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Cool! Could you post pix of the hinge attachments to the underside of the body? The visible hinges look fantastic.

Nice! Making those slight changes in the body location and the radiator shell really paid off when viewing the finished model.

Man, you're nailing it!

205 arrived to me in So Cal today. I'm a fan of the '20s & '30s so it was nice to have Harry's final segment on that time period. I'll miss seeing his work in print. My 1/25 car modeling, though, is usually of the '60s. It was great to see the GSL coverage -- the first one that I have attended. Gregg, you've overcome so much adversity to bring this fine magazine to us. Thank you. I'm sure that things will only get better for you (and for us in each future issue).

Looks beautiful. That paint job is really nice.

Beautiful body color! And that interior color combo really works, too.

Gee, I can understand losing a tiny part on a shag carpet. But what explains where one 1/25 slick went to on my wood floor a week ago?

Thanks all, for the comments. I tried it again today with retarder added (halfway between the recommended high and low ratios). I sprayed both the airbrushed acrylic and later the TS-13 clear gloss much heavier than I would normally do but there was no improvement. So, I'll conclude that the problem is with the X-11 chrome silver. The chrome silver starts settling out within an hour of stirring it up so I guess that it just doesn't want to mix with the X-13 blue. I like airbrushing Tamiya acrylics but I won't spend any more time on this mix.

Thanks, Michael. That sounds reasonable. All the spoons were sprayed at about 65 degrees F in the shade of a garage with the door open. I don't know what the humidity was — maybe 50%. I was probably being too careful to avoid runs. Although I don't have Mr. Leveling thinner, I do have some Golden brand retarder that is made for increasing the working time of acrylic paints. I'll try that before looking for Mr. Leveling.

Thanks, Matt. Your suggestions were good and helped a little. It may have been the chrome silver that caused the dulling. Here are two more spoon tests with the following changes: 1) pour off some of the thinner (it's separated in the bottle), 2) up the airbrush pressure to 30 psi and 3) spray several heavier coats letting each flash dry between. The top one is just the airbrushed Tamiya mix over Tamiya White (L) primer. The bottom one is the same plus two heavy coats (about 40 min. apart) of Tamiya TS-13 from a spray can. That gloss looks OK for the engine and frame I'm planning to use it on. I'll pay more attention to cleanliness when painting the model parts.

I'm starting to use mixes of Tamiya acrylic paint for airbrushing. What went wrong here? The surface: styrene spoon wetsanded with 400 then sprayed with white Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (L). The mix: Tamiya water clean-up acrylic in bottles 1 part X-13 (medium-dark metallic blue) 3 parts X-11 (chrome silver) 1 part X-22 (clear gloss) X-20A thinner (eyeball ratio to dilute for airbrushing) The spray: Iwata Eclipse at 20 psi For comparison, there is a spoon test of gloss black at the left of the photo shot under the same conditions. It's Model Master 1747 diluted with Testors Airbrush Thinner. The Tamiya makes a nice satin finish but I want it to be 1961-era glossy on an engine and frame. I could clear coat it but I'd rather figure out how to make the mix glossy.

That brings to mind the old poem: Spring has sprung, Fall has fell, Summer's here, and it's hotter than.... It's only 94 degrees F and 28% where I'm at in southern California -- and that's too hot for my liking.

Here's one of the earliest posts in this thread. It only received one response at the time. It's worth bringing it back to the top for all to enjoy. I like the clean and simple appearance.

The revised front bumper/grille, the hood scoop and the taillights all look really good. Ford should have styled it that way!

Nice! The gold engine parts look especially good with that body color.

That looks good -- it's great to see something different yet believable. Instead of the looped radiator hose, you might want to just make block-off plates to cover the "openings."

Gee, I've only got two: 1. Pontiac hot rod -- Club de Mer body narrowed, shortened and simplified (already done) put on a mostly scratchbuilt hod rod chassis with an exposed Pontiac V8 and rear axle. It would be as if it was commissioned by Pontiac in the early '60s as a show car to appeal to the youth market. 2. '66 Riviera radical custom -- Imagine the four fenders cut off, the remaining body narrowed about a foot (already done), then the four fenders "floating" in their original positions. It would be sort of like a car from the '30s but much lower and sleeker.

I never would have thought that those two interior colors would look good together but they do! The way they complement the body color and the very nice assembly and detailing really make it all come together.

Here's another "vote" for the '59 Chevy headlights and tube grille — it really makes it look good as well as different. I think that the seats are the first ones that I've seen that have backs that are shorter than the cushions. Some headrests will help that out. Keep us posted.

Nice save! It's rare, and good, to see a mild custom build of a late '60s car.

Yes, that blue color really works on this car. That, the really clean build and the beautiful wood appearance all come together.

Wow! Having the passenger-only roll bar is the goofy kind of detail that I like. All that masking and multi-color paint looks great. ...and that half-vinyl top on the driver's side is also a fun detail. Keep up the good work.

Nice save! I think that you did just the right amount of improvement to make it look good while still preserving the original.

Thanks, all, for the positive comments and especially to Russell C for the inspiration* and for posting the award pix. Sorry for the late reply but I've just gotten home from GSL (my wife and I visited five national parks and Hoover Dam in the six days after the event in Salt Lake City). The award is from the Metroplex Car Modelers Association in the Dallas, TX area and was presented by member Len Woodruff. I couldn't find the criteria for the award, but it's essentially the club's choice of the GSL entry that was the most "out of this world." Thanks, guys! In searching for the criteria, I came across this advice on how to win at GSL: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/category/shows/ . It's by Jairus Watson from the July 2007 issue of Model Cars Magazine. He suggests "if you are looking for a relatively easy class win, then look to enter in something a little less populated... Other awards generally not concentrated on by other competitors are the Klingon Cruiser Award." Also, "it should be sharp and brightly colored in order to be noticed...", "Build something different and make it unique..." and "One way to get your car noticed is so obvious that many guys forget to do this, and that is to put your car on the edge of the table. YES, really!" By coincidence I did these things but this entry was not a serious attempt at building something that would be a winner in a real GSL class. *Actually, I had built the body in 2011. Later, learning of Russell's entries at GSL events I figured, hey, I already have a three-wheeled Ford so I'll just re-paint it yellow and build a chassis for it.

Here's an AMT 1960 Ford Starliner with a Revell Roth Beatnik Bandit bubble top and interior. To me it's sorta goofy and sorta interesting but I haven't made up my mind about it. It has some significant shortcomings in design and workmanship. Even though it's a "20 footer," we'll see if it attracts any attention at GSL XXVI. Feel free to make comments, positive, negative or otherwise. See the build thread at http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/121481-3-wheeled-ford-for-2017-gsl/ .