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Posted
15 hours ago, MarkJ said:

Anton, You seem like the perfect candidate for the brush painters society. Would you like a link to check it out?  Even if you have a booth setup, its so much easier to clean bristle brushes then it is to clean air brushes. Not to mention the fumes and having to wear protection when you paint or clean. We use acrylic paint which is non toxic.

Thanks! I also use acrylics for brush paint. Mostly Tamiya. Will have a look! Thanks! 

Posted
7 hours ago, Mattilacken said:

Thanks! I also use acrylics for brush paint. Mostly Tamiya. Will have a look! Thanks! 

Your welcome. You never know, you might like exclusive brush painting better. Tamiya is excellent paint, but part of this deal is to be able  to get the paint out of dropper bottles, like the way Vallejo sells it. You can mix the paint to get the exact shade you want . But there are always ways to get around it. It would just add another step in the process. I know Pierre uses a lot of Tamiya,  so I'm sure there would be no problem with the process. You may not need to mix the paint because you are happy with what Tamiya sells and you don't need an exact shade. Just give it a try, you might be amazed with the results.

Posted

Anton, some builders have developed techniques for brush painting Tamiya but I struggle with it on large surfaces. I use Tamiya only for small metallic type parts like exhaust headers, etc. Tamiya has a lot of great products but for large surfaces I have migrated to Vallejo. 

It's all about experimenting and developing a technique that works for you.

Posted

The model needed an early seventy's single plane intake manifold, so i'm trying to make one. Needs a lot more work.

 

 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Talk about detailed research! I should spend more time with intake manifolds. Definitely interested on how you will fab this one!

Thanks Pierre. Yes, I have a lot of adjusting to do on this one.

Posted

Need to add some more stuff, and modify the air cleaner and valve covers, and make some headers. I only have one ref picture of under hood, so alot will be a guess.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Hey Mark, have you finished and posted this car somewhere?

I need my fix man!

I had a family emergency a week ago Sunday that has kept me away from the build. But I returned to the engine build yesterday. Hopefully it won't be too much longer. Where's those final Fireball pictures?

Posted
1 minute ago, Pierre Rivard said:

It's taking shape. The part on left side of the accessory drive is a dry sump pump?

Yes Pierre, it's supposed to be. I don't have a view of the actual pump, so I just made one up from pictures of hopefully pumps from the early seventies. Once the headers are installed you won't be able to see much of it anyway. 

Posted

After I get the alternator completely mounted and make and install a fan, I can make the headers. I might try making them out of plastic tubing instead of solder. I have a pretty good idea what headers were used and have pretty good ref pictures of them. They are 2 into 1 and the those 2 into a collector. Kind of weird headers

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Posted

Hey there Mark.  Looking good so far Buddy, will be interested to see your header construction. I used solder on one set I built and aluminum wire on another. I think I preferred the aluminum wire.   Good luck.

Posted

Hopefully tomorrow. I want to make a right-side scale pattern for the right-side header. I also needed to add some more to the left side pattern. I will use folded over masking tape which essentially makes it 2-sided tape to hold the tubes together while I drop adhesive on the joints to bond all the tubes together. I think it should work. The adhesive won't stick to the tape.

Posted

I found a picture of the headers I wanted for this build, so I took the photo to my graphics program and turned each image of the header left and right profile shots, into 1/25 scale sized images. I then made a double-sided masking tape deal to put the image on one side and use the image as a pattern for making the pieces of the header. the sticky side of the masking tape holds the pieces together and then you hit the joints with the brush from the adhesive bottle. I'm using "the same stuff" adhesive. It's a clear liquid that bonds in about 20 seconds. You then wait 24 hours to get a permanent strong bond so you can work with the piece by trimming and sanding it and even filling it if need be. It's not perfect but the process works and the header will glue to the engine and I'm hoping look better than using solder. 

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Posted

Need to clean it up a bit and prime and paint it. The headers were white on the real car. I don't know if it's some kind of porcelain finish or what. Going to try to do the right header today. In the last picture, the header is not installed. it's just placed in position.

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Posted
1 hour ago, John Pol said:

Wow your scratchbuilding is amazing I also love scratchbuilding I been building models for 50 plus years and have a you tube channel

Sounds great John. Do you have a link to your you tube channel?

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