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Posted (edited)

The OP must  be Garry462 from Phantombullet!!  I think he's some one who got banned from here and is now having his kicks with the forum, he starts out with some stupid questions about painting, nevers responds to the answers giving to him, and sits back laughing at us....Just lock the thread and lets ALL ignore him..PLEASE

Edited by Painted Black
Posted
19 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Here is their verdict:

 

Hello,
 
After consulting with our Research & Development team and resident airbrush expert, we are able to provide the following information:
 
As far as the weight of the paints, each individual paint has a unique weight, depending on pigments used.  With that being said, our team does not feel that weight is key in the thinning process.  There is no fixed amount of thinner to be added to paint for airbrushing.   Factors such as type of airbrush and compressor are more influential than the paint.
 
A good starting place is 1/2 paint, 1/4 thinner and 1/4 gloss clear.  All thinner and paint settles too fast; the gloss clear keeps everything in suspension.
 
The goal is to achieve a milky like consistency, not runny or watery.
 
We hope you find this information helpful.  If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,
Jenn Gitter
Product Support Representative

 

This answer says it all. The weight of the paint is irrelevant. The consistency is the most important thing. It is a volume based process.

To determine what consistency rhat works best for you you must experiment.  Part of experimentation is failure. From that failure you gather data to find what works

 It is necessary to expend time and materials to gain the knowledge of what works. That process is not a waste of time and resources.  

Consider the fact that Edison failed numerous times before creating a viable light bulb. We'd still be using candles for lighting if he wasn't persistent

You have all the information you need and the next step is to spray some paint!!! Get back to us when you've done that. Nothing more to be said.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Painted Black said:

The OP must  be Garry462 from Phantombullet!!  I think he's some one who got banned from here and is now having his kicks with the forum, he starts out with some stupid questions about painting, nevers responds to the answers giving to him, and sits back laughing at us....Just lock the thread and lets ALL ignore him..PLEASE

Laughing at us? :lol:

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
  • Haha 1
Posted
20 hours ago, Smoke Wagon said:

Shoot, and here I was just shakin’ and sprayin’ Tamiya and Rustoleum rattle cans.

I guess if you got the free time to be the Walter White of painting then more power to you, but it’s kind of dumb to try and put a Rustoleum employee on blast for not having an exact answer to your somewhat ludicrous questions. 

Hey, that's not fair. Walter White actually made meth.

  • Haha 4
Posted
20 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

 Serious riflemen in military sniper training and in shooting matches, try to hit dimes consistently at 1,000 yards. 

Dude, it's not hitting a dime from a thousand yards. It's hitting a truck body from 8 inches away. Get over yourself, shoot some paint (badly, as ALL beginners do), decide this hobby isn't for you and move on with your life. I have never discouraged anyone from continuing in this hobby but you are temperamentally unsuited for it. 

  • Thanks 2
Posted
13 hours ago, Smoke Wagon said:

You... you madman! Have you any idea the the difference in weight between purple and black ink??? 

 

13 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

No. But I have e-mailed Newell Brands to request this information, and also exactly how many passes are required to get complete opaque coverage, and what weather conditions are most favourable. Ooh…darn it, I forgot to ask them if each pass should alternate directionally or be parallel?

All the while never touching pen to paper!

Posted

If Plumcrazy is still reading, here's Snake's E-Z Guide to Airbrushing and Great Paint

1. Basic body & body parts prep: Removal of molding lines, filling of sinkholes, re-scribing of door and trunk lines, fitting of hood and valences, etc: 6-10 hours. 

2. Wash body parts with soap & water, or rub down with household alcohol. Blow off dust. 

3. Prime with one coat of cheap Touch N Tone flat white, flat gray, or flat black primer, depending on top color. Inspect for dust boogers or rough spots; sand with #800 if necessary. Repeat with second coat if necessary. 

4. Thin Testor enamel ("little bottle" or Model Master) 50/50 with cheap generic lacquer thinner from Walmart or hardware store. Airbrush first coat at @ 25 psi, going for 95-98% coverage. 

