteski]

33 minutes ago, jaftygas said:

I was just giving some advice to somebody, and someone completely different from a peanut gallery chimes in and contradicts what I was saying.

Joe, the original statement from the peanut gallery   was:

2 hours ago, peteski said:

But either way, 1:25 badges are so small that it would be difficult to see if the colored areas in chrome badges have glossy or flat finish.

And now you seem to agree with what Steve (and I) stated.  But whatever  . . .