conchan Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 (edited) I've read a few posts on paint stripping of older models to be repainted, but how do you deal with the glue bombs. The early kits you built where each part received its own tube to secure it to the next. How does one overcome that mess. Thanks for reading. Stay safe and enjoy! Edit: Can't spell. Edited November 13, 2021 by conchan
Snake45 Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 (edited) Small screwdrivers. Chisel-edged Xacto blades. Razor saws. Dremel with grinder tip. And, when all else fails, brute force! Edited November 13, 2021 by Snake45 3
NOBLNG Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 I have heard of soaking it in water and putting it in the freezer. Those little photo-etched razor saws make an almost invisible cut and come in different shapes to get into tight spots. Pins are your friend when reassembling. 1
Plowboy Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 A Dremel with a router bit and photo etch saw blades. On seats welded to the floor, I'll cut from the bottom up inside the seat until it comes loose. Then patch the floor. On dashboards, I cut away the tray on the outside and cut the dash loose with a photo etch blade.
yh70 Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 if it been put together with testors glue then i have had great luck redoing glue bomb removing the paint with Easy Off Oven Cleaner name brand yellow can. it also had attack the glue and broke loose the parts
Snake45 Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 56 minutes ago, Plowboy said: On seats welded to the floor, I'll cut from the bottom up inside the seat until it comes loose. Then patch the floor. Huh--never thought of that! I usually just pry on 'em with a screwdriver till they break loose. Gonna keep your idea in my hip pocket for possible need someday.
Oldcarfan27 Posted November 14, 2021 Posted November 14, 2021 Sometimes there is no other choice, one of the two parts is going to have to be sacrificed. If it's glass stuck to the roof, you might have to use a Dremel to carefully grind the glass away from the inside. Try to decide which part is irreplaceable and cut away the replaceable part. I have had to rebuild damaged parts where they broke. Point is, minimize the destruction, plan your course of action and go slowly. No sense destroying the whole car just because your in a hurry. I had a friend who did that with a Johan 70 Toronado. Destroyed the whole thing!
Snake45 Posted November 14, 2021 Posted November 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Oldcarfan27 said: Sometimes there is no other choice, one of the two parts is going to have to be sacrificed. If it's glass stuck to the roof, you might have to use a Dremel to carefully grind the glass away from the inside. Try to decide which part is irreplaceable and cut away the replaceable part. I've had to Dremel out the glass on a couple of glue bombs now. Got everything out in re-usable shape in both cases. Knock wood. The one that really stumped me was the hard top glued onto the roof of an AMT '65 Corvette roadster. I was able to get both front and rear glass out, but the top was glued to the windshield frame so strongly I'd have to sacrifice one or the other--and that top, which I definitely wanted to use, is almost as rare as the body, maybe even more so. Worse, the gluing had distorted the shape of the windshield frame in a couple places. I ended up puttying up the warped spots and carefully reshaping everything back to stock. Will have to repaint the body and top together. I need to get back on that one. I have an AMT original '69 Mustang body whose A-pillars won't turn loose of the windshield. But I've got a couple new tools and a couple new tricks since the last time I tried. Another one I need to get back to.
dimaxion Posted November 15, 2021 Posted November 15, 2021 I use the Freezer Method successfully for over 19 Years now . Place the stubborn part you want to make into pieces again . Tightly sealed enclosed in a baggie Place in the Freezer . Your Wife will complain . Reminding you to keep at it . Use only a steady firm pressure . Too much Ham Handing or BASHING will fracture Brittle Frozen Plastic . Your goal is to separate the Bonded joint . Not to make a Puzzle . BTW , I might have a Pristine '70 Tornodo I would be willing to trade off . It has taken me years to work this procedure on some projects . I am patient . My wife is a plus as a reminder for me to keep at it Once upon a time I tried this method on the remains of the MPC '32 Chevy Panel . Submerged in a Pool of Turpentine for 2 years . Other project this worked on ?? I remembered one day . Ahh .. oops . The Parts did not separate as carefully planned . It looks like an abandoned partial Body that had weight sitting on it for yeas , As the Structural Wood BODY Frame rotted away . The Sheet Metal Misshaped and warped itself accordingly from the pressure . A Great diorama PIECE . as of now l am unable to retrieve the R Fenders and floor board .. Thanx ..
Oldcarfan27 Posted November 15, 2021 Posted November 15, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, dimaxion said: BTW , I might have a Pristine '70 Tornodo I would be willing to trade off . PM sent Update - John can't send you any messages. PM me. Edited November 15, 2021 by Oldcarfan27
conchan Posted November 20, 2021 Author Posted November 20, 2021 Thanks for all the great tips. It is appreciated. stay safe and enjoy!
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