5. Airbrush second coat going for 98% to just barely 100% coverage. Let dry, sand out dust boogers if necessary. 

6. Airbrush third coat, 100% coverage, just barely wet. 

7. Airbrush 4th, 5th, etc coats, each just a little wetter than the last. Repeat as necessary until good, uniform color coverage is obtained. 

8. Clearcoat if indicated. This is another whole discussion. 

9. Let dry fully (until model doesn't smell like paint anymore). Inspect. Sand out dust boogers with #1000, wet. If paint has significant "orange peel," color-sand entire model with #1200 or #1500, wet. 

10. Polish out paint with Wright's Silver Cream (available in house cleaning products section of Walmart) on old cotton or flannel shirt, or with felt strips. 

11. Wash model under warm running water with soap and toothbrush to remove polish from panel lines and other crannies. You'll almost certainly miss a couple, so this will have to be repeated, too. 

12. Drive on with construction and trim; finish model. Post pics here on the forum and bask in the praise. :D

Model on, everyone! B)

  • Like 1
Posted

Oops, I forget to mention: Immediately after every coat, clean airbrush by blasting pure lacquer thinner through it at 35-40 psi until it comes out clear for a few seconds. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, Painted Black said:

You forgot lucky 13 Snake, if all of the above fails, dunk it in the pond:lol:

You're right, and a great Step #13 it is! B):lol:

Posted
7 minutes ago, 4mula1fan said:

He also forgot to see how tacky the paint is between coats by touching with finger right in the middle of the roof. 

I don't do that, but if you just HAVE to, the roof is a great place to do it. If you screw up the roof but everything else is fine, you can always give the model a vinyl top! ;):lol:

Posted (edited)

In response to Snake's methodology, I'll post my own.

ACE-GARAGEGUY'S E-Z Guide to Great Paint

1) Learn to use rattlecans.

        The photos below show pretty much as-shot finishes. The orange car (Testors) has only very minor zit sanding and polishing.

DSCN5584.webp.ebf0683d8ef58915743f5b45b3dc6f83.webp

        The green hood is Duplicolor, as shot, with Duplicolor clear, as shot.

AUG12014Caddy_Challenger_50olds079_zps80fcb570.webp.71a1dd08c20e46b5459eebd721de17e1.webp

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted
13 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

In response to Snake's methodology, I'll post my own.

ACE-GARAGEGUY'S E-Z Guide to Great Paint

1) Learn to use rattlecans.

    

I agree.

Nothing wrong with a rattle can.

Too bad the OP has no interest in good advice.

 

Both of these were shot entirely with Duplicolor rattle cans, primer, paint and clear, and then polished.

 

image.jpeg.269777983b546b4e94579ebfb98c9340.jpeg

image.jpeg.8d95a484fb560cc2da9feef6d8f60504.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Posted
22 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Better yet, is there a good book on this hobby I can pick up and read? 

Une Saison en Enfer  is a good place to start . Another M80 of a read would be The Ticket That Exploded  , and I mean cover-to-cover ! No skipping-through the seemingly-irrelevant parts !  

Posted
4 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

Une Saison en Enfer  is a good place to start . Another M80 of a read would be The Ticket That Exploded  , and I mean cover-to-cover ! No skipping-through the seemingly-irrelevant parts !  

I didn't care for either. No girly pitchers.

  • Haha 2
Posted
8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Both of these were shot entirely with Duplicolor rattle cans, primer, paint and clear, and then polished.

Those bird droppings in the second photo are way out of scale. You should have made the car larger.

  • Haha 1
Posted
2 hours ago, jaymcminn said:

Hey, that's not fair. Walter White actually made meth.

Lol! 

“Jesse, we need to cook.”

”Gee I dunno Mr. White, you said that two months ago on that meth forum and you ain’t done jack, yo.”

  • Haha 2
Posted
1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

Those bird droppings in the second photo are way out of scale. You should have made the car larger.

That would have been too difficult.

But I could have made the bird smaller with my 12 gauge............with reloaded shells of course. -_-

 

 

 

Steve

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

Those bird droppings in the second photo are way out of scale. You should have made the car larger.

Sorry.

Double post.

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
  • Haha 1

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