Old decals: How to deal with them?

[conchan]

I just picked up an old kit at a hobby shop that was closing down. The kit is a Tamiya KTM 250MX. Kit Number: 1451-1200. 
While I know the kit isn't a car kit, the problem I am having, other than bad eyesight and unsteady hands, is similar. When I tried to apply the decals they "crumbled" when I tried to slide them the paper backing onto the plastic. I soaked the decals for several minutes before trying to place them.
Am I doing something wrong? If yes, then how do I overcome this problem?

Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Stay safe and enjoy!

[cobraman]

I have that issue a time or two. What worked for me was to spray some clear on them first and then cut close to the image. I have some Testors spray for that as well but can not recall the name. Others may have better ideas for you.

[showrods]

5 hours ago, conchan said:

I just picked up an old kit at a hobby shop that was closing down. The kit is a Tamiya KTM 250MX. Kit Number: 1451-1200. 
While I know the kit isn't a car kit, the problem I am having, other than bad eyesight and unsteady hands, is similar. When I tried to apply the decals they "crumbled" when I tried to slide them the paper backing onto the plastic. I soaked the decals for several minutes before trying to place them.
Am I doing something wrong? If yes, then how do I overcome this problem?

Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Stay safe and enjoy!

You will need a nice glossy surface as a starter which can be accomplished with either a gloss paint or gloss varnish surface.  As for the decal preparation, try this as a starter.  There may be additional threads to which you can refer:  

 

[SfanGoch]

As Ray said, spray a light coat of some clear, like Krylon Clear, and cut close to the decal image. Use Solvaset to soften the decal to allow it to conform to the surface you're placing it on.

[conchan]

Thanks for the information. 
I'll try this on the next set of decals. Sadly these are already bits and pieces.

Tried to find Sovaset, but it is not available in Japan. 
Any other brands of similar products I could look for? 

Stay safe and enjoy!

[Exotics_Builder]

7 minutes ago, conchan said:

Thanks for the information. 
I'll try this on the next set of decals. Sadly these are already bits and pieces.

Tried to find Sovaset, but it is not available in Japan. 
Any other brands of similar products I could look for? 

Stay safe and enjoy!

Tamiya makes Decal solvent (regular and Strong) as well as a decal cement.  MIG makes a decal preset and solvent (1 and 2) as well.

    

 

 

[TooOld]

All decals have a clear lacquer coating or binder and as the decals age this coating degrades to a point where the decal disintegrates when dipped in water , the solution is to recoat the decals with a clear spray of some kind . A clear lacquer such as Testors works the best , but just about any clear will work . Be careful with acrylic clear sprays like Krylon . While they dry very flexible which is a good thing , the decals also end up being easily stretched . With small decals this isn't a problem but with larger decals the stretching will actually crack the ink as you apply the decal ruining your day .  Also be aware that decal solvents and setting solutions can dissolve Krylon if over used also dissolving the ink , so use them sparingly . Clear lacquers don't dissolve as easily and don't stretch .

Bottom line is you can use any spray clear but always try to test it first on your decals so there are no surprises .

[conchan]

Exotics_Builder: Thanks for the Tamiya product listings. I can easily get them here in Japan. 

TooOld: thanks for the explanation. It is appreciated. 

[W Humble]

I have decal sheets over sixty years old, and know I'll have problems if I ever attempt to use them.  Heck, I'm having Gofer sponsor decals fall apart that are less than ten!  The clear coat I know about, but just what is correct?  I'd guess lacquer, and I'll bet the decals are still tricky to use... I may do some experiments.  I have painted some nice 1:1 cars, and worked in a PPG store mixing, too.  I may try some ShopLine 660 clear; very good auto topcoater.  PS; I never trust rattle can paint, esp the hardware store brands, it's usually made to a price-- low!  Wick

[peteski]

I once restored old fractured decals by simply spraying couple of wet coats of lacquer thinner over the surface of the decal.  I waited for the thinner to evaporate, then sprayed next coat. It remelted all the cracked pieces back into solid film.  The decal was the one which is printed over a solid clear film (where each decal image has to be trimmed before application).

[W Humble]

Makes sense, Peteski; the hot lacquer thinner compatible with the clear film.  A lot of old -- and I mean old -- aircraft decal sheets seemed to be done with the solid clear which nec. trimming very carefully to use.  In the 'fifties when I built (or mis-built) every kind of model but cars, it was diff. for me, impatient builder without good tools, to manage that style!  I'll bet I still have a few in my dogeared stash.  I'm going to try your method, and the clear lac spray coat, and see how they turn out.  OC, any decal sheet I choose may or may not be the vulnerable kind, but with sheets six decades old...  !  The tips that recommend Krylon and other aerosol clears; maybe someone one with more expertise could try a controlled test on them, really scientifcally?  My next step will be to learn how to make new decal sheets, and some custom lettering.  Thank you for your considered opinon!!

[Straightliner59]

Micro SuperFilm. That is all! ?

[W Humble]

Okay, but what is best source for Micro SuperFilm?

[peteski]

I suspect that Daniel meant this:

Any brick&mortar hobby shop should carry it, and it is also available from online hobby shops, eBay, amazon or directly from Microscale.

As for creating your own waterslide decals, that is another can of worms.