Createx

[TransAmMike]

6 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Course we know who has the exact match lol ! But this might be an option to play with .

I know Dave, I know????

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 11/15/2020 at 4:16 PM, Venom said:

Mike, look at the Wheel Arch Molding Foiling Tutorial... I believe it’s an Oldsmobile in the pics, and it is done in a particular gold.

 

On 11/15/2020 at 7:43 PM, TransAmMike said:

Josh, I checked out the "wheel arch moulding" tutorial. The gold on that car is the darker gold that model year. The GT40 gold is darn close though.

Not the same color.

The '68 in that thread is "Cinnamon Bronze".

 

 

 

Steve

[TransAmMike]

9 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Course we know who has the exact match lol ! But this might be an option to play with .

I know Dave, I know????

[TransAmMike]

Steve, "you are correct sir"!!

[TransAmMike]

Bit the bullet today and mixed up the Createx gold.  Used the  4012 and 4300 mixed I guess close to as recommended. Started with the #3 tip and wasn't getting a lot of flow so went to the #5 and it worked a lot better.  I'm not saying I didn't have some glitches that I had to deal with upon the first spraying (bubble, too heavy on high spots) but overall It came out I suppose OK.  The pictures were taken about 20 minutes after my last coat. I't did dry out a bit smoother after some time and I'm guessing clearing will make a difference too.  The hood will need to be redone, had some scratches from sanding that are way too obvious. 

Anyway, since you guys that have  been following and helping (thanks again by the way) know I am a real novice at air brushing I likely will stick to rattle cans or I may try spraying enamel like scale finishes or MCW. 

[Dave G.]

Lookin good in terms of lay down from here Mike ! What are you clear coating with ?

If you want to mess with airbrushing enamels try some tests on spoons using Testors enamels from the little square bottles mixed just short of 50/50 with hardware store lacquer thinner.I think you will be surprised at how well that goes down.

Edited November 18, 2020 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

Thanks Dave.  I'm open to suggestions for clear, I do have an old bottle of Future.  

And another question.......can/should the Createx I have sprayed be sanded to smooth out any  light roughness or small imperfections??

[Dave G.]

10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks Dave.  I'm open to suggestions for clear, I do have an old bottle of Future.  

And another question.......can/should the Createx I have sprayed be sanded to smooth out any  light roughness or small imperfections??

Both your questions are best answered in a spoon test before applying to your model ( will Future make me happy, can I sand this stuff).

With that said, in my own painting I use steel wool to smooth fuzzy areas of base color coats but I don't use Createx. And I use Future in tests to see how clear looks over a color but on models I use Tamiya X-22 or clear lacquer. There is just something about putting something on a car model that's meant to be a temporary floor finish that bugs me. But that's me, many people do it and are happy I guess. Somehow I have this vision that 5 years down the road the future starts peeling. I have no evidence of this but my imagination is vivid in this area.

Createx to my knowledge isn't known for it's good sandability qualities fwiw.

[Kit Basher]

11 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks Dave.  I'm open to suggestions for clear, I do have an old bottle of Future.  

And another question.......can/should the Createx I have sprayed be sanded to smooth out any  light roughness or small imperfections??

Auto Air can be dry sanded, I'm guessing Createx can too. If you sand it you will probably lose your pearl effect though. I sometimes sand the next to last coat, and then give one more light coat of paint. Even if you don't sand, you can clear coat and then polish the clear to a smooth finish. It looks good, but if you look closely you can kinda see the roughness of the paint under the clear, if that makes any sense.

Your paint job looks good to me. Unless it's more trouble than it's worth, don't give up on this paint. It looks like you're getting the hang of it.

[TransAmMike]

Didn't think about testing the sanding on a spoon duh!!  IMO, the finish I got is just slightly rough to the touch and there is 1 or 2 specks of "trash" that should probably be removed. I guess I'm more concerned about the specks.  As far as the clear, it sounds like you really like the Tamiya Dave.  My thing is I like to not have to order stuff on line unless I absolutely have to. Hobbylobby (my go to place) doesn't carry Tamiya.

So ModelMaster or maybe Duplicolor from auto part store.

[Dave G.]

It's always nice to walk into a store and go home with something lol. Sounds like you have a choice to make which store you go to.

[TransAmMike]

Sure is Dave, and especially with a discount LOL?

[Cornpatch]

I use Createx and Auto Air Paints all the time for several reasons, one being the many different colors they have. Another being that I can spray them in the basement without stinking up the whole house.

When they need thinning I use water and or windshield washer fluid and have never had any problem with them. I spray between  25 and 30 PSI with a #5 needle in a single action Paasche H Air brush. Which works just fine for me. Sometimes I use a brush where I have to or need to.

As far as sanding I never do it, I use a #0000 steel wool which leaves a nice smooth finish for the next coat. It is a little messier and you have to wash and dry the car after steel wooling it. but by not sanding I leave no possible scratches in the paint and no possibity of sanding off the emblems. Since there is no time limit on applying the next coat I have time to do this. If in a hurry you can dry the car and then dry the paint with a hair dryer, wife gets PO but that's normal.

For finishing I use either Createx Clear or  Rust-Oleum 2X Clear and find that these 2 work pretty darn good for me.

                                                                                                     Jeff

[Dave G.]

I've never used the 2X clear but have used the Rustoleum clear lacquer. And already mentioned scuffing with steel wool that I use in my wood working anyway. What substance is 2X clear anyway ( what's it's base, lacquer, acrylic etc.)

[Venom]

On 11/18/2020 at 6:15 PM, TransAmMike said:

Thanks Dave.  I'm open to suggestions for clear, I do have an old bottle of Future.  

And another question.......can/should the Createx I have sprayed be sanded to smooth out any  light roughness or small imperfections??

I looked at your pics of the gold painted car body Mike. They aren’t the most clear pics, but from what I CAN see, I’d say it’s time to spray the Createx clear over it. Maybe do three to four coats and then wet sand it... The “flecks” could probably be popped off (before you clear it) with the tip of a #11 blade, and then filled in with paint with a fine detail brush... But if you are dissatisfied with the way the paint looks now, just take it to the sink and spray it down with lots of Windex and clean it with a toothbrush and repaint it. It’s surprizingly easy as long as you haven’t cleared it yet. I did that twice on the Cobra I posted on this thread before I decided to clear it. It also helped me learn the paints properties better. My opinion with the Createx is that all the sanding should be done AFTER clear... If it’s so rough that it needs sanded before clear, then something needs to improve with the spraying method/technique. In my experience, dry sanding the paint causes little balls of paint to form and roll around under the paper, and even when that doesn’t happen it seems to dull the paint in the sanded area and look blemished.

[TransAmMike]

Thanks Josh, good suggestions. I actually don't think it's so bad it will need repainting. Really there is only 1 noticible speck and your're suggestion could work. So you think the Createx clear. 

 

 

[Cornpatch]

23 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I've never used the 2X clear but have used the Rustoleum clear lacquer. And already mentioned scuffing with steel wool that I use in my wood working anyway. What substance is 2X clear anyway ( what's it's base, lacquer, acrylic etc.)

2X clear is acrylic as are the 2X paints..

[TransAmMike]

To be clear (no pun intended LOL) , Rustoleum 2X clear??.      Also, the Createx being acrylic can actually be washed off with water and not affect the paint??

[Venom]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks Josh, good suggestions. I actually don't think it's so bad it will need repainting. Really there is only 1 noticible speck and your're suggestion could work. So you think the Createx clear. 

 

 

Use the clear you want... I just appreciate how workable the Createx clear is, but that’s just me

[Venom]

40 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

To be clear (no pun intended LOL) , Rustoleum 2X clear??.      Also, the Createx being acrylic can actually be washed off with water and not affect the paint??

The Createx (clear) cannot be washed off with water

[TransAmMike]

Ok, I was confused Josh, I thought you were saying you used steel wool between color coats. I guess you mean between clear coats.

[Venom]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Ok, I was confused Josh, I thought you were saying you used steel wool between color coats. I guess you mean between clear coats.

That was somebody else who said that.

[Dave G.]

3 hours ago, Cornpatch said:

2X clear is acrylic as are the 2X paints..

Thanks Jeff.

[TransAmMike]

Yep it was Jeff, but I still didn't get my answer about washing after steel wooling between color coats. At least I don't think so?

Sorry about all the questions?

[Venom]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Yep it was Jeff, but I still didn't get my answer about washing after steel wooling between color coats. At least I don't think so?

Sorry about all the questions?

I can’t help you there. I use sandpaper... and not on the paint, only on the clear