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My middle name could be Butterfingers. So, I finally created this and it works fine because nearly any size of bottle fits.

Mine arrived yesterday via USPS in ZIP917XX near Los Angeles, CA. Looks good!

Could you re-post the photo links? Based on the comments this looks like something that I'd really like to see.

Cool! There are so many details to see in the photo link. I especially like "Big Daddy" stuffed into the Rotar. And who could't smile at seeing the overall diorama with a bubble top, of course. Thanks for building and showing this.

Thanks, all, for showing or describing the techniques and alternatives.

A hobby collector website asked me to write about my experiences. Here are my four blog posts: Part 1 https://blog.hobbydb.com/2023/08/20/diecast-days-with-zee-toys-designer-charles-hepperle/ Part 2 https://blog.hobbydb.com/2023/08/27/diecast-zee-toys-designer-charles-hepperle/ Part 3 https://blog.hobbydb.com/2023/09/03/diecast-days-with-zee-toys-designer-charles-hepperle-part-iii-of-iv/ Part 4 https://blog.hobbydb.com/2023/09/10/diecast-days-with-zee-toys-designer-charles-hepperle-part-iv-of-iv/

I use a bottom-feed airbrush for most painting and nearly always use an in-bottle filter: http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Acessories_7.asp It doesn't show the mesh size but it works fine for me with both enamel (thinned with lac thinner) and acrylic paint.

The sheet plastic tip by StephenGuthmiller above looks like a good idea to me. Here is how I cut a kit window. In addition to applying masking tape as suggested by others, I support the "glass" underneath with a wadded-up rag then tape everything to a piece of corrugated cardboard. That gives me one solid unit to handle without stressing the part. Use a fine-toothed razor saw. Work slowly and make light cuts with the saw.

I understand. Thank you for the explanation and offer of extras.

John was at the final GSL last week with some amazing builds...as always! His entries received several well-deserved awards. It is astounding to see his beautiful work in person.

Thank you, Tim, for restoring it back to the original design. It was a pleasure to see it and your other early builds at GSL last week.

Thanks! I entered it at GSL last week in the Group 23 category (start with an AMT '49 Ford and build it any way but without using parts from kits or aftermarket items that are "modern"). This category wasn't judged but instead was a popular vote and mine came in fourth place! There were about ten entries and the others were mostly traditional customs while one was a unique junk truck made with just the front and forward part of the cabin like a pickup cab.

Here's a video (not mine) from yesterday. Many more entries have arrived since it was shot.

Thanks all for the nice comments. Espo, yes it does have kind of a bumper car vibe like those ones at fairs. It can be a polarizing design, so comments from those who don't like some or all of it are free to speak up, too! I have a thick skin and welcome all viewpoints. I hadn't thought about a color name until you mentioned it. I does look sort of butterscotch in the photos that were taken outdoors on a cloudy day. In direct sunlight it's a purer yellow pearl color. The base coat is Polly S* Reefer Yellow and the color coat is AmeriCraft (or a similar name) Bright Yellow pearl. So, maybe I should call it Reefer Yellow Pearl -- just kidding. I'll just stick with Pearl Yellow.

One day I noticed that the cross section of the AMT '49 Ford cowl where it curves from horizontal to vertical on the side of the car happened to be the same as the curve on an AMT '36 Ford hood. Then I noticed that the front of the '36 hood, when seen from above, was nearly the same as a '39 Ford grille from the AMT '39-'40 sedan kit. So, I cut off the '49s front fenders and roof then pie-cut it and sectioned it before adding the hood and grille. The powertrain is a Jo-Han '70 Toronado engine/trans/diff with a Latham axial supercharger and intake from the AMT '65 Buick Riviera. The body paint is pearl yellow craft paint over flat yellow model railroad acrylic. The subtle fogging is a mixture of Tamiya clear yellow and clear red acrylics. Many coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear gloss made it smooth and shiny. Much of the bright metal on the engine and other parts is Molotow.

Thanks! I wasn't able to locate the TP-4 but I've just placed an order for the similar TP-3.

Does anyone have panel scribing advice for a body made of a variety of materials? For example, a custom with these: Kit styrene and Evergreen styrene with liquid cement CA glue Filler putty (two-part such as Bondo) When building customs I've found it impossible because of the differing hardness of the material, especially when the filler is feather-edged to the styrene in the to-be-scribed area.

I had that problem when painting during normal to very dry (low humidity) weather. Here is what worked for me: 1. Wash with a dishwashing soap and rinse with tap water. If you have hard water like I do, dip the part(s) in fresh distilled water to rinse off the hard water. 2. Let the part(s) air dry. I was using compressed air to speed up drying and get moisture out of tight areas on a body. That combination of low humidity and air blasts gave the body a static charge that attracted dust in what appeared to be a dust-free painting area. The purpose of rinsing with distilled water prevents minerals in the hard water from being deposited on the body when it dries.

You could buy it, make molds of the relevant parts of it that are useful to you then sell it, probably for the same or more than you paid. From an intellectual property standpoint this wouldn't be quite "kosher" but it would seem to be OK: 1) Since you would be buying this from someone other than the original producer (who got paid for his work by the original purchaser) you are not harming the original producer. 2) By paying a relatively high price for it you are supporting the value of this item in the marketplace. 3) By only copying parts of the original and not the entire body you are not diminishing the original producer's work nor are you making a "cheap copy" to sell and thus profit from the original producer's skill without compensating him. 4) By re-selling it later you are again supporting the value of this item in the marketplace even though it's the same item selling for a relatively high price.

This is a great idea and you're making a wonderful start on it. I think that the '57 body design is the best of the '50s Buicks for sleekness and making a two-door hardtop wagon is the best of all.

Wowee! This is a clever idea with excellent workmanship. I like your chassis engineering combined with a goofy body and the beginnings of a beautiful paint job. Keep up the good work.

Looking good! Can you tell us about any mods that you're making? Also, are there any parts fit problems? I'm thinking about combining this Lincoln kit with an AMT '41 Ford woody to make a custom.

Nice save in progress!

I've ordered from Spotlight for years and recommend them. If they say it's in stock, it's actually in stock. Shipping is fast. If you have a dog tell them and they'll include a free dog treat